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Old 05-27-2020, 12:29 PM   #43
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If you guys want to (somewhat) protect the battery from discharge when the car is sitting; winter, at the airport, etc, you can swap a fuse in the fuse box that will kill all of the "always on" devices that cause parasitic draw. This is the same fuse that is moved during the PDI process. Car will still start, but keyless remote, A/C, radio and several other features do not work when this fuse location is swapped. See below for what fuse, move from position A to B when car is not being regularly used (A = empty, B = fused), to return the car to normal operation move fuse from position B to A, (A = fused, B = empty)
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Old 05-27-2020, 02:43 PM   #44
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My '17 is showing 0.47a parasitic drain - curious what other people are seeing?


It sat for 13 days and was dead - even with a warranty replaced bigger battery last year. The Maestro RR/Pioneer setup I have had parasitic drain issues but supposedly wiring/firmware fixed that. (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131462)

I know that's a relatively high drain, but this is my first car that's always "looking" for a key fob etc so don't know what's normal parasitic drain in these.
Did you allow 20-30 minutes for all your computers to go to sleep when checking for the draw?
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Old 05-28-2020, 01:50 PM   #45
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Did you allow 20-30 minutes for all your computers to go to sleep when checking for the draw?
Yeah, it had been sitting for a couple days at that point.
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Old 05-30-2020, 03:12 AM   #46
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When my 2017 brz was just over a year old, I went on vacation in Asia for 3 months and was surprised that it fired up instantly when I came back. By the end of year 3, it was completely useless, I would be afraid to leave the ignition in the on position for anything more than a minute or two.

Good thing I was able to have Subaru upgrade me to their Subaru branded 550cca. I think the stock one was like 380cca? Smh
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:31 AM   #47
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If you guys want to (somewhat) protect the battery from discharge when the car is sitting; winter, at the airport, etc, you can swap a fuse in the fuse box that will kill all of the "always on" devices that cause parasitic draw.
Good information - thank you!


But for now I'm ok with normal drain - it's my DD so normally not an issue, I'm just not working right now so it's been sitting.


Just curious what's a "normal" parasitic drain so I know if I might need to hunt down a unique (likely Maestro) drain.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:40 AM   #48
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Good information - thank you!


But for now I'm ok with normal drain - it's my DD so normally not an issue, I'm just not working right now so it's been sitting.


Just curious what's a "normal" parasitic drain so I know if I might need to hunt down a unique (likely Maestro) drain.
usually no more than 500mA is considered typical.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:45 AM   #49
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usually no more than 500mA is considered typical.
Ok, so I'm right there at 470mA - thanks, I won't bother hunting fuses or pulling my radio out for the umpteenth time then.

I do have a trickle charger, but sounds like a good excuse for more regular pleasure drives.
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Old 05-31-2020, 12:27 PM   #50
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I do have a trickle charger, but sounds like a good excuse for more regular pleasure drives.
This is what I do. Itís the best way, get out on some mountain curvy roads.
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Old Yesterday, 10:17 PM   #51
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usually no more than 500mA is considered typical.
500??

I think you mean 50 mA.

When I was in automotive school 10 years ago, we learned 30 mA but that has gone up in today's vehicles. 50-60 mA today is okay. 500 mA is a problem

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...parasitic-draw

https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...-battery-drain

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Yeah, it had been sitting for a couple days at that point.
After you go in line between the battery and terminal though, you wake up some systems, did you wait some time after hooking up your meter for those systems to go back to sleep?
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Old Yesterday, 11:08 PM   #52
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you're right. i believe i was originally told it was 100mA absolute max. i don't recall ever hearing a number lower than that before.

but some of it could have to do with the resolution accuracy of older test meters...
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Old Yesterday, 11:16 PM   #53
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500??

I think you mean 50 mA.

When I was in automotive school 10 years ago, we learned 30 mA but that has gone up in today's vehicles. 50-60 mA today is okay. 500 mA is a problem

After you go in line between the battery and terminal though, you wake up some systems, did you wait some time after hooking up your meter for those systems to go back to sleep?
50 sounds more reasonable, but I've never tried a newer car "listening" for key fob etc.

I did not wait after putting the meter on, I'll try that. Regardless, 13 days is awfully fast to completely drain a battery, but I know a lot of folks seems to have issues with this car doing that.
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