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BRZ Second-Gen (2022+) -- General Topics General topics for the second-gen BRZ


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Old 02-24-2022, 03:27 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rawpoly View Post
I highly doubt HP influences insurance rates.
It's more of risk and profiles of historic owners and accident rates.
This, insurance rates are driven in part by replacement value of the vehicle, but most of the cost is the liability insurance, and those prices are driven by insurance companies previous experience with claims. Vehicles that have a large number of younger drivers, typically have higher rates, even though their value may be lower..

The lower costs on the 135i don't surprise me, as most are going to be driven by older, more experienced, and lower risk taking drivers. The Mustang surprises me though..
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Old 02-24-2022, 05:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by LRNAD90 View Post
This, insurance rates are driven in part by replacement value of the vehicle, but most of the cost is the liability insurance, and those prices are driven by insurance companies previous experience with claims. Vehicles that have a large number of younger drivers, typically have higher rates, even though their value may be lower..

The lower costs on the 135i don't surprise me, as most are going to be driven by older, more experienced, and lower risk taking drivers. The Mustang surprises me though..
Yes, it was really more rhetorical. I used to work in claims, but I wasn't an underwriter or an actuary. There are tons of variables that go into your insurance prices.

Age, credit, driving history, zip code, miles driven, is it parked in a garage or outside in an apartment complex, etc, etc. And different insurance companies rate all those points differently based on the type of people they want to insure.

When I had my R6 right before I turned 25, my insurance was $125/months. I turned 25, it dropped to $15/month.
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Old 02-24-2022, 05:56 PM   #17
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Thanks for sharing! how did you break in the car?
Kept the revs below 4000, avoid idling or constant engine speed, lots of variety in rpm, engine load & vacuum. Always let the oil get up to temp before bringing the load and RPMs up. Keep an eye on your oil level because it will consume a little bit during the initial break-in. Oil changed after 1000kms and start sending it.
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Old 02-24-2022, 06:03 PM   #18
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Very nice. Do you feel a difference of 57whp between the 2 gens?
Yeah, you definitely the difference in torque and that extra pull above 6000. It's not a fast car in my opinion but at least it doesn't feel like a slow car anymore.

The power is adequate for the chassis but, it can use a bit more. I believe headers, tuning, intake, and smoothing out the power band to completely eliminate the mini dip would be great. If this car can make 250whp with those mods on E85, I would be pumped.
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Old 02-24-2022, 06:09 PM   #19
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I wanted to mention one more thing for you guys. It was a really cold crisp winter day with low humidity. Ideal for making power/torque. In terms of my 2013 FRS dyno, that was springtime but still moderately cold being Vancouver, B.C.

So there's a good chance the new FA24 would make 215ish during spring/summer & the FRS would've made 170ish in winter. Regardless, the gains are clearly there and these cars are a bit underrated without a doubt.
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Old 04-02-2022, 03:59 PM   #20
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I think they must have, I'm thinking mostly because of the 2.0 supra and the wrx.

But the power makes sense if you think about it. FA20 made 205, just over 100hp/liter. If we assume a 15% drivetrain loss, and an average 214whp, that's ~252hp. If we assume even less, say 13% loss, that's 246hp. Which is still just over 100hp/liter. If the FA20 did it, the FA24 probably did as well.

I think they did, too. These things will run.

I’ve had 5 Civic Si coupes 2008, 2011, 2014, 2018, and 2020, as well as a 2019 Type R.

That’s ~200 hp - 305 hp. Dynos have shown the numbers to be fairly accurate.

This car is way higher on the Type R end of apparent power. I know it’s light and different in numerous ways, but I’ve had 26 cars and driven countless sports cars, and I can do a pretty good butt dyno test if I know the weight of the car. This car feels like a quoted 250 hp at the flywheel car, if not 260. Runs great and I’m very, very pleasantly surprised. Disclaimer: I have a GR86, but they’re the same to me.
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Old 04-02-2022, 04:24 PM   #21
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I think they did, too. These things will run.

I’ve had 5 Civic Si coupes 2008, 2011, 2014, 2018, and 2020, as well as a 2019 Type R.

That’s ~200 hp - 305 hp. Dynos have shown the numbers to be fairly accurate.

