06-18-2021, 04:43 PM | #127 | |
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06-18-2021, 05:32 PM | #128 |
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This looks like it won't be long before my trunk mounted amp is actually performing some work instead of just being ballast to shift the weight distribution of the car a fraction of a millimeter rearward. If the backup camera image can be routed to the HU display instead of the postage stamp sized corner of the rear view mirror, all the better!
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06-18-2021, 05:42 PM | #129 | |
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These are the results that I was hoping for. Now, on to incorporating the antenna turn-on circuit into the system. When you pull out the ten-pin connector from the back of the head unit, you see this, Looking at the pin being indicated by the red arrow, (here's the backside view of that plug turning the plug away from the viewer 180 degrees so that it is now upside-down), THAT is the wire that travels all the way back to the door speaker amplifier and into the extension harness on the blue wire. That wire is no longer being used for the same purpose in your system as was originally intended when the head units turned on the OEM amp, but as one member here mentioned, he had blown a fuse when he tried to put +12 volts on it when he tried to get his amp working before. The extension test harness that I supplied you isolates that wire from the head unit preventing you from being able to send +12 back through it during testing with the harness, and into the head unit. If you look at the blue wire on the vehicle side of the test harness, I taped the end of that wire and added a little note not to connect it. Now we get to work with it: Make sure the head unit is plugged in with all connectors connected so that it operates. Keep the extension harness connected at both ends so that your door speakers are able to work being powered by the amp. Being careful not to touch the end of the wire to ground or to any other wire, remove that warning flag from the end of the blue wire. Take your volt meter and clip the black lead to the amp chassis, and the red lead to that blue wire. Set your meter to read DC Volts. Take some voltage readings with the head unit turned on, and with the head unit turned off with its power switch. What do you read? What do you read with the head unit off using the vehicles push-to-start button (or key if that's what you have)? Now pull the wire nut off of the test harness's yellow +12 volts continuous power supply wire in the middle of the test harness and again, being careful not to touch it to ground, but also keeping the two yellow wires twisted together, clip your red lead to those yellow wires and the black lead to the blue test wire on the vehicle-side of the test harness. Take some DC voltage readings with the head unit on, and then with the head unit off with it's power switch. What does it read? What does it read with the vehicle off using the push-to-start button or key? In all of your voltage readings above, make note whether your voltage readings are plus or minus, this is important. Get back to me with that info. I'll try to get back here later tonight. |
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06-19-2021, 09:35 AM | #130 |
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Wiring Test Results
Voltage at amp Blue wire with meter connected to amp chassis Car on HU on = 0v Car on HU off = 0v Voltage with Meter RED lead to +12v line and Black lead to Test Harness Blue wire. Car on HU on = 12v + Car on HU off = 12v + Car off = 12v + |
06-19-2021, 11:23 AM | #131 | |
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Okay, so the head unit is sending out a negative on that pin. This explains why @trueno86power blew his fuse when he tried to connect +12 volts to the wire while it was still connected to the head unit. What you can do, is either de-pin or cut the wire that I have indicated in the ten-pin connector in the picture here, and then splice that wire on the vehicle side into the antenna turn-on wire as indicated in this picture here, A T-tap should work okay on that wire, or if you want to make it a permanent modification, you can solder and heat shrink. If you don't want to cut the wires, there are Metra harnesses available that can be connected together to form another extension harness just like I have made for the amp, but you will need one for the ten-pin connector, and one for the antenna connector. I can even fabricate some for @Tcoat if he wants. Insulate everything up, remove the extension test harnesses from between the amplifier and the vehicle amplifier harnesses, plug the vehicle harnesses back into the amp and test it out. Listen for turn-on and turn-off pops as you turn the head unit on and off and as you turn the car off while the head unit is on. Let us know how it goes. |
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06-19-2021, 03:59 PM | #132 |
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Wiring Test 3 Update! AMP enable from Headunit
After pulling the HU and disconnecting the 10 pin harness I located the brown with silver stripe wire and de-pinned it. I wrapped a extra 18gauge wire around the pin. I didnt want to cut anything at this point. And used heat shrink to seal it up. I attached the the new wire to antenna signal 12v line with a tap. I checked the voltage at the amp connector with the car off and on. Car off = 0v Car on = 12v I reconnected the factory AMP harness and powered on the car, everything worked correctly and the once disabled Factory AMP was 100% functional. Last edited by oddrelic; 06-19-2021 at 05:04 PM. |
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06-19-2021, 04:34 PM | #133 | |
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Back up a second..... Does the amp turn off when you manually turn the head unit off while your car is still in ACC or ON? |
