Automatic Transmission Fluid Cooler. ??

[Weapon86]

Originally Posted by Campo

I'm going from memory because I'm not in front of my own research this second, but did you compare the pressure deltas of the series 1, 6, and 9 Setrab cores? I seem to recall there was good reason to not use the series 1.

Just double check before you buy that one and I'll go back through my data to verify.


Tapatalk - because smoke signals would be too easy.

I havent done any research about pressure deltas of those cores. my main reason for going with the setrab series 1 is due to the limited space inside the fender liner. i have the narrow 25 row series 1.

can you send me the link or post your research? coz if thats the case then i might have to change my cooler core.

[Campo]

I'm still mobile but I found these two PDFs that have good information.

In the first link the number of rows can be found in the part number. 50-1nn-7612 has nn number of rows etc.

Also look at the btu rating of each. I don't think a 25 row series 1 is going to sink enough heat to make the effort worthwhile.


http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oi...ine/index.html

http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/flyer/S...2014%20web.pdf


Tapatalk - because smoke signals would be too easy.

[Weapon86]

Originally Posted by Campo

I'm still mobile but I found these two PDFs that have good information.

In the first link the number of rows can be found in the part number. 50-1nn-7612 has nn number of rows etc.

Also look at the btu rating of each. I don't think a 25 row series 1 is going to sink enough heat to make the effort worthwhile.


http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oi...ine/index.html

http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/flyer/S...2014%20web.pdf


Tapatalk - because smoke signals would be too easy.

Hey thanks for the links. I did see the btu is a bit low compare to the other ones. Im going to try and see if i can still return the setrab i have right now and get a better one that would fit in with the intercooler pipes. Good thing i havent started with the install yet. Lol

[mr blue]

i instilled cooler now manual mode doesn't work any ideas what it could be ?

[Wayno]

Originally Posted by mr blue

i instilled cooler now manual mode doesn't work any ideas what it could be ?

Did you adjust the atf level?

[mr blue]

yes i did

[Stark Performance]

Originally Posted by mr blue

i instilled cooler now manual mode doesn't work any ideas what it could be ?

Please define "doesn't work". Does it not engage manual mode at all and continues to shift automatically? Does the indicator on the dash show that it is in "M" mode? Does it stay in gear and fail to respond to either the paddles or shift lever? Does it fail to do manual override (paddles or lever) when in Drive?

Who installed the cooler and set the fluid level? When you refilled the transmission, did you follow the factory service manual to the "T"? Was the car level when the fluid level was checked? Were you in fluid detection mode with the engine running when you checked the fluid level? What fluid did you use?

Do you normally drive in manual mode? When was the last time you used it before installing the cooler? What kind of driving were you doing when you attempted to use manual mode?

What cooler kit or parts did you install? How were the lines routed? Was the transmission removed prior to or in conjunction with the cooler installation?

Bottom line, is that it could be something simple or something that would have Toyota/Subaru scratching their heads over. So lets start with the basics first.

[mr blue]

Thanks for the reply and for taking an interest in my problem.



Manual mode indicator light is not on in manual mode and shows D on dash. It has no manual mode. All other functions as best as I can tell work fine. Paddles work when in manual mode ,but it will not hold a gear, it shifts automatically and dash shows D.


I installed the cooler. I added the extra amount of fluid (17oz) that the cooler and hoses required.I used Toyota OEM fluid. I have not checked the fluid level (It Seems Complicated) Sounds like it's time to maybe learn how.


Normally I do not drive in manual mode. I drove in manual mode the day before I installed the cooler. I had instilled a AT temperature gauge, at this time everything worked fine.



This the cooler I installed [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029J40G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o00_s00"]Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 4110 TransLife Transmission Oil Cooler Kit - 10,000 GVW: Automotive[/ame] Just in case link doesn't work it's a Flex-A-Lite 4110. Lines were routed directly from the transmission down the right side to cooler that's mounted in front of radiator. Factory cooler has been removed. Transmission has never been removed. Car is 2015 with 2500 miles on it.


I know, I know, people say I should have got a MT, but I really like my AT. But I'm looking forward to getting my manual mode working again.



Thanks again for your help.

