follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Forced Induction

Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-03-2018, 10:54 PM   #1
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Starting issue after building engine

Hello so like tittle states I am having an issue on start up.it starts and then dies and smells really rich

I have full blown kit with with GTX2867R id1000 injectors. Block is built with JE 10.5:1 86.5mm pistons Manley turbotuff rods, kings bearing both main and rod and cosmetic head gaskets and arp hardware

I was having an issue where my fuel pressure was dropping after priming pump I then replaced the pressure regulator and it stopped. After I was having issue where car would start then die. Took off manifold and found one cylinder pretty much drowned in fuel. Took all 8 injectors to be flow tested and service and found one of the direct injectors was staying stuck open.

Forward to today’s mission I got a new one and had it flow tested even tho it’s a new injector I don’t wanna be blindsided by it. All new seals on the direct injectors and the port ones. I put manifold back on and went to start it and it starts then dies, honestly it seems like if engine is running on 2 cylinders.

As for common problems I rules out injector mishaps by servicing and flow testing them. I’ve seen that the DI module needs a good ground and being that mine isn’t on the factory bracket it’s just connected with one bolt on the bottom that normally holds the module and then I ran bolt and nut through the top hole and ran that to the ground on the passengers side strut tower. The plugs are new. The car sat for 6 months and the gas was bad so I drained tank and put new gas and I replaced the plugs yet again Incase bad gas fouled them out.

I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code

Tuner is James Martin tuning on ecutek.

Will post videos of what the car is doing tomorrow

Stumped doesn’t begin to describe what I am right now. I can normally fault trace and figure my shit out on my own but I am all out of actions now, so please any and all help is highly appreciated!!!!
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2018, 12:42 AM   #2
idkwhatimdoing
Senior Member
 
idkwhatimdoing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Drives: 2015 Scion FR-S 1968 Camaro BB402
Location: Thousand Oaks, California
Posts: 109
Thanks: 41
Thanked 45 Times in 24 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid94 View Post
Hello so like tittle states I am having an issue on start up.it starts and then dies and smells really rich



I have full blown kit with with GTX2867R id1000 injectors. Block is built with JE 10.5:1 86.5mm pistons Manley turbotuff rods, kings bearing both main and rod and cosmetic head gaskets and arp hardware



I was having an issue where my fuel pressure was dropping after priming pump I then replaced the pressure regulator and it stopped. After I was having issue where car would start then die. Took off manifold and found one cylinder pretty much drowned in fuel. Took all 8 injectors to be flow tested and service and found one of the direct injectors was staying stuck open.



Forward to today’s mission I got a new one and had it flow tested even tho it’s a new injector I don’t wanna be blindsided by it. All new seals on the direct injectors and the port ones. I put manifold back on and went to start it and it starts then dies, honestly it seems like if engine is running on 2 cylinders.



As for common problems I rules out injector mishaps by servicing and flow testing them. I’ve seen that the DI module needs a good ground and being that mine isn’t on the factory bracket it’s just connected with one bolt on the bottom that normally holds the module and then I ran bolt and nut through the top hole and ran that to the ground on the passengers side strut tower. The plugs are new. The car sat for 6 months and the gas was bad so I drained tank and put new gas and I replaced the plugs yet again Incase bad gas fouled them out.



I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code



Tuner is James Martin tuning on ecutek.



Will post videos of what the car is doing tomorrow



Stumped doesn’t begin to describe what I am right now. I can normally fault trace and figure my shit out on my own but I am all out of actions now, so please any and all help is highly appreciated!!!!