This car is way higher on the Type R end of apparent power. I know it’s light and different in numerous ways, but I’ve had 26 cars and driven countless sports cars, and I can do a pretty good butt dyno test if I know the weight of the car. This car feels like a quoted 250 hp at the flywheel car, if not 260. Runs great and I’m very, very pleasantly surprised. Disclaimer: I have a GR86, but they’re the same to me.
I definitely agree that it’s making around 250-260 hp at the crank. It’s also probably making around 210-220 tq. I had a type r just before my 2022 BRZ and they’re really not too far off in acceleration feel.
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Old 04-02-2022, 04:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by TariqRG View Post
Kept the revs below 4000, avoid idling or constant engine speed, lots of variety in rpm, engine load & vacuum. Always let the oil get up to temp before bringing the load and RPMs up. Keep an eye on your oil level because it will consume a little bit during the initial break-in. Oil changed after 1000kms and start sending it.
I wonder if one that's broken in hard from the beginning would make a bit more power (or less).
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Old 04-02-2022, 05:16 PM   #23
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They've clearly made strides with the new motor. Hopefully it doesn't have the same tuning issues in hotter weather that the fa20 did.
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Old 04-04-2022, 10:15 AM   #24
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I'm really starting to wonder now if Subaru/Toyota intentionally sandbagged the horsepower number for insurance reasons (lower premiums potentially) and to not step on the toes of the 4 cylinder Supra.
Not sure it is sandbagging, but maybe some other regulatory hoops they need to jump through.

A few years ago I was on GTI forum and there was a similar discussion because the MK6 seemed to generate 10~20HP more than it was officially rated. It was mentioned that German law stated you had to use the numbers from the lowest tested engine, not the average of multiple tested engines, or the highest. If true, it explains why the Germans always seem to slightly underrate their HP numbers. Maybe the Japanese are taking a similar path?
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Old 04-04-2022, 11:20 AM   #25
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I read a comment somewhere (maybe here, so apologies if I'm stealing someone's thunder on this) that made a lot of sense to me. Over the life of the car, it might lose a few horses every year as they have to keep retuning to hit evolving emissions standards. Instead of changing the output every year, they pegged the numbers at what the last MY will have. So the earlier in the life you get one, the more "bonus power" it'll have. Thoughts? Made sense to me...

And not stepping on the baby Supra...
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Old 04-04-2022, 11:37 AM   #26
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I read a comment somewhere (maybe here, so apologies if I'm stealing someone's thunder on this) that made a lot of sense to me. Over the life of the car, it might lose a few horses every year as they have to keep retuning to hit evolving emissions standards. Instead of changing the output every year, they pegged the numbers at what the last MY will have. So the earlier in the life you get one, the more "bonus power" it'll have. Thoughts? Made sense to me...

And not stepping on the baby Supra...

Ive worked with engine development and that's not something that would ever happen. Though the engines we made were calibrated so even the worst engine tolerances would meet the power on the badge. Subaru seemed to do the opposites with the gen 1s at least 😂
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Old 04-04-2022, 03:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post

Age, credit, driving history, zip code, miles driven, is it parked in a garage or outside in an apartment complex, etc, etc. And different insurance companies rate all those points differently based on the type of people they want to insure.

When I had my R6 right before I turned 25, my insurance was $125/months. I turned 25, it dropped to $15/month.
You mean it went from $125 per/mo. to $110 per month ??!
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Old 04-11-2022, 12:40 PM   #28
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You mean it went from $125 per/mo. to $110 per month ??!
No I mean it went from 125/mo to 15/mo.

That's how high sportbikes for guys under 25 are priced. When I was riding, I didn't know one guy under 25 (including myself, but that wasn't my fault so it didn't go on my record) that hadn't wrecked their bike at least one time.

And then, even though they aren't particularly expensive (at least back then), they nearly all end up totaled. Bent forks? Frame knicked? Wheel(s) bent? etc. Replacement parts are insanely expensive and there is a high likelihood something else is bent so they don't risk it.

I used to hang out and occasionally help out at K&N Yamaha in Tulsa. One time on a slow saturday when I was there. The parts guy did a little comparison.

A 2006 R6 was right around ~$10k. If you had to buy each individual part and assemble it yourself, all the parts added to up around $35-37k IIRC.
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