STR Build Help! 2nd Gen BRZ - RCE Tarmac 2s

[Tomyyyu]

Building a 2nd gen brz with RCE T2s.

1st year of autocrossing this platform. 2nd year of autocrossing overall.

Currently running:

•RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 2s w/ Vorshlag Camber Plates

•Whiteline Front sway 22MM and stock rear sway

•Adjustable End links on all four corners

•17x9 245/17/17 - RE71RS - 35psi when hot (all four)




Using the following settings (added the photo above). The car doesn't feel like it has good turn in. Not an expert on what I should be explaining on what I'm feeling so yeah - please do ask questions!

It also feels almost floaty. I can confirm I’m 100% adjusting compression correctly since it has an indicated + or - but for rebound it doesn’t. It all depends on the way I use the overpriced KW adjusters, lol. So if I’m at the hood I turn right to increase. If I’m at the trunk I turn right to increase as well. It does feel a bit floaty at their “recommended” settings. But not like I’m getting too much understeer or oversteer, it’s just not sharp.

My alignment is:

- 3 camber front

- 2 camber rear

+6.5 caster

+1/32 toe out front (each side)

-1/16 toe in rear (each)

One thing I defientely need to fix is that my end links are preloaded on the front, and possibly on the rear as well. Just not sure why the car isn’t where I want it when compared to my NC Miata which was fantastic.

I could get more front camber but RCE with the Vorshlag will only get me up to -3.7. If I add the camber bolts and swapped the lower bolt for the top one in the strut that will probably get me into 4-5 range. But RCE has a warning saying don’t use camber bolts, which I don’t really get. [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230711/6bd9bfc2dc9***43fac4f59a567d2e21.jpg[/IMG]


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[Tomyyyu]

Originally Posted by Tomyyyu

Building a 2nd gen brz with RCE T2s.

1st year of autocrossing this platform. 2nd year of autocrossing overall.

Currently running:

•RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 2s w/ Vorshlag Camber Plates

•Whiteline Front sway 22MM and stock rear sway

•Adjustable End links on all four corners

•17x9 245/17/17 - RE71RS - 35psi when hot (all four)




Using the following settings (added the photo above). The car doesn't feel like it has good turn in. Not an expert on what I should be explaining on what I'm feeling so yeah - please do ask questions!

It also feels almost floaty. I can confirm I’m 100% adjusting compression correctly since it has an indicated + or - but for rebound it doesn’t. It all depends on the way I use the overpriced KW adjusters, lol. So if I’m at the hood I turn right to increase. If I’m at the trunk I turn right to increase as well. It does feel a bit floaty at their “recommended” settings. But not like I’m getting too much understeer or oversteer, it’s just not sharp.

My alignment is:

- 3 camber front

- 2 camber rear

+6.5 caster

+1/32 toe out front (each side)

-1/16 toe in rear (each)

One thing I defientely need to fix is that my end links are preloaded on the front, and possibly on the rear as well. Just not sure why the car isn’t where I want it when compared to my NC Miata which was fantastic.

I could get more front camber but RCE with the Vorshlag will only get me up to -3.7. If I add the camber bolts and swapped the lower bolt for the top one in the strut that will probably get me into 4-5 range. But RCE has a warning saying don’t use camber bolts, which I don’t really get. [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230711/6bd9bfc2dc9***43fac4f59a567d2e21.jpg[/IMG]


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Trying to attach the photo that says don’t use camber bolts.


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[strat61caster]

They’re just being conservative for the guy who doesn’t want to look at his coilover ever again, get to -4 degrees camber up front, add a couple clicks of front rebound and see how it feels. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

Front swaybar setting?

[Tomyyyu]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

They’re just being conservative for the guy who doesn’t want to look at his coilover ever again, get to -4 degrees camber up front, add a couple clicks of front rebound and see how it feels. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

Front swaybar setting?

Got it. So I have been adjusting rebound fine. Wanted to eliminate any user error lol.

Front sway is a Whiteline 22MM on the soft setting, only has two settings.


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[Racecomp Engineering]

Yes you definitely need more camber, yes you can use a camber bolt in the LOWER hole. Use the OEM "crash" bolt in the upper hole.

You can definitely add more rebound for auto-x. We really mean those settings (alignment and damper) in the manual to just be a starting point and not a magic formula. Every car and user is a little bit different and these are certainly not auto-x specific settings.

- Andrew

[strat61caster]

I’ve also found ride heights to be pretty useful for dialing in. On my B16 I ended up around 5.25” up front and 5.5” rear measured from punch welds to the ground. This may or may not work depending on what bump stops rce gives you and the stroke of the kw.

Another factor is the 400# spring up front is pretty beefy, lots of people with a softer front spring, I’ve got 6k and I’ve heard of others going softer to 5k (290#-340#) that combined with a 22mm bar is a lot of front stiffness, my bar setting right now is basically a soft 20mm. Which front bump stops may be another area to tune as well to get the front feeling more planted.

Edit: stx is a double edged sword this way. Something else I’m recalling is on kw club sports on another chassis I ended up max stiff all around and wanting a touch more damping. When we changed that cars springs/tires/sites my method was full stiff comp/rebound and then dial back rebound so it feels planted and compliant.

[renfield90]

My two cents is that the recommended rebound settings were really close to what I actually wanted, but on the compression side I wanted way more force than the recommended settings. YMMV.

If you are used to tuning a street class car with shocks that adjust rebound only, you need to throw out some of what you learned, since now you have proper shocks and rarely is the right answer to just crank in more rebound until it doesn't suck. You can do way better than "doesn't suck" with these shocks.

[Tomyyyu]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yes you definitely need more camber, yes you can use a camber bolt in the LOWER hole. Use the OEM "crash" bolt in the upper hole.

You can definitely add more rebound for auto-x. We really mean those settings (alignment and damper) in the manual to just be a starting point and not a magic formula. Every car and user is a little bit different and these are certainly not auto-x specific settings.

- Andrew

Got it! First timer here. I’ll do that and max out the camber plates for more camber.

For ride height, what do you guys recommend as a starting point?


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[Tomyyyu]

Originally Posted by renfield90

My two cents is that the recommended rebound settings were really close to what I actually wanted, but on the compression side I wanted way more force than the recommended settings. YMMV.

If you are used to tuning a street class car with shocks that adjust rebound only, you need to throw out some of what you learned, since now you have proper shocks and rarely is the right answer to just crank in more rebound until it doesn't suck. You can do way better than "doesn't suck" with these shocks.

Yeah first time using two adjustable.

Andrew (above) is the man and shared this link: https://motoiq.com/how-to-adjust-you...stable-shocks/

So I played with compression and I like it 13/16 clicks to stiff. Now I’ll play with rebound next.


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