Well let’s take a crack at this...
Coil packs? Use a screwdriver with a wood/plastic handle to check arc (you probably know that trick)
Intake cam angle? Not sure if ECU would pick up on that, my experience lies with classic chevy:/
Smelling rich from engine bay, or from tailpipe? Could be intake manifold not properly torqued

Or perhaps maybe...
Compression test each cylinder?
Oo! Check the thermostat, if those get stuck open they’ll make any car smell like a 90’s hilux.
Lack of comp could contribute to issues with startup. It seems like the port and di worked well in the case of high comp pistons, not sure how much of a difference that could make. Adding in the factor of (thick?) head gaskets your compression is lowered further but not by much... compression really does help with the heating of the a/f mixture...
I’ll think of other shit later, in the meantime I hope maybe one of these yields improvement



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
idkwhatimdoing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2018, 07:36 AM   #3
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I compression tested all cylinders already and I have 165-178 all around as for the spark test it’s Ching of hard to get a screw driver in there and actually be able to see it but I’ll give it a try. Thermostat is new and manifold is torqued down and has new gaskets
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2018, 08:51 AM   #4
ermax
Senior Member
 
ermax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Drives: 2022 BRZ Limited Silver
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,532
Thanks: 882
Thanked 2,045 Times in 1,188 Posts
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid94 View Post
I constantly have a mass air flow “no flow” code that doesn’t go away. I replaced with a known good one from friends car and mine worked fine on his but his didn’t get rid of my code
I would focus there. If you've ever forgotten to plug it in and then start the car it stumbles really bad and if you don't aggressively help it run with lots of throttle it will die. It also smells like you dumped a gallon of gas on the ground. You proved it isn't the actual sensor but maybe the connector/wiring got damaged during the engine pull.
ermax is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ermax For This Useful Post:
Ultramaroon (04-04-2018)
Old 04-04-2018, 09:18 AM   #5
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermax View Post
I would focus there. If you've ever forgotten to plug it in and then start the car it stumbles really bad and if you don't aggressively help it run with lots of throttle it will die. It also smells like you dumped a gallon of gas on the ground. You proved it isn't the actual sensor but maybe the connector/wiring got damaged during the engine pull.


Will check wiring and connectors for bent pins will update in a few



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 12:34 AM   #6
JimmyMac
Senior Member
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 2013 FR-S, 2016 Miata Club
Location: NC
Posts: 785
Thanks: 183
Thanked 258 Times in 171 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Recheck the big main harness. I was working on something that required me to unplug the main harness. When I plugged it back in and started the car, I got all kinds of error codes. Anyways, there was some flashing left on the plugs (from manufacturing molding process) that prevented the main harness from plugging in 100% (even though it was plugged and clipped in). I bent the flashing back and re-plugged in the harness. All the codes/issues went away. The flashing looks like a paper thin strip of plastic sticking out about 1~2mm along the edge of the front of the male plug. Anyways, it may or may not help. Just thought I'd mention it. I just remember the mass air flow sensor being one of the codes.
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JimmyMac For This Useful Post:
sid94 (04-05-2018)
Old 04-05-2018, 01:46 AM   #7
FRS Justin
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FRS
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 994
Thanks: 693
Thanked 695 Times in 417 Posts
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Bad coil packs will throw a code start with your fuel system pressure and then work your way to wiring and sensors. you also should have your tuner look at the tune maybe a corrupted file try a reflash
__________________
Instagram FT86PROJECT9S
Facebook FT86PROJECT9S
710whp
FRS Justin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 07:47 AM   #8
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
Recheck the big main harness. I was working on something that required me to unplug the main harness. When I plugged it back in and started the car, I got all kinds of error codes. Anyways, there was some flashing left on the plugs (from manufacturing molding process) that prevented the main harness from plugging in 100% (even though it was plugged and clipped in). I bent the flashing back and re-plugged in the harness. All the codes/issues went away. The flashing looks like a paper thin strip of plastic sticking out about 1~2mm along the edge of the front of the male plug. Anyways, it may or may not help. Just thought I'd mention it. I just remember the mass air flow sensor being one of the codes.


