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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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11-13-2014, 08:46 PM | #1 |
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Reccomendations for clutch set-up.
Hey guys,
To start, my car is NA and will stay for a while. For now I have OFH, OFT, full exhaust, and the GrimmSpeed intake. Unable to run E85 as it isn't available in the area I live and the car IS a DD. So as seeing besides getting a custom tune for my vehicle, I am coming to the end of the road on NA upgrades aside from tearing into the motor which I am not willing to do at this point in time. My plans were to make the car more enjoyable by taking slop out of the drive train and suspension. Already have subframe/diff/transmission/steering rack bushings etc. I'm going to order Perrin motor mounts and the Driveshaft Shop aluminum DS. I also want to put a lightened flywheel in the car however I don't want to pull the tranny out without throwing in a new clutch while I'm in there and I don't see any reason to throw in a new OEM clutch. I was planning on the Exedy Stg 2 clutch flywheel combo seeing as I have had good luck with Exedy on my previous cars, they are an OEM supplier and the price was on point. However with all of the unfortunate issues that other members have been having with this clutch I am going to steer far away from it. So any reccomendations or issues that any of you forsee in my plans. On another note, I don't really care about increased NVH. Driveability is of course more of a concern but I would rather have more instant and abrupt engagement over sluppy and numb. It is a DD, will see very, very little track time at the moment. It is all purely for enjoyment in my day to day commute and weekend adventures. |
11-13-2014, 08:53 PM | #2 |
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My buddy put a stage two clutch on his toyota cellica and said it was the biggest mistake he made, so be warned.
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11-13-2014, 09:21 PM | #3 |
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Thank you for the input but in what way was it a mistake? It doesn't have to be a segmented cermetallic or "stage 2" for that matter. The only reason I was looking at that one is because the clamp load isn't much higher than the stage 1 organic kit and the life would be a little longer plus it would be slightly more suited to FI down the road.
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11-13-2014, 09:24 PM | #4 | |
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11-13-2014, 09:33 PM | #5 |
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11-13-2014, 09:45 PM | #6 |
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3 puck and an 8lb "aluminium" flywheel would be fantastic! Don't forget the 8oz crank pulley
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11-13-2014, 09:58 PM | #7 |
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I have a competition clutch stage 5 (it's not that bad) it's a 4 puck good for 375tq and I am turboed. I figured it was worth the try for how cheap I picked it up for used. Keep in mind that aggressive grabbiness sounds great and to be honest it is great when I'm ragging on the car, but it sucks for the rest of my daily uses so make sure you keep that in mind. Unless you know for sure you'll be going FI don't get an overly aggressive clutch, it will be hell trying to daily it. People always say buy a clutch to suit your power levels and they're right. The more "upgraded" a clutch is the more it kinda sucks to drive haha. I enjoyed the stock clutch to be honest, really smooth engagement. It just didn't hold the torque down. Stronger clutches don't necessarily last longer either. The stage 1 would honestly probably have a longer life than the stage 2 just judging by materials and composition.
The motor mounts will be a nice final step in taking out the slop in the drivetrain. I have the cusco mounts (them almost solid ones that vibrate like crazy haha) and they really do feel great. Cabin noise is loud, I don't mind but my passengers do. |
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11-13-2014, 10:06 PM | #8 |
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11-13-2014, 10:18 PM | #9 | |
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I don't have first hand experience with companies like Southbend or Comp Clutch. So if any members are running lets say their organic clutch with lightened flywheel and you like it or hate it I just want to get some input. |
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11-13-2014, 10:30 PM | #10 |
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Im running the ACT round organic clutch with street-light flywheel (Race-light is like 10.5lbs, street-light is 12.5 I think) and I'm at 300whp, and I'm very happy with it.
Pedal pressure is a little harder, engagement is great, and it's held up to a few 3rd gear, full throttle, late engagements, and it's been rock solid, no slippage. I think it'll be good for my eventual 330-350whp as well. |
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11-13-2014, 10:39 PM | #11 | |
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11-13-2014, 11:05 PM | #12 |
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I'd go with Exedy if you plan to stay NA either stage 1 or 2 depending on your planned power levels. I'm running the stage 1 with a fidanza aluminum flywheel, grabs with much more urgency than the stock clutch, and makes the exact engagement point much easier to pin down as well. I DD my car and track it, so I can say that it works great on the track, and is light enough to make it easy to feather when going up an ice covered hill in the winter. I was concerned about "over clutching" my car since I live in an area that is currently a lot of stop and go due to construction, and the Exedy performs great, just as easy to work with as stock.
FT86 speedfactory carries them here: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/exed...h-kit-790.html Edit: For reference I'm running at near-as-makes-no-difference 200 WHP, and it seems to be coping with that power level just fine, six months in.
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Current mods: OFT Stage 2 (w/93 oct), OFH, Perrin Resonated catback, DSS Aluminum Driveshaft, Perrin drop-in filter, Avo silicone inlet, Mishimoto catch can, Grimmspeed MCB, Perrin crank pulley, Nameless overpipe/downpipe combo, DBA slotted rotors, Ferrodo brake pads, goodrich SS brake lines, DOT5 synthetic brake fluid.
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11-13-2014, 11:06 PM | #13 |
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Honestly, I doubt there's much difference between the streetlite and racelite. Both are considerably lighter than stock.
I've read reports of some clutches clattering, although an easy fix for that is to simply raise your idle. I also have read about warnings of running lightened components on both front and rear of the engine, something about beating up the bearings. The flywheel makes the bigger difference anyways. |
11-13-2014, 11:07 PM | #14 | |
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