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Old 06-20-2022, 07:50 AM   #15
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Awesome! I just got back from opening it up a bit. I'm at 925miles. My G meter looks very similar. lol.

I'll go out again at some point and bring it up to 5k. My oil change is scheduled for Thursday, my 1st track day is the 25th.
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Old 06-20-2022, 11:54 AM   #16
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When you changed your oil, did you also replace the oil filter? Or a drain and fill? What oil weight did you use? I quickly skimmed the manual but didn't recall seeing a note like the gen1 where 5W-30 can be used for harder driving conditions. What about the trans and diff?
Yeah I would definitely change the filter since the filter medium should have picked up a lot of the metal particles and shavings from break-in. I changed mine out with a fresh Subaru black filter.

For oil, I went with Mobil 1 0w20 AFE, but will probably switch to a 30 weight before my next track day. I think the manual still states a conventional 5w30 can be used if a synthetic 0w20 is not available, same as the 1st gen. FWIW that Mobil 1 oil is actually pretty stout for a 0w20 with a KV100 value of 8.8. The only 0w20 oil I've found that's thicker at high temp is Redline 0w20.

I'm planning to change out the trans and diff oil this winter.

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I'll go out again at some point and bring it up to 5k. My oil change is scheduled for Thursday, my 1st track day is the 25th.
Nice, I can't wait to hit the track with this car too. Have fun!
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Old 06-20-2022, 06:17 PM   #17
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Yeah I would definitely change the filter since the filter medium should have picked up a lot of the metal particles and shavings from break-in. I changed mine out with a fresh Subaru black filter.

For oil, I went with Mobil 1 0w20 AFE, but will probably switch to a 30 weight before my next track day. I think the manual still states a conventional 5w30 can be used if a synthetic 0w20 is not available, same as the 1st gen. FWIW that Mobil 1 oil is actually pretty stout for a 0w20 with a KV100 value of 8.8. The only 0w20 oil I've found that's thicker at high temp is Redline 0w20.
I did notice the reference of 5-30 in lieu of 0-20 syn. However I thought the literature from the manual of the Gen1 mentioned that 5-30 can be substituted for extreme driving conditions? I can be wrong though as it's been a while since I visited the manual of a Gen1.
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Old 06-20-2022, 09:50 PM   #18
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At 939 miles, I drive down to the dealer and got my oil changed today. Ripped it around this afternoon. This thing is a blast, can't wait for Saturday.
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:29 AM   #19
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I did notice the reference of 5-30 in lieu of 0-20 syn. However I thought the literature from the manual of the Gen1 mentioned that 5-30 can be substituted for extreme driving conditions? I can be wrong though as it's been a while since I visited the manual of a Gen1.
Oh actually yeah the 1st gen manual did mention that you could use an oil with higher viscosity if the car was being operated at higher speeds or extreme loads. The 2nd gen manual only mentions that a higher viscosity oil is necessary to keep the engine properly lubricated in hot weather. Slight difference in language, but at least for me the takeaway is the same. I'll use a 30 weight oil at the track and the thickest cheap 0w20 or 5w20 for everywhere else. In normal conditions, the majority of engine wear happens on cold starts so I think for non-track driving it's important to have good cold start protection.

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At 939 miles, I drive down to the dealer and got my oil changed today. Ripped it around this afternoon. This thing is a blast, can't wait for Saturday.
Which track and organizer are you running with?
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:09 AM   #20
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I got tired of all the paint damage and tried Meguiar's hybrid ceramic wax on my car. I honestly just wanted the longest lasting, easiest paint protection but was not expecting it to shine this much. Combined with the ignition red color, my car was getting so much attention just going out for lunch down the street. Very eye-popping and not recommended at all if you're trying to fly under the radar lol. It's hard to describe how shiny it came out, but here's my attempt at showing it with a picture:

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Old 06-21-2022, 07:28 AM   #21
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Oh actually yeah the 1st gen manual did mention that you could use an oil with higher viscosity if the car was being operated at higher speeds or extreme loads. The 2nd gen manual only mentions that a higher viscosity oil is necessary to keep the engine properly lubricated in hot weather. Slight difference in language, but at least for me the takeaway is the same. I'll use a 30 weight oil at the track and the thickest cheap 0w20 or 5w20 for everywhere else. In normal conditions, the majority of engine wear happens on cold starts so I think for non-track driving it's important to have good cold start protection.
Yeah, i have been using PUP (pennzoil ultra platinum) 5-30 on the gen1 and will likely continue to do so with the FA24. Project farm did an engine oil shoot out a while back and it barely came 2nd behind amsoil. The UAO which came back after 2 track days were spectacular. Thread is here if you are interested:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146810

I just don't want to void the warranty if 5-30 is not spec'd for the engine.
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Old 06-21-2022, 10:12 AM   #22
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Yeah, i have been using PUP (pennzoil ultra platinum) 5-30 on the gen1 and will likely continue to do so with the FA24. Project farm did an engine oil shoot out a while back and it barely came 2nd behind amsoil. The UAO which came back after 2 track days were spectacular. Thread is here if you are interested:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146810

I just don't want to void the warranty if 5-30 is not spec'd for the engine.
Nice, thanks for the data point. That UOA does look very solid. Out of curiosity, how many track days had the engine seen at that point?