Not to worry any and all help is extremely appreciated will double check this now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 08:01 AM   #9
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRS Justin View Post
Bad coil packs will throw a code start with your fuel system pressure and then work your way to wiring and sensors. you also should have your tuner look at the tune maybe a corrupted file try a reflash


I was thinking it was a bad coil as I pulled my plugs and I cylinders 1 and 4 were black and sooty like if they were running and the other were coated in fuel for the most part and not sooty



As for the fuel system pressure it is fixed already high side and low side pressure are good but still no start. I checked all the grounds and made sure they were good and as for the fuel pump according to Toyota service manual my pump is within spec along with my fuel rail pressure sensor

I checked maf connector and checked harness routing no pinching but I will continue to check back till I get to the big connector


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 09:55 AM   #10
FRS Justin
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FRS
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 994
Thanks: 693
Thanked 695 Times in 417 Posts
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sid94 View Post
I was thinking it was a bad coil as I pulled my plugs and I cylinders 1 and 4 were black and sooty like if they were running and the other were coated in fuel for the most part and not sooty



As for the fuel system pressure it is fixed already high side and low side pressure are good but still no start. I checked all the grounds and made sure they were good and as for the fuel pump according to Toyota service manual my pump is within spec along with my fuel rail pressure sensor

I checked maf connector and checked harness routing no pinching but I will continue to check back till I get to the big connector


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The soot on the plugs took some run time so I would make sure you have 51 to 54 psi of fuel pressure and look for a piece of grass or something messing with the maf also find a tune that is known to work maybe a base tune before revisions that AFR is out of control
__________________
Instagram FT86PROJECT9S
Facebook FT86PROJECT9S
710whp
FRS Justin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 10:27 AM   #11
GsxrMe
Senior Member
 
GsxrMe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Drives: Late 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 557
Thanks: 20
Thanked 183 Times in 139 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
This is a really dumb question but it would also foul your plugs out and make it sound like it's only running on 2 cylinders. But.... you don't have your spark plug wires reversed on half of your engine? where you accidentally have cylinder 1 firing a cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 firing a cylinder 1 by chance do you? I bring this up because when I built my Hayabusa motor for my Turbo I somehow and I don't know how I did it but I swapped cylinder 1 and 2 spark plug connectors that went to the coil packs and it sounded like f*** and didn't run right. Your spark plugs just brought back memories. I slap the s*** out of myself when I found what I did.
__________________
2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe
GsxrMe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 10:52 AM   #12
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRS Justin View Post
The soot on the plugs took some run time so I would make sure you have 51 to 54 psi of fuel pressure and look for a piece of grass or something messing with the maf also find a tune that is known to work maybe a base tune before revisions that AFR is out of control


I have a steady 55psi on both port and high side before being compressed in high pressure pump



Picture is after it sat over night and I’ve checked maf along with intercooler piping

Keep these coming tho cause as you go I go triple checking just Incase
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 10:54 AM   #13
sid94
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2013 frs
Location: Miami fl
Posts: 206
Thanks: 38
Thanked 49 Times in 38 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrMe View Post
This is a really dumb question but it would also foul your plugs out and make it sound like it's only running on 2 cylinders. But.... you don't have your spark plug wires reversed on half of your engine? where you accidentally have cylinder 1 firing a cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 firing a cylinder 1 by chance do you? I bring this up because when I built my Hayabusa motor for my Turbo I somehow and I don't know how I did it but I swapped cylinder 1 and 2 spark plug connectors that went to the coil packs and it sounded like f*** and didn't run right. Your spark plugs just brought back memories. I slap the s*** out of myself when I found what I did.

Not long enough to be reversed and I have one on each head not working but I’ll give it a look see and check it



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sid94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2018, 10:55 AM   #14
jasonojordan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Drives: 2013 satin white brz limited
Location: Cottage Grove MN
Posts: 1,049
Thanks: 162
Thanked 511 Times in 326 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
After discovering that you had the injector problem while flowtesting the injectors did you change your plugs to new plugs?

Also I am sure your tuner has already but make sure he has checked the flow tables and that there are no issues there from going from stock to the ID1000 injectors.
jasonojordan is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Building the engine for 400+hp Dogster70 Forced Induction 20 07-16-2017 09:59 AM
New motor - starting issue protpibe Engine Swaps 24 06-01-2015 12:01 AM
Starting issue? winsometang Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB 7 11-26-2014 05:25 PM
Starting issue Hawaiian Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum 33 08-15-2013 07:40 AM
Van starting issue-need advice. LivingLegend Off-Topic Lounge [WARNING: NO POLITICS] 3 01-15-2013 10:48 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.