Help With Brake Job Shopping List

[Sapphireho]

I've had braided lines on several cars and never had a problem. You have to buy the good ones.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Ok, first of all, there is quite a difference between doing a fluid change vs. Full brake job.

Do your brakes need changing?

I like the DS2500. If you go that route, sounds like they would be plenty good for the level you are at.

For me, if I was doing full brake job I would have rotors turned or replaced.

Well, I did say "brake job shopping list" in the title.

Pads, fluid, rotors, lines, lube? Did I miss anything?

[Wangspeed]

Ferodo DS2500 perform well for street/autox, but they dust like mad. Real pain in the butt in that category.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Spuds

That's interesting, I have never heard of that. All the bushings I can see are still in good shape though so I think I'll be fine for now. Been slowly going around with poly bushings anyway.

he means the brake pin sliders. not the suspension bushings.

makes sense, as i've had previous cars where i didn't replace the sliders/boots, just added grease, and weeks later they'd seize up...

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Spuds

That's interesting, I have never heard of that. All the bushings I can see are still in good shape though so I think I'll be fine for now. Been slowly going around with poly bushings anyway.

No no there is a bushing on the slide pin itself

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134192

here is what I ordered from my local toyota dealer

SU00300576 Slide Pin Bush X4

088783010 Rubber-G 100G X1

Service manual if you need it. Will also back up that toyota says to change them
https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Por..._rm_index.html

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Toyota service manual calls for new rubber bushings all around with each pad change. I picked them all up myself along with the fancy Toyota grease when I did my brake job.

Let me know if you need the part numbers I can find my invoice for you when I get home.

Could you clarify what rubber bushing to which the Service manual refers? Did they mean the slide pin "boots"?

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Could you clarify what rubber bushing to which the Service manual refers? Did they mean the slide pin "boots"?

I posted all the details right above your comment

[Spuds]

Thanks for the responses all.

On the pad front I think I'm going to stick with the ds2500 (is that a pun?).

On the state of the current brakes, the rotors aren't too worn, down 0.2 mm from standard all around, but they do have grooves forming. The pads are at about 4-5mm from a visual inspection, which is 25-30% of original thickness. So the brakes don't absolutely need to be changed right this moment, I could just do fluid (which the car needs badly). Still going to change them. Going with new rotors for now, I'll still look into getting the originals resurfaced.

'Final' list:
-RBF600 - 1L
-DS2500 front and rear
-OEM rotors front and rear
-OEM brake lines front and rear
-Brake system lube - whatever parts store has I guess. I swear I had some...
-Slide pin sleeves - so weird

Note: Slide pin boots look good to me without disassembly, if I do find a bad one during the job, the Toyota dealership can usually get stuff next day if they don't have it on hand.

[autoracer86]

Castrol srf race would last much longer than rbf600. Also those slide pin bushings or whatever you want to call them require a certain type of grease. At least that is what I saw online lol. I haven’t had any issue with the grease I got from Toyota so I would recommend that over something random you find at the auto parts store

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

If you are going to do HPDE on 200tw tires, you might want to consider a more dedicated track pad for those events.

Agree.

Ferodo DS2500 are a good "aggressive" street/canyon/autox pad that feels pretty good, dusts a lot, and can take a little heat. I still wouldn't track them on 200tw tires. There are slightly cheaper, slightly more street oriented pads that would probably do the trick, but if you're set on the Ferodos that's okay.

Motul 600 is fine and inexpensive. There are other options here too...Motul will get the job done but tends to need to be replaced a little more frequently.

I also would not use stainless steel lines without frequent inspections. I use OEM lines.

Definitely make sure everything moves nice and smoothly, no stiction etc...so good call on the lube and slide pins.

- Andrew

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Agree.

Ferodo DS2500 are a good "aggressive" street/canyon/autox pad that feels pretty good, dusts a lot, and can take a little heat. I still wouldn't track them on 200tw tires. There are slightly cheaper, slightly more street oriented pads that would probably do the trick, but if you're set on the Ferodos that's okay.

Motul 600 is fine and inexpensive. There are other options here too...Motul will get the job done but tends to need to be replaced a little more frequently.

I also would not use stainless steel lines without frequent inspections. I use OEM lines.

Definitely make sure everything moves nice and smoothly, no stiction etc...so good call on the lube and slide pins.

- Andrew

I am curious about problems with SS brake lines. I always thought they were a bullet proof upgrade to stock lines.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I am curious about problems with SS brake lines. I always thought they were a bullet proof upgrade to stock lines.

Different car, but I was using a reputable brand of SS lines. They moved or shifted enough that they rubbed on something and eventually a hole formed which meant pedal to the floor on a highway offramp. All good in the end, but it was pretty unpleasant.

The way some brands SS lines are secured in the wheel well is...well...not as secure as OEM. Other people have had different types of failures. There are many different brands of SS lines out there, it's one of those parts that just gets pumped out because they're easy to make or adapt from other fitments.

Mostly the benefit is small if any and the potential for failure is way higher. OEM lines are plenty stiff.

- Andrew

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I am curious about problems with SS brake lines. I always thought they were a bullet proof upgrade to stock lines.

SS lines are a braided SS sleeve over a plastic hose. You have to be careful you don't kink them, the sleeve can also chafe the hose. I've always heard inspect regularly.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Different car, but I was using a reputable brand of SS lines. They moved or shifted enough that they rubbed on something and eventually a hole formed which meant pedal to the floor on a highway offramp. All good in the end, but it was pretty unpleasant.

The way some brands SS lines are secured in the wheel well is...well...not as secure as OEM. Other people have had different types of failures. There are many different brands of SS lines out there, it's one of those parts that just gets pumped out because they're easy to make or adapt from other fitments.

Mostly the benefit is small if any and the potential for failure is way higher. OEM lines are plenty stiff.

- Andrew

Yes, you need to buy SS lines made specifically for the car that are proper length with same mounts as oem rubber lines. You would get the same bad results using the wrong rubber lines.

And yes, they are bling.