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05-27-2020, 12:29 PM | #43 |
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If you guys want to (somewhat) protect the battery from discharge when the car is sitting; winter, at the airport, etc, you can swap a fuse in the fuse box that will kill all of the "always on" devices that cause parasitic draw. This is the same fuse that is moved during the PDI process. Car will still start, but keyless remote, A/C, radio and several other features do not work when this fuse location is swapped. See below for what fuse, move from position A to B when car is not being regularly used (A = empty, B = fused), to return the car to normal operation move fuse from position B to A, (A = fused, B = empty)
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05-27-2020, 02:43 PM | #44 | |
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05-30-2020, 03:12 AM | #46 |
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When my 2017 brz was just over a year old, I went on vacation in Asia for 3 months and was surprised that it fired up instantly when I came back. By the end of year 3, it was completely useless, I would be afraid to leave the ignition in the on position for anything more than a minute or two.
Good thing I was able to have Subaru upgrade me to their Subaru branded 550cca. I think the stock one was like 380cca? Smh |
05-31-2020, 11:31 AM | #47 | |
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But for now I'm ok with normal drain - it's my DD so normally not an issue, I'm just not working right now so it's been sitting. Just curious what's a "normal" parasitic drain so I know if I might need to hunt down a unique (likely Maestro) drain. |
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05-31-2020, 11:40 AM | #48 | |
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05-31-2020, 11:45 AM | #49 |
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Ok, so I'm right there at 470mA - thanks, I won't bother hunting fuses or pulling my radio out for the umpteenth time then.
I do have a trickle charger, but sounds like a good excuse for more regular pleasure drives. |
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05-31-2020, 12:27 PM | #50 |
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06-01-2020, 10:17 PM | #51 |
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500??
I think you mean 50 mA. When I was in automotive school 10 years ago, we learned 30 mA but that has gone up in today's vehicles. 50-60 mA today is okay. 500 mA is a problem https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...parasitic-draw https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...-battery-drain After you go in line between the battery and terminal though, you wake up some systems, did you wait some time after hooking up your meter for those systems to go back to sleep?
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06-01-2020, 11:08 PM | #52 |
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you're right. i believe i was originally told it was 100mA absolute max. i don't recall ever hearing a number lower than that before.
but some of it could have to do with the resolution accuracy of older test meters...
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06-01-2020, 11:16 PM | #53 | |
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I did not wait after putting the meter on, I'll try that. Regardless, 13 days is awfully fast to completely drain a battery, but I know a lot of folks seems to have issues with this car doing that. |
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06-05-2020, 03:34 PM | #54 |
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FWIW - haven't tried checking the parasitic draw again yet because in the middle of another experiment:
Day 1 - 12.65V (immediately after trickle charge top off) Day 2 - 12.48V Day 3 - 12.44V Day 4 - 12.41V Day 5 - 12.38V Day 6 - 12.36V Day 7 - 12.34V |
06-12-2020, 01:56 PM | #55 |
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This test day 13 down to 12.1V, started up just fine so not sure what happened last time. I'll keep the battery jumper in there in case but good to know a couple weeks shouldn't be a problem. Off to the track. :-D
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