Key Fob doesn’t work after windows tinted

[2020BRZtS]

I'm not suggesting they lied. It could have been a product pulled from the wrong shelf, a product returned to the wrong shelf, something like that. Even so, the last 4 cars I have had tinted with standard tint and keyless entry/push start have never had a problem.

Suggestions were on other forums for other cars but the solutions ranged from waiting a few days (something got wet and needs to dry out) to removing the tint.

This is going to sound dumb but did you put anything in the rear wing window or bottom left of the back window like a decal, stuffed animal on the deck lid - anything like that? Were any other services installed even if not at the same time?

[CelicaJoe]

Originally Posted by 2020BRZtS

I'm not suggesting they lied. It could have been a product pulled from the wrong shelf, a product returned to the wrong shelf, something like that. Even so, the last 4 cars I have had tinted with standard tint and keyless entry/push start have never had a problem.

Suggestions were on other forums for other cars but the solutions ranged from waiting a few days (something got wet and needs to dry out) to removing the tint.

This is going to sound dumb but did you put anything in the rear wing window or bottom left of the back window like a decal, stuffed animal on the deck lid - anything like that? Were any other services installed even if not at the same time?

Ah okay. I talked to them about the tint potentially being metallic and she said it couldn’t be that because in the car the remote still won’t work. It’s been a week so it shouldn’t be water because it’s definitely had time to dry and been plenty hot. I do have a small decal on the right hand side of the rear windshield (passenger side) all the way at the bottom but I’ve also had it there for a long time. Can’t think of anything else installed lately. I put a dash came in about a year ago. My rear view mirror connector was left hanging after the tint and so was the dash cam wire, so I had to plug those back in, but nothing has changed otherwise in at least a year

[2020BRZtS]

I wish I had a solution but it's now out of my limited knowledge space. You could try a handful of different batteries in the fob. As @Tcoat mentioned you never know how long they have been on the shelf. When you push a button on the fob does it light up?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by CelicaJoe

to start it I have to start it with my key fob against the button.

Originally Posted by 2020BRZtS

I'm not suggesting they lied. It could have been a product pulled from the wrong shelf, a product returned to the wrong shelf, something like that. Even so, the last 4 cars I have had tinted with standard tint and keyless entry/push start have never had a problem.

Suggestions were on other forums for other cars but the solutions ranged from waiting a few days (something got wet and needs to dry out) to removing the tint.

This is going to sound dumb but did you put anything in the rear wing window or bottom left of the back window like a decal, stuffed animal on the deck lid - anything like that? Were any other services installed even if not at the same time?

Having to hold the key to the start button has nothing to do with tint. You are already in the car. Every symptom is listed in the owners manual as an issue with the fob battery being low.
If changing the battery a couple of times (to rule it out) then I am baffled. Maybe try the second fob?

[CelicaJoe]

Originally Posted by 2020BRZtS

I wish I had a solution but it's now out of my limited knowledge space. You could try a handful of different batteries in the fob. As @Tcoat mentioned you never know how long they have been on the shelf. When you push a button on the fob does it light up?

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Having to hold the key to the start button has nothing to do with tint. You are already in the car. Every symptom is listed in the owners manual as an issue with the fob battery being low.
If changing the battery a couple of times (to rule it out) then I am baffled. Maybe try the second fob?

Yeah I’ve tried a few packs of batteries in both remotes, not to mention I’d be willing to bet the dealer tried one or two because they thought the same thing: has to be the battery. Red light shows on both remotes with all the batteries. Weirdest thing is it works sometimes, very rarely, but twice it randomly started working. Could lock/unlock doors, handle unlock worked, push to start without it close worked. Then next time I got in the car it was back to nothing again. But that was twice out of maybe 40 times since the problem started.

Edit: also can’t thank you guys enough for the help

[EAGLE5]

Unplug the battery. Hold down the brake pedal for 10 seconds to drain. Sit the car for an hour just to be sure. Plug it all back in. Try again.

