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Old 01-04-2016, 03:02 AM   #1
zc06_kisstherain
 
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DIY: Phantom ESC Ver 3.0

I finally received my Phantom Electric Super Charger (ESC) Ver 3.0.
I waited about a year and 2 months.

I would like to thank ESC forum
also thanks for support from @fenton @Sojhinn @KoolBRZ, and @Shiv@Openflash for base tune!
@Sojhinn made great tutorial video for installing ESC and it helped me a lot.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJM3tMMX7JM"]Phantom 2.0 Install Partial Boost - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX-FYAelttg"]Phantom Electric Supercharger Full Install Video - YouTube[/ame]

I am also here to help future ESC owners would like to use picture based DIY

It's pretty straight forward installation even you do not have manual
If you cannot understand, i strongly suggest you to take kits to pro or someone can help install.




1. Open your hood and find your intake box, throttle inlet, and sound generator. you need to remove them. I previously installed Avo Inlet



2. Remove 2 bolts



3. Remove last bolt.



4. Loose 2 clamps and disconnect MAP sensor from intake box.
now you can remove stock intake



5. Loose these clamps as well. you wont see right clamp since this is for my Avo inlet.



6. use vice grip to loose that as well. also remove hose
now you can remove inlet



7. Remove 2 bolts



8. under battery tray, you can see "L" shaped plastic connector.
remove hoses from connector.
now pull connect to UPward to remove sound generator.



9. once you removed your intake,inlet, sound generator,
you'll see this empty space. yoo~hoo!



10. Intake Resonator needs to be removed. as you can see, it's rivet attached not bolt!!! which means, you need to drill them out.
this took me most of time from installing ESC.
take your time because you DO NOT want this to be broken!





11. Clean broken Rivet stuffs from boxes.




12. Cover your resonator hole with provided plugs from ESC kit



13. Remove your stock Battery



14. install new Battery Tray



15. Install 2 dump pack batteries and attach dump pack battery cable like picture above.
RED cable goes to positive and Black Cable goes to Negative on other dump pack battery.
I used electrical tape making sure they don't make any contact




16. Install Brass Bar on other side of Dump Pack batteries
also install starter battery





17. install cover and provided negative battery terminal cover.
also bolt down negative cable to starter battery



18. install controller's cable to main battery cables.
Red is positive and black is negative



19. install your controller bottom of fuse box.
there is a hole that you can attach controller.
it's little tight fit.



20. now install tubes to ESC
don't tight all the way yet
you need to make adjustments




21. install your intake and ESC
Make 90 degree from ESC and intake as well as it's straight to snail from throttle body. since Air is directly going into it you dont want any restriction.
also Re-install MAP sensor!!! most people forgot to reattach it to intake. (i did)
otherwise it will trigger CEL!




22. now take your both throttle switch and voltage meter to driver side
unclip plastic cover and make both wires go through and grab them from passenger side.
Tip: use Cloth hanger



23. Grab both wires again and pass through that sound generator hole under passenger side. now you can grab wires from engine room




24. Install your throttle switch there.
test your gas pedal to making sure you hear click which indicate
activation of ESC



25. Insert Voltage Meter fuse to RED CIRCLED location from fuse box.



26. install your voltage Meter where you prefer.
i choose same location as others did.



27. now connect your main battery cable to ESC Battery terminal



28. connect RED,BLACK, BLUE wires to ESC from Controller



29. Connect your throttle switch, Voltage Meter connectors to Controller.
you probably notice that Throttle switch wire is damm too short to reach controller but you can get it there. or you can extended wires from cut and re-soldier them.



30. connect Dump Pack Cable to Controller & double check your all connections as well as ZIP TIE!!
Now you finished installing your ESC but Do not start your engine yet.

31. Grab your OFT and upload ESC tune.
you can download tune here

32. once tune is complete uploading, Start your engine



33. Let it idle and see your voltage meter reading 28.x
mine shows 28.3

34. Go out Test Driving!! Feel the 4.5 - 5 psi Boost!!!!!!!!
don't forget to datalogging and make sure tune is safe.

Please feel free to ask or comment.

Last edited by zc06_kisstherain; 01-04-2016 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:19 AM   #2
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Do you have a link to more info on this kit? Pricing, weight, power gains, etc?
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
Do you have a link to more info on this kit? Pricing, weight, power gains, etc?
i guess you didnt read first page at all.
I am kind enough to provide link again
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39719

for pricing contact @fenton or Rob.
all info is available in that link
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain View Post
i guess you didnt read first page at all.
I am kind enough to provide link again
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39719

for pricing contact @fenton or Rob.
all info is available in that link
Thank you, your gracious benevolence. I must have missed it in my wretched peonism

EDIT: reread the only post on the page. No link was provided.