I think the only thing that concerns me about PUP 5w30 is its KV 100 value is lower than most other 30 weight oils I've looked at:

PUP 5w30: 10.3
Castrol Edge 5w30 EP: 10.8 (2.9 HTHS)
M1 5w30: 11.1
M1 0w30 AFE: 11.5
Castrol Edge 5w30 LL: 11.6 (3.5 HTHS)
Pennzoil Euro L 5w30: 12.6 (3.5 HTHS)

I'd bet any quality synthetic 30 weight oil would be fine though. BTW I get the sense that Subaru is much more likely to void the warranty for track use than for using a 30 weight oil.
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Old 06-21-2022, 11:31 AM   #23
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Nice, thanks for the data point. That UOA does look very solid. Out of curiosity, how many track days had the engine seen at that point?

I think the only thing that concerns me about PUP 5w30 is its KV 100 value is lower than most other 30 weight oils I've looked at:

PUP 5w30: 10.3
Castrol Edge 5w30 EP: 10.8 (2.9 HTHS)
M1 5w30: 11.1
M1 0w30 AFE: 11.5
Castrol Edge 5w30 LL: 11.6 (3.5 HTHS)
Pennzoil Euro L 5w30: 12.6 (3.5 HTHS)

I'd bet any quality synthetic 30 weight oil would be fine though. BTW I get the sense that Subaru is much more likely to void the warranty for track use than for using a 30 weight oil.
The engine was fairly young, it was low mileage (about 18k miles) and has only seen 3 track days. That sample was taken after the last track day.

Yeah, the PUP is a bit thinner but the results are there. I have regularly got the oil temp to about 110C even when i am hooning hwy ramps. In my opinion, i don't think oil temp is as a big factor as the internet makes it out to be. I am sure there are added benefits if you run cooler oil during track use but you are also running other risks outside of track (longer oil warm ups, over cooling, leaks) which can also destroy your engine. It really depends on your usage case. In any case, don't want to turn this into oil/cooler discussion as there are already too many horses killed in this discussion.

Good point about tracking/warranty. I wonder our ECU logs anything that can indicate how the car was driven.
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:03 PM   #24
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The engine was fairly young, it was low mileage (about 18k miles) and has only seen 3 track days. That sample was taken after the last track day.

Yeah, the PUP is a bit thinner but the results are there. I have regularly got the oil temp to about 110C even when i am hooning hwy ramps. In my opinion, i don't think oil temp is as a big factor as the internet makes it out to be. I am sure there are added benefits if you run cooler oil during track use but you are also running other risks outside of track (longer oil warm ups, over cooling, leaks) which can also destroy your engine. It really depends on your usage case. In any case, don't want to turn this into oil/cooler discussion as there are already too many horses killed in this discussion.

Good point about tracking/warranty. I wonder our ECU logs anything that can indicate how the car was driven.
So, ZDan has recruited another disciple I see Haha just kidding. Yeah I totally get why people might choose not to use an oil cooler. I'm undecided on this new car personally. It has the OEM style cooler which is better than nothing. I'll look at my own data from the track and decide from there. I'll probably only add one if I start doing 10+ track days/year again and if I can find an oil cooler with a layout I like.

I doubt in the ECU logs that they'd record a long enough period of data to prove track use but they could probably make an educated guess based on time stamps, RPM/engine load, and oil temps/pressures. Maybe g-meter values on this new gen? I wouldn't hide from it anyway. Pay to play kind of deal, just my personal take.
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Old 06-21-2022, 03:04 PM   #25
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So, ZDan has recruited another disciple I see Haha just kidding. Yeah I totally get why people might choose not to use an oil cooler. I'm undecided on this new car personally. It has the OEM style cooler which is better than nothing. I'll look at my own data from the track and decide from there. I'll probably only add one if I start doing 10+ track days/year again and if I can find an oil cooler with a layout I like.

I doubt in the ECU logs that they'd record a long enough period of data to prove track use but they could probably make an educated guess based on time stamps, RPM/engine load, and oil temps/pressures. Maybe g-meter values on this new gen? I wouldn't hide from it anyway. Pay to play kind of deal, just my personal take.
haha, ZDan is vocal of his opinion on oil coolers but I tend to agree with his view. And my oil analysis will agree with me as well. Again, not saying it isn't beneficial to have cooler oil temps during track conditions, if my car lived on a race track, I will be adding one in a heart beat. But for my use case, I don't think I will benefit much from one.
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Old 06-22-2022, 06:43 AM   #26
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Which track and organizer are you running with?
LimeRock Park- FCP Euro Proving grounds AutoX lappping day. Can't wait.
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Old 06-22-2022, 02:10 PM   #27
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LimeRock Park- FCP Euro Proving grounds AutoX lappping day. Can't wait.
Nice always wanted to try Lime Rock. Seems like it'd be fun with the elevation changes. Have fun, post some pictures
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Old 06-22-2022, 02:55 PM   #28
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Thanks! With the warning that I'm not recommending anyone deviate from the owner's manual, personally I didn't want to wait until 1000 miles to seat the rings and I also didn't want to just flip a switch at 1000 miles and suddenly start ripping to 7400 RPM at full throttle. So this was my break-in:

500 miles: 4500 RPM, 1/2 throttle
600 miles: 5000 RPM, 1/2 throttle
700 miles: 6000 RPM, 2/3 throttle*
800 miles: 6500 RPM, full throttle*
900 miles: 7000 RPM, full throttle*
1000 miles: 7400 RPM, full throttle*

*When I went 2/3 throttle and up, it was only at 3000+ ft elevation where cylinder pressures are lower due to decreased air density.

Lastly I also using engine braking at around 600 miles to try to seat the rings. So I'd gently rev to 6000 or 6500 RPM and then engine brake back down to 2000 RPM.
Neat, I did nearly exactly the same thing when I first bought mine. 500 more RPM per 100 miles and I started going up at 500 miles as well. Didn't think anyone else would do something this specific like me, but it's nice to know I wasn't the only one!
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