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06-19-2021, 04:57 PM | #134 | |
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Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
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06-19-2021, 05:18 PM | #135 | |
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I guess we're misunderstanding each other. The amplifier always has a standby +12 volts. It gets that through the 15-amp fuse that you had to install, through the 6-pin connector. When the head unit turns on, it sends ANOTHER +12 on that amplifier turn-on lead on the 10-pin connector, which actually turns the amplifier on via a tiny relay inside. All of the high current runs through the main, constant power wire through that 15-amp fuse. The turn-on signal is a very low current. The amplifier turn-on lead should energize and de-energize with the head unit to turn the amp on and off. That's why I need to make sure it is turning on and off with the head unit while your car is in ACC or ON. Did I explain that any better? |
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06-19-2021, 05:47 PM | #136 | |
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Hope I've explained myself better. If not let me know. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
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06-20-2021, 12:55 PM | #137 | |
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Yes, I understand now. The head unit is NOT turning the amplifier and antenna off when you manually turn the head unit off, the vehicle is. We COULD use that antenna turn-on wire as long as we’re not getting any turn on or turn off pops through your door speakers, and IF we can’t find an alternative amp turn-on lead. 99% of head units, factory and aftermarket, will de-energize their amplifier turn-on leads when you manually turn off the head unit, and that is our goal here. I would like to test if there are any other leads coming out of the head unit THAT AREN’T BEING USED (or maybe ARE being used if it comes down to this) that may energize and de-energize a +12-volt signal when you manually turn the head unit on and off. This means you will have to start probing some of the other pins at the back of the head unit with your volt meter while manually turning the head unit on and off. Can you do that for us? |
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06-20-2021, 02:52 PM | #138 | |
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Is there a pin out diagram that already exists for these cars? On a good note. There is no popping sound at all when the amp is powered off the antenna line. There was small popping when I used the test harness at the amp. Sent from Tapatalk |
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06-21-2021, 02:29 AM | #139 | |
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I don't know of any pin out diagrams for your head unit. I know there are wiring diagrams available for the vehicle, but with this change in head units from the older style, we can no longer rely on the vehicle wiring diagrams that are out there for this particular application. Perhaps there are some updated wiring diagrams for the newer model years cars that have this optional head unit, and pin out diagrams for it. Maybe someone here can provide them if they're out there? Personally, I think it would be best just to start testing wires. I would start with the ten-pin plug, where there was one open spot next to the brown with silver wire that you de-pinned, and check that pin position first in the head unit. You'll want to clamp your black meter lead to chassis ground and start probing with the red lead. There is also a free spot on the six-pin plug that you should test as well. Here are some pictures, The open spots are indicated by the green arrows, There are also open spots on the twenty-eight pin plug that you can test. And if you don't find a +12-volt switched output on any of these open spots, you can always see how some of the actual wires test out in that same plug. |
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06-22-2021, 02:19 PM | #140 |
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I have some interesting information on this.
I decided to pull my factory 2015 model head unit out of the closet today and did some testing on the amplifier turn-on output, and the antenna turn-on output, I was happily surprised to get the same results as @oddrelic did with his antenna turn-on lead in his upgraded head unit, with my older head units' antenna turn-on lead. Mine powers on with a +12 volt output with the vehicle key in ACC or ON and stays on whether the head unit is manually turned on or off, and also during whatever source is being used, as long as the ACC wire is powered. Here's part of the good news, I also got the exact same results on the amplifier turn-on lead as I did with the antenna turn-on lead. It is also energized with a +12 volt output as long as the vehicle is in ACC or ON, and whether the head unit is manually on or off, and regardless of source. Strange, as all aftermarket head units turn off these two outputs when they are manually turned off. The last bit of good news is that we finally verified that the factory amp stays on whenever the vehicle is in ACC or ON on the older cars with the older head units and that's how Toyota/Subaru/Pioneer engineered the system to operate. Due to this realization, I see no reason to make any further tests on the upgraded head units. @oddrelic, you can leave your head unit permanently wired as you have it now where you have de-pinned the brown/silver wire from the ten-pin plug and tee'd it onto the antenna turn-on lead. And just to show everyone which head unit I am using to test this on, here it is powered up, Here is a closer look at the number on the front, And here is the data sticker on the top, Testing is complete! |
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audio, head unit double din, mp3, stereo, usb port |
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