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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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04-03-2018, 10:54 PM | #1 |
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Starting issue after building engine
Hello so like tittle states I am having an issue on start up.it starts and then dies and smells really rich
I have full blown kit with with GTX2867R id1000 injectors. Block is built with JE 10.5:1 86.5mm pistons Manley turbotuff rods, kings bearing both main and rod and cosmetic head gaskets and arp hardware I was having an issue where my fuel pressure was dropping after priming pump I then replaced the pressure regulator and it stopped. After I was having issue where car would start then die. Took off manifold and found one cylinder pretty much drowned in fuel. Took all 8 injectors to be flow tested and service and found one of the direct injectors was staying stuck open. Forward to today’s mission I got a new one and had it flow tested even tho it’s a new injector I don’t wanna be blindsided by it. All new seals on the direct injectors and the port ones. I put manifold back on and went to start it and it starts then dies, honestly it seems like if engine is running on 2 cylinders. As for common problems I rules out injector mishaps by servicing and flow testing them. I’ve seen that the DI module needs a good ground and being that mine isn’t on the factory bracket it’s just connected with one bolt on the bottom that normally holds the module and then I ran bolt and nut through the top hole and ran that to the ground on the passengers side strut tower. The plugs are new. The car sat for 6 months and the gas was bad so I drained tank and put new gas and I replaced the plugs yet again Incase bad gas fouled them out. I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code Tuner is James Martin tuning on ecutek. Will post videos of what the car is doing tomorrow Stumped doesn’t begin to describe what I am right now. I can normally fault trace and figure my shit out on my own but I am all out of actions now, so please any and all help is highly appreciated!!!! |
04-04-2018, 12:42 AM | #2 | |
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Well let’s take a crack at this... Coil packs? Use a screwdriver with a wood/plastic handle to check arc (you probably know that trick) Intake cam angle? Not sure if ECU would pick up on that, my experience lies with classic chevy:/ Smelling rich from engine bay, or from tailpipe? Could be intake manifold not properly torqued Or perhaps maybe... Compression test each cylinder? Oo! Check the thermostat, if those get stuck open they’ll make any car smell like a 90’s hilux. Lack of comp could contribute to issues with startup. It seems like the port and di worked well in the case of high comp pistons, not sure how much of a difference that could make. Adding in the factor of (thick?) head gaskets your compression is lowered further but not by much... compression really does help with the heating of the a/f mixture... I’ll think of other shit later, in the meantime I hope maybe one of these yields improvement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04-04-2018, 07:36 AM | #3 |
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I compression tested all cylinders already and I have 165-178 all around as for the spark test it’s Ching of hard to get a screw driver in there and actually be able to see it but I’ll give it a try. Thermostat is new and manifold is torqued down and has new gaskets
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04-04-2018, 08:51 AM | #4 |
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I would focus there. If you've ever forgotten to plug it in and then start the car it stumbles really bad and if you don't aggressively help it run with lots of throttle it will die. It also smells like you dumped a gallon of gas on the ground. You proved it isn't the actual sensor but maybe the connector/wiring got damaged during the engine pull.
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04-04-2018, 09:18 AM | #5 | |
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Will check wiring and connectors for bent pins will update in a few Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04-05-2018, 12:34 AM | #6 |
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Recheck the big main harness. I was working on something that required me to unplug the main harness. When I plugged it back in and started the car, I got all kinds of error codes. Anyways, there was some flashing left on the plugs (from manufacturing molding process) that prevented the main harness from plugging in 100% (even though it was plugged and clipped in). I bent the flashing back and re-plugged in the harness. All the codes/issues went away. The flashing looks like a paper thin strip of plastic sticking out about 1~2mm along the edge of the front of the male plug. Anyways, it may or may not help. Just thought I'd mention it. I just remember the mass air flow sensor being one of the codes.
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04-05-2018, 01:46 AM | #7 |
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Bad coil packs will throw a code start with your fuel system pressure and then work your way to wiring and sensors. you also should have your tuner look at the tune maybe a corrupted file try a reflash
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04-05-2018, 07:47 AM | #8 | |
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Not to worry any and all help is extremely appreciated will double check this now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04-05-2018, 08:01 AM | #9 | |
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I was thinking it was a bad coil as I pulled my plugs and I cylinders 1 and 4 were black and sooty like if they were running and the other were coated in fuel for the most part and not sooty As for the fuel system pressure it is fixed already high side and low side pressure are good but still no start. I checked all the grounds and made sure they were good and as for the fuel pump according to Toyota service manual my pump is within spec along with my fuel rail pressure sensor I checked maf connector and checked harness routing no pinching but I will continue to check back till I get to the big connector Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04-05-2018, 09:55 AM | #10 | |
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04-05-2018, 10:27 AM | #11 |
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This is a really dumb question but it would also foul your plugs out and make it sound like it's only running on 2 cylinders. But.... you don't have your spark plug wires reversed on half of your engine? where you accidentally have cylinder 1 firing a cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 firing a cylinder 1 by chance do you? I bring this up because when I built my Hayabusa motor for my Turbo I somehow and I don't know how I did it but I swapped cylinder 1 and 2 spark plug connectors that went to the coil packs and it sounded like f*** and didn't run right. Your spark plugs just brought back memories. I slap the s*** out of myself when I found what I did.
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04-05-2018, 10:52 AM | #12 | |
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I have a steady 55psi on both port and high side before being compressed in high pressure pump Picture is after it sat over night and I’ve checked maf along with intercooler piping Keep these coming tho cause as you go I go triple checking just Incase |
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04-05-2018, 10:54 AM | #13 | |
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Not long enough to be reversed and I have one on each head not working but I’ll give it a look see and check it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04-05-2018, 10:55 AM | #14 |
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After discovering that you had the injector problem while flowtesting the injectors did you change your plugs to new plugs?
Also I am sure your tuner has already but make sure he has checked the flow tables and that there are no issues there from going from stock to the ID1000 injectors. |
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