2022 Subaru BRZ hpde build

[Code Monkey]

Another HPDE weekend, this time at Barber.

The track is smooth compared to Road Atlanta so I started stiffening the coilovers from 5/5 clicks and worked up to 11/9 clicks. Wife says the car feels better like this on the street.

This was the 3rd weekend on V730 tires and they were past their peak but lots of fun with more slip than usual.

The driver front temps were horrible, for example, 195 202 215/220 (in, middle, out). Driver rear had a similar pattern, although not as bad as the front. Need more camber front and rear. Rear is easy, for the front I need to see if the inserts on MCS coilovers are flipped already. Will check this weekend as I perform the usual post-track checks and maintenance.

Hope the heat wrap in the front stayed intact, if not, will use wire to make sure the wrap stays in place.

[Code Monkey]

First finding is a slipped axle nut on the passenger side... Looks like someone at the factory half-assed their job. Driver side for comparison.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey

NVH was livable, but obviously I would not recommend these bushings...

so here's what Whiteline said after seeing your pics:

"wow, ive not seen photos like this before. we have supplied this bushing to car using the 86 race series here in AU. I do not think this is a common issue."

I don't track the car so fingers crossed they'll be okay for me

[Code Monkey]

Started working on the rear today.

I did not like the way the rear rotors were poking over the OEM heat shield/backing plate. I do not have heat shields in the front, so let's yank the rear heat shields. They can be removed without touching the parking brake mechanism.

The backing plate is sandwiched between the knuckle and hub so the first step is to remove the hub so the backing plate is just hanging there on the e-brake cable. Support the backing plate and using a dremel or something similar, remove the spot weld that is on the narrow part/strip of the heat shield close the the wide part (I used a coarse 60-grit sanding band). You can use pliers and bend the wide corner out of the way so it is easier to work the dremel.

Once the spot weld is broken, grab the freed wide part with pliers and rock it up and down until the next spot weld brakes loose, then repeat this process as you go around the backing plate. You should be able to reach the spot weld on the narrow strip on the other side. Dremel out the remaining two spot welds on the narrow strip and you are done.

If you are like me and want to do a clean job, grind down all the spot welds and rough areas, degrease, and spray with high heat paint. I used the Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra spray good to 648 C/1200 F, there is also a Rust-Oleum Automotive High Heat primer and paint good to 1093 C/2000 F. Let it dry and bolt the backing plates back on.

I applied heat tape on the rubber boot and the e-brake cable. Will finish tomorrow and wrap the speed sensor and brake line too.

[blsfrs]

Cool build.


Is there enough radiant heat from your brakes to melt the boot and cable housing?


I like the underbody panels. Are they standard equipment on 2nd gens?

[Code Monkey]

No idea how much radiant heat there will be, probably not much, but better safe than sorry. In the front, you definitely want to wrap the two boots that are close to the rotor.

The underbody panels are standard on 2nd gens.

[Code Monkey]

Flipped the MCS inserts and got another alignment. May be a little too much for Road Atlanta but should be ok for Barber, we'll see. With so much camber in front, the turn in is already quick so toe is set to zero.

[Code Monkey]

After two weekends at Road Atlanta and one at Barber, it is time for another oil change. 2,231 miles on the car. Last 3 cans of Motul 5w30 300V that I have as a carryover from the previous gen before I switch to 5w40. Opened up the oil filter, no evidence of any gunk.

[KevinK121]

You clearly get out to more serious tracks than I do but I find the need for an immediate bbk kit surprising. Were the oem calipers/rotors with more aggressive pads not enough to immediately overpower the tires?

Also curious as to how you came up with the sway bar balance. Stock fsb with rsb removed felt like an improvement for you but would it not have been a better balance to replace the rsb once you'd gone more stiff up front?

Are you considering an oil pan baffle?
What else were you considering for suspension besides mcs?

[Code Monkey]

For folks just starting their track day adventure, the usual advice applies: start with a stock-ish car and upgrade as your skills develop. I have been tracking since 2012 and instructing since 2016 so I am well past this stage. Coming from a 2017 BRZ, I already know where I want the car to be so there is no need to mod bit by bit.

The suspension is done for now although a need for spherical bushings may arise in the future. There is no aftermarket RSB yet and I will most likely try one once it becomes available.

The brakes are done. OEM setup will of course overpower tires, but how well it will last doing 30 minutes with slicks, 4-5 sessions a day, 12-16 HPDE weekends per year?

Wheel/tire setup is not done yet. 18x9's and slicks coming soon. An oil pan baffle is going in soon as well.

[Code Monkey]

Installed ARP wheel studs in front and rear, OEM length, and KYO-EI Project Kics Spacers 15mm in front.

[Pat]

Looks just like mine will early next year

[Code Monkey]

After a 4-month wait the new wheels finally arrived, Advan Racing RS III, 18x9 +50. Will be a few weeks until I get tires mounted but they easily clear the brake calipers.

[villainous_frx]

That's the stuff. Excellent choice in wheels!