Something seriously wrong?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

You need to add them in your OFT or ECUTEK. Not from datzip

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They are there, you have to click them to activate them on the chart. The only thing he is missing is IAM.

[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

They are there, you have to click them to activate them on the chart. The only thing he is missing is IAM.

What is IAM?
I’m using a OFT
My fuel trims have been fine all around till last Monday morning. Why is my MAF just all of a sudden needing rescaling? My intake isn’t supposed to need scaling. Steve himself said this intake was basically stock scaling.


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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

What is IAM?
I’m using a OFT
My fuel trims have been fine all around till last Monday morning. Why is my MAF just all of a sudden needing rescaling? My intake isn’t supposed to need scaling. Steve himself said this intake was basically stock scaling.


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Then drive the car for a while longer and see if the trims settle, depending on your driving it takes around 100 miles. IAM=Ignition advance multiplier, it is just advance multiplier on the OFT menu.
One of the threads I found searching “BRZ Mishimoto CAI scaling” was a thread from him talking about it needing some tweaking so Even the OFT base maps took some maf scaling on my car with a stock intake. If you are going to spend all that money on mods why not take the time to log it and make sure everything is good. Reading your first post it did not seem like your fuel trims were good and it “sudden needing rescaling.” I thought you said it was -5% after installing new parts and then you reflashed and it went off further.

It seems like you are looking for an answer you want to hear and not actual help.

[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Then drive the car for a while longer and see if the trims settle, depending on your driving it takes around 100 miles. IAM=Ignition advance multiplier, it is just advance multiplier on the OFT menu.
One of the threads I found searching “BRZ Mishimoto CAI scaling” was a thread from him talking about it needing some tweaking so Even the OFT base maps took some maf scaling on my car with a stock intake. If you are going to spend all that money on mods why not take the time to log it and make sure everything is good. Reading your first post it did not seem like your fuel trims were good and it “sudden needing rescaling.” I thought you said it was -5% after installing new parts and then you reflashed and it went off further.

It seems like you are looking for an answer you want to hear and not actual help.

It’s a little off but like I said basically stock. Which would be completely safe to drive on like -5 at idle is. And I had -5 at idle for a long time until about a week after installing new UEL headers. Now I have -13.6 and a rough idle quite literally out of no where. For several days after the UEL Header install the fuel trims sat around -5 to -7 at idle constant. And reflashing isn’t when I saw it get worse. I reflashed hoping to fix it and it didn’t. I understand I should maf scale to get the best fuel trims, but What I’m asking is what caused it randomly to start sitting at -13.6 to -16.5 at idle and have idle issues when it should have about the same or like you said a little off of stock? I don’t see -16.5 as a little off of stock and something must be wrong right? Idk I don’t mean to be a **** or ignore your advice. I’m just a little paranoid and scared of damaging the car. I tried rescaling it myself and struggled could anyone help me?


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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

It’s a little off but like I said basically stock. Which would be completely safe to drive on like -5 at idle is. And I had -5 at idle for a long time until about a week after installing new UEL headers. Now I have -13.6 and a rough idle quite literally out of no where. For several days after the UEL Header install the fuel trims sat around -5 to -7 at idle constant. And reflashing isn’t when I saw it get worse. I reflashed hoping to fix it and it didn’t. I understand I should maf scale to get the best fuel trims, but What I’m asking is what caused it randomly to start sitting at -13.6 to -16.5 at idle and have idle issues when it should have about the same or like you said a little off of stock? I don’t see -16.5 as a little off of stock and something must be wrong right? Idk I don’t mean to be a **** or ignore your advice. I’m just a little paranoid and scared of damaging the car. I tried rescaling it myself and struggled could anyone help me?


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Next time it does that rough idle log it and post it.


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[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Next time it does that rough idle log it and post it.


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I have it on my computer at home logged. I’ll post it in the morning. The afr bounces around. idk if I caught it almost stalling or not.


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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

I have it on my computer at home logged. I’ll post it in the morning. The afr bounces around. idk if I caught it almost stalling or not.


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Is it bouncing to the lean side? Could be that the gasket on the O2 sensor is leaking when you swapped to the new one.

[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Is it bouncing to the lean side? Could be that the gasket on the O2 sensor is leaking when you swapped to the new one.

I’ve seen the afr bounce all the way from 13.6 to 15.2 that’s just off of memory so I might be a little wrong on this numbers. But I know for sure I’ve seen it hit 13 something and seen it hit 15 something at idle.
At first I thought I could be because they are UEL headers.
I tried to make sure the O2 sensors were tight the other night. Couldn’t tighten them up or loosen them any with my normal wrench. I ordered a tool right after that. Going to try to inspect them maybe I need a new one or new gaskets. I didn’t even know it had a gasket, but I didn’t put them in my friend did and I tightened them.
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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

I’ve seen the afr bounce all the way from 13.6 to 15.2 that’s just off of memory so I might be a little wrong on this numbers. But I know for sure I’ve seen it hit 13 something and seen it hit 15 something at idle.
At first I thought I could be because they are UEL headers.
I tried to make sure the O2 sensors were tight the other night. Couldn’t tighten them up or loosen them any with my normal wrench. I ordered a tool right after that. Going to try to inspect them maybe I need a new one or new gaskets. I didn’t even know it had a gasket, but I didn’t put them in my friend did and I tightened them.
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Bouncing around lean like that indicates an exhaust leak so I would check the the mounting surfaces and the O2 sensor. The gasket on the sensor is a crush washer, like what you see on a spark plug. Though I would anticipate seeing a positive LTFT if that is what it is, not a negative.


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[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Bouncing around lean like that indicates an exhaust leak so I would check the the mounting surfaces and the O2 sensor. The gasket on the sensor is a crush washer, like what you see on a spark plug. Though I would anticipate seeing a positive LTFT if that is what it is, not a negative.


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IDLE bouncing

https://datazap.me/u/christian628/id...7-8-9-10-11-12

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

IDLE bouncing

https://datazap.me/u/christian628/id...7-8-9-10-11-12

No exhaust leak. Maf voltage also looks stable with engine load. How many miles since reflash, runs okay when you are driving, just idle issue?

[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

No exhaust leak. Maf voltage also looks stable with engine load. How many miles since reflash, runs okay when you are driving, just idle issue?

Maybe a little over 30 miles since reflash. I dont notice any issues when driving and the wot logs look fine.


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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Christian628

Maybe a little over 30 miles since reflash. I dont notice any issues when driving and the wot logs look fine.


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Give it a bit more time and see what it does. Nothing really stands out aside from the LTFT being so off at idle. If it is still behaving similar after around 100 miles it looks like it may need a bit of maf rescale on the bottom. Just give it a bit longer to see if it settles first.

[Christian628]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Give it a bit more time and see what it does. Nothing really stands out aside from the LTFT being so off at idle. If it is still behaving similar after around 100 miles it looks like it may need a bit of maf rescale on the bottom. Just give it a bit longer to see if it settles first.

Drove it to work today. I let it idle for a while and saw it get as low as -7 while parked before i had to go in. STFT was still jumping around from 2 to 0. Ill update on my next break. Tomorrow Im going to replace my intake filter and clean the pipe. See if i can find what was or still is causing this. Going to inspect/clean my o2 sensors and double check my headers as well. Anything else I should check out?
Going to log some driving to scale as well. Going to do 2nd gear 3k to redline WOT pulls and slow under 3k rpm driving. Any tips?
Are there any videos of people walking you through all this stuff? If not someone should really make one. A whole lot easier to listen to and see someone do it then read and understand it. At least for me it is.

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