[CelicaJoe]

Originally Posted by EAGLE5

Unplug the battery. Hold down the brake pedal for 10 seconds to drain. Sit the car for an hour just to be sure. Plug it all back in. Try again.

Don’t have the car now, but especially if the ignition switch doesn’t fix it come Monday I’ll give it a go.

[CelicaJoe]

Ended up being the ignition switch!

[CelicaJoe]

Bringing the thread back with an update: fob stopped working again. Brought to Subaru and here’s what they’re thinking.
They noticed a bad accident on the car fax. Happened in 2017, lost control and car spun hitting a bunch of wooden posts. Driver side curtain and seat airbag deployed. Had the airbag module reset by myairbags, replaced the driver side seat and curtain airbag. I cannot remember if I replaced the seatbelt. Looking back at old records I don’t think I did, but it’s possible. Subaru thinks it could be the wiring harness (quoted me $3k for the repair, part is also on back order until may. She thinks because the ignition switch plugs into that main harness, possibly it’s shorting it out. They tested the switch in another car and said it works fine.
They suggested taking the car to Toyota due to the alarm system being made by Toyota and seeing if they have any insight to potentially avoid such an expensive repair.

Never imagined this could be related to an accident from 5 years ago, anyone have any input?

[soundman98]

i have heard of airbag deployment burning up wires/connectors. though the scenario's i've heard of were all burned up airbag-specific connectors/wires.

wiring harnesses are not fun to replace. if that was the case, could also try looking into locating a junkyard car that was rear-ended or something that you could get the harness out of.

[CelicaJoe]

Originally Posted by soundman98

i have heard of airbag deployment burning up wires/connectors. though the scenario's i've heard of were all burned up airbag-specific connectors/wires.

wiring harnesses are not fun to replace. if that was the case, could also try looking into locating a junkyard car that was rear-ended or something that you could get the harness out of.

Do you think the problem could have been dormant for 5 years and shown up now?

[soundman98]

anything's possible.
most likely only if there was a physical wire breakage, and that broken portion chaffed against another wire to cause the damage.

you are in florida, so it's possible that the heat from the airbag deployment in the wires affected other wires, and then reduced the insulation thickness that the repeated heat/cool cycles of the florida heat did it in the rest of the way.

i just find it weird that they're only speculating that it's the harness because 'the button works in another car'-- should be able to test for that with an ohm meter at both ends of the harness-- both continuity across individual wires(should be near-zero), and also resistance between wires(should be near-infinite).

[CelicaJoe]

Originally Posted by soundman98

anything's possible.
most likely only if there was a physical wire breakage, and that broken portion chaffed against another wire to cause the damage.

you are in florida, so it's possible that the heat from the airbag deployment in the wires affected other wires, and then reduced the insulation thickness that the repeated heat/cool cycles of the florida heat did it in the rest of the way.

i just find it weird that they're only speculating that it's the harness because 'the button works in another car'-- should be able to test for that with an ohm meter at both ends of the harness-- both continuity across individual wires(should be near-zero), and also resistance between wires(should be near-infinite).

It definitely feels like they don’t really want to have anything to do with it at this point. They lay pretty heavily into “this is just a shot in the dark, might not fix it” anytime they come up with a potential solution. And they usually preface it with “this is gonna be expensive” no matter what it is. I’m hoping I’ll be able to determine the cause on my own at least, and take it somewhere else for repairs. But I’m pretty lost at this point. I’m going to open up the head unit space and see if I can see anything physical they might’ve missed tomorrow.

[BlkTrax]

Just out of curiosity, do you have anything plugged into the center console. The Keyless access receiver is right by the shifter. I have seen Inductive phone chargers and other electronic device wires around the console cause exactly what you're dealing with.

One BRZ had a dash cam cig plug that was made so bad it was causing so much interference the keyless access wouldn't start. Unplugged it, started, plug back in, wouldn't start.

I would try and eliminate any aftermarket anything near the center console, or even remove the console and make sure the keyless receiver isn't damaged or partially plugged in.