Last edited by Ashikabi; 01-04-2016 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
Thank you, your gracious benevolence. I must have missed it in my wretched peonism

EDIT: reread the only post on the page. No link was provided.
No.. There is a link you just cant find it. Because i hyper linked on "Esc forum"
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:54 PM   #6
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So I googled around and found the info I wanted. Looks like price without tune is around $1900. I'm not an expert on FI but it seems kinda high for how simple the setup is and the power you make. TQ numbers seen really good though. Do you feel it was worth it?
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
So I googled around and found the info I wanted. Looks like price without tune is around $1900. I'm not an expert on FI but it seems kinda high for how simple the setup is and the power you make. TQ numbers seen really good though. Do you feel it was worth it?
if you read that forum, many people are saying it's worth it.
It's really depends on what you're really looking for.
if you expect true F/I power, then you'll disappoint it. this case you want to go with Turbo or Supercharger like vortech.

all F/I requires tune so basically you cannot go without it.
$1900 for little F/I boost is really cheap comparing to spending $4,000+

also ESC is very easy to install/uninstall.
other F/I kits, you have to pay for install which it will cost you more money.
of course you have to pay again for uninstalling it as well.
unless you DIY F/I kit, everything will cost you money from installing, maintaining and tuning.
ESC kit runs with Open Flash Tablet which is open source and very supportive from members.
ECUtek is another option.

hope this helps
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
So I googled around and found the info I wanted. Looks like price without tune is around $1900. I'm not an expert on FI but it seems kinda high for how simple the setup is and the power you make. TQ numbers seen really good though. Do you feel it was worth it?
I read through most of the thread that was created by fenton (bored at work a few weeks back). From what my local tuner said back in 2013, "its more like a 50 shot of nitrous that you don't have to keep refilling after every use."

It's not meant to compete with full time FI options, but an entry level method of sorts. I put my name into the very long list of interested purchasers, but by the time its my turn, I may have lost desire to purchase. Its so cheap (comparatively) so who knows..
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by soulreapersteve View Post
I read through most of the thread that was created by fenton (bored at work a few weeks back). From what my local tuner said back in 2013, "its more like a 50 shot of nitrous that you don't have to keep refilling after every use."
That is true with the included WOT-activated switch. If you go with the procede controller (ramped up variable boost based on RPM and throttle position), it'll feel more like a bigger N/A engine.
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:24 PM   #10
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That is true with the included WOT-activated switch. If you go with the procede controller (ramped up variable boost based on RPM and throttle position), it'll feel more like a bigger N/A engine.
exactly!
I am going to play around with throttle switch and get use to it.
I might upgrade it to Procede controller and it costs about $500
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:12 PM   #11
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I used this DIY to install my own yesterday. Thanks for making it! I do have a suggestion for step 10 that will make removing the rivets easier for other people. The rivets are held in place by an "anchor" portion on the inside that you can grab with a needle nose pliers and bend left and right until it breaks off. Its thin aluminum/tin so a couple of wiggles and it cracks off allowing the rivet to slide out without any marks to the intake or small sandy debris from a dremil grinding attachment.

I also used 1/4" (ID) split loom to protect the super thin pedal switch/procede wire and arming switch wire in the engine bay as it snakes around to the ESC controller.

Lastly I had to trim some of the (large diameter) rubber tubing that goes from the air intake to ESC to get the system to line up better (but still not perfect). I needed to trim more off that tube but the small hose attachment (PCV line?) inside of it prevents the ESC from getting closer to the air intake box for perfect fitting.

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Old 01-24-2016, 07:43 PM   #12
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lol 1900$ for a little boost, this is hilarious. Yes I've read all about it, and I believe it works. Its just, so over priced. for another 2K plus a bit more, you have a full time real FI
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:59 PM   #13
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lol 1900$ for a little boost, this is hilarious. Yes I've read all about it, and I believe it works. Its just, so over priced. for another 2K plus a bit more, you have a full time real FI
Not even. Some of the cheaper kits are $3500
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Old 01-25-2016, 01:04 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Shinobu's Smile View Post
I used this DIY to install my own yesterday. Thanks for making it! I do have a suggestion for step 10 that will make removing the rivets easier for other people. The rivets are held in place by an "anchor" portion on the inside that you can grab with a needle nose pliers and bend left and right until it breaks off. Its thin aluminum/tin so a couple of wiggles and it cracks off allowing the rivet to slide out without any marks to the intake or small sandy debris from a dremil grinding attachment.

I also used 1/4" (ID) split loom to protect the super thin pedal switch/procede wire and arming switch wire in the engine bay as it snakes around to the ESC controller.

Lastly I had to trim some of the (large diameter) rubber tubing that goes from the air intake to ESC to get the system to line up better (but still not perfect). I needed to trim more off that tube but the small hose attachment (PCV line?) inside of it prevents the ESC from getting closer to the air intake box for perfect fitting.
I actually used vice grip to remove that rivet thingy as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorico View Post
lol 1900$ for a little boost, this is hilarious. Yes I've read all about it, and I believe it works. Its just, so over priced. for another 2K plus a bit more, you have a full time real FI
lol @ people spending $300 - $500 for front pipe or exhaust getting less than 5hp. I belive they're great but it's just so over priced. they can spend $3,000 for full time real FI.


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Not even. Some of the cheaper kits are $3500
maybe even more because you have to upgrade other stuffs that need to support that FI
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