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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-01-2018, 01:08 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by JSube View Post
I'm of the same opinion regarding how to get more power out of our cars, trying to keep under the line between enhancement and re-engineering. I've spent around $3500 on CSG's NA Power Pkg (you could reduce that total by skipping the exhaust if you like since it doesn't provide power by itself and buy something used) and a Delicious Flex Fuel module- it's been great working with Delicious on dialing in the tune, amazing customer service and experience. Completely changes the power delivery in the car to linear, doesn't overwhelm the chassis (not willing to go to good coilovers) and makes the car much more fun in any situation, street or track.
It makes good sounds too!
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Old 08-01-2018, 02:56 PM   #72
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It makes good sounds too!
I'd agree with that. I don't keep much of anything in my trunk, so I often drop the rear seat back to hear it a little better. And I really like how the tailpipes fill the bumper cutouts
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Old 11-30-2018, 10:24 AM   #73
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The track day at Pueblo was absolutely fantastic; there were only 9 or 10 cars there all day so it was practically like having a private event. I beat up on a 600hp supercharged Camaro 1LE, a 328i track car and a 400hp TPC turbo'd Cayman, and got to pass a 2019 Z06 that someone just bought


I've since added a P&L Motorsports catted equal length header with ceramic coating and am trying to plan for what modifications to complete for next season. Unfortunately, I wiped out my tires at the last event because I didn't have enough negative camber up front, so front camber is a must; I'm looking at Verus Engineering camber plates to handle that duty. I also broke a couple wheel studs up front (too much heat I'm guessing) so ARP studs will be coming along with chromoly lug nuts. Oil cooler is also a must as my temps were getting too high, forcing me to take cool-down laps and take breaks over the course of the 8hr day. Beyond that, a 2.5" overpipe, intake and E85 conversion/tune will round out the power mods for the car and I may opt for a set of Enkei RPF1's to reduce unsprung weight and allow me to carry two sets of tires to the track. Might get some RCE yellow springs to lower ride height though that's more for aesthetics than anything.


Depending on how next year goes, I may decide to upgrade some more things the following year, or may part company with the car if I can find the right Alfa 4C or 997.2 911. We shall see!
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:07 AM   #74
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How one can break several wheel studs just from tracking in just one trackday? There was something else wrong imho, then high temps from tires/brakes. My guess - overtightened or not tightened lugnuts, when changing to/from track tire wheel set. And yes, more camber will even out tire wear. I'd get also camberbolts though in addition to camplates, as just camberbolts or just camplates might be insufficient for optimum track camber of -3 and up. +rear LCAs to up camber in rear too.
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:58 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by churchx View Post
How one can break several wheel studs just from tracking in just one trackday? There was something else wrong imho, then high temps from tires/brakes. My guess - overtightened or not tightened lugnuts, when changing to/from track tire wheel set. And yes, more camber will even out tire wear. I'd get also camberbolts though in addition to camplates, as just camberbolts or just camplates might be insufficient for optimum track camber of -3 and up. +rear LCAs to up camber in rear too.


Subaru makes their lug nuts out of putty; several owners have reported issues with stripped lug nuts and broken studs; mostly only on the front axle. I always hand-thread lug nuts before using the impact wrench on them and then torque and double-torque to spec after any tire changes since I work in a large retail tire shop; it's just second nature. My guess is because I tried removing the wheels shortly after coming off the track, the heat from the brakes may have expanded the metal causing issues.


I have camber bolts and rear LCA's currently; unfortunately I can only get about -1 degree in the front with just bolts so plates up front need to come next.
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Old 11-30-2018, 12:45 PM   #76
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Turbowned: at stock height with camberbolts in both holes (eg. SPC 81305+Whiteline KCA416) you should be able to get ~ -2.3. Lowered ~ -2.5. For more one needs slotted struts or extra camber at topmounts too (camberplates or offset topmounts, or offset lca bushings), as optimum track front camber imho might be some -3 to -3.5, depending on tires, ideally dialed with help of pyrometer.
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:21 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
How one can break several wheel studs just from tracking in just one trackday? There was something else wrong imho, then high temps from tires/brakes. My guess - overtightened or not tightened lugnuts, when changing to/from track tire wheel set. And yes, more camber will even out tire wear. I'd get also camberbolts though in addition to camplates, as just camberbolts or just camplates might be insufficient for optimum track camber of -3 and up. +rear LCAs to up camber in rear too.
Broken studs are very common on the 86. The most common failure mode is galling of the threads initiated by a thread defect, which then welds the nut to the stud. APR studs and aftermarket lugs are the popular fix.

If you bump the wheel against your studs too hard, you can damage the threads on your studs enough to start them galling. Power tools and heat exacerbate the situation. If you can't easily spin the lugs with your fingers, you will likely soon have problems, unless you get new lugnut and clean the stud threads w/ a thread die or 60deg file.

I have dealt a lot with galling in my day job. Using dissimilar materials or coatings are the most common way to address it. More info here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:50 AM   #78
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I had the same problem with my WRX - stripped/broke at least one stud every track day. The nuts are garbage and the part numbers for the nuts and studs are the same on the BRZ. When I got mine, the first mod I made was the ARP studs and aftermarket steel nuts. Torqued to spec every single time, btw.

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Old 12-12-2019, 11:10 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by mkodama View Post
Congrats on the first track day! Fun car, isn’t it?

I got the SPC front camber bolts to help with wear on the front outside corners and it fixed that problem on the stock tires, but kinda created another one; the car is very oversteer prone now. Lift-off oversteer and throttle induced oversteer are very real things now, which are hurting confidence a little bit. I have -1.5 degrees of camber with the bolts maxed out. -1.9 is possible if you move the lower bolts to the upper holes and use the SPC bolts in the lower hole.
Late reply here, but I’m really surprised your car seems oversteer prone with -1.5 front camber and nothing else. Mine is set to -1.7 and isn’t like that in the least in lift throttle situations. Also, one of the things I work hardest on is getting to full throttle as early as possible and I don’t sense I’m anywhere near throttle induced oversteer regardless of corner speed or grip level. I plan to add camber plates and if it still isn’t perceptible looser, a heavier rear sway bar.
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