[Wayno]

You can't not adjust the fluid level. It's absolutely required. Everything in the transmission is controlled with hydraulics.

[Stark Performance]

No problem.

First off, you definitely need to follow the factory service manual procedure for setting the transmission fluid level. It is a bit more work than old transmissions used to be, but if you follow the procedure to the letter, it is ultimately more precise than a dipstick. There needs to be just the right amount of fluid (not too much to flood the unit and not too little to starve the unit of fluid flow).

Second, I strongly recommend against removing the factory heat exchanger. In reality, it brings the fluid up to the correct operating temperature and does a fair job of keeping it there (unless you are making more power than stock or doing anything other than getting groceries). The operating temperature of the fluid is around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. At that temperature, the viscosity is lower and the valve body was designed for the low viscosity fluid. Remember, automatics are all about fluid flow and pressure to actuate the clutch assemblies, the lock up clutch, etc. etc. The orifices in the valve body were specified by the engineers for the viscosity of the fluid at the proper operating temperature.

Third, most inexpensive cooler cores use a high turbulence core design to maximize heat transfer at low vehicle speeds since they are primarily designed for towing (thus the 10k lb rating). This is a double edge sword that cuts you twice. First, it has a high pressure drop which means there is less pressure left over for your torque converter and lock up clutch. Second, it is extremely effective at shedding heat at low vehicle speeds which means your transmission fluid will never come up to temperature, which increases viscosity which increases pressure drop across the core even more. If you still had the factory heat exchanger in the loop, the negative effect of overcooling your fluid would be mitigated to a small degree.

That all said, your most probable cause of manual mode not working is incorrect fluid level and possibly insufficient pressure in the system as a result of the overcooling and high pressure drop. Start with setting the fluid level and see if that solves it. If that doesn't resolve the issue, then reinstall the factory heat exchanger so that fluid passes through the factory unit AFTER your cooler. If you still have a problem after all that, then disconnect the aftermarket cooler and retest. If the problem persists, then you may have damaged something inside the transmission and you'll need to take it to the dealer for further diagnosis and repair.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

-Mike

Originally Posted by mr blue

Thanks for the reply and for taking an interest in my problem.



Manual mode indicator light is not on in manual mode and shows D on dash. It has no manual mode. All other functions as best as I can tell work fine. Paddles work when in manual mode ,but it will not hold a gear, it shifts automatically and dash shows D.


I installed the cooler. I added the extra amount of fluid (17oz) that the cooler and hoses required.I used Toyota OEM fluid. I have not checked the fluid level (It Seems Complicated) Sounds like it's time to maybe learn how.


Normally I do not drive in manual mode. I drove in manual mode the day before I installed the cooler. I had instilled a AT temperature gauge, at this time everything worked fine.



This the cooler I installed Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 4110 TransLife Transmission Oil Cooler Kit - 10,000 GVW: Automotive Just in case link doesn't work it's a Flex-A-Lite 4110. Lines were routed directly from the transmission down the right side to cooler that's mounted in front of radiator. Factory cooler has been removed. Transmission has never been removed. Car is 2015 with 2500 miles on it.


I know, I know, people say I should have got a MT, but I really like my AT. But I'm looking forward to getting my manual mode working again.



Thanks again for your help.

[mr blue]

Thanks Mike, for the very detailed possibilities that could be causing my problem. First thing I'll do, is master the art of checking the fluid level. Then through process of elimination I'll work backwards towards the stock configuration. Once I'm satisfied the fluid level is correct, I'll disconnect the cooler hoses at the transmission and just put a loop between the in and out. Hopefully between here and there we learn something.....and manual mode starts working. One more question, have you personally seen or heard of a transmission working perfect, except no manual mode? Thanks again for your time and input. I'll keep you posted.

[snidd111]

If you find some tips and tricks for the fluid level let me know please. I got a cooler from the earlier discussions 6 months ago and haven't put it in cause of his much effort it was all going to be.
I was debating calculating the volumes of the new lines and cooler, any fluid lost, and just adding that. But after reading your experience in a bit more hesitant to even try and fudge it

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Wayno]

The process is very simple. RTFM

[snidd111]

I've read the manual and know the process. The key words were tips and tricks. Manuals are often not perfect or realistic guidelines.

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