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10-05-2016, 01:48 PM | #29 |
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10-05-2016, 02:16 PM | #30 |
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10-05-2016, 02:30 PM | #31 |
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10-05-2016, 02:36 PM | #32 |
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10-06-2016, 05:12 AM | #33 |
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I'll throw out a couple of other possibilities even though the problem is probably alignment. I agree with everyone else, but there's a possibility it could be something else.
-put the car on jack stands and inspect the suspension. Make sure nothing is visibly bent. An alignment IS a repair and the alignment can be thrown off by damage. -check your swaybars. A problem with a swaybar can cause the exact symptoms you describe. Check for obvious bends and check the bushings. -check tire wear. Tramlining can be a problem with these cars and when your tires start to wear (esp. if you have never done a tire rotation) they can start to tramline -If you know anything about geometry and you have a yard stick and a bubble level, you can do a crude alignment check yourself. If a tire is WAY off you'll see and you can take the wheel off and really look under the car and see what got bent. |
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11-20-2020, 09:11 AM | #34 | |
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Quote:
The upper arm of the rear suspension was showing significant wear on the bushings and joints which will allow the wheels to wiggle under loads. It may not be apparent in inspections on a lift or jack stands as the upper link is canted enough to not allow it to wiggle much at all when the wheels are drooping. But removal shows clearly loose joint at the hub. This is on a 70,000 mile old car typically and is something common to cars that have decent grip tires, and in the roads of the USA where pavement is rough. It's also typical in most cars, but FRS/BRZ is especially sensitive to such wear as the car is so responsive to driver feel. Also can be said for front lower arms and its king pin joint, steering outer arm ball joint, as well as steering rack mount bushings too. Though the effects might be less apparent in freeways, a replacement of these parts, will refresh the car to that nice taught laser sharp feel again. What's happening is that even with pin-sharp alignment done at static state on a rack, as soon as it sees deceleration or acceleration on the highway at speeds, the wheels either toe out or in, and steers the car left and right under different throttle loads. This because even with the steering and toe arms holding the wheels tight, the upper joint at the rear is still allowing tires to change alignment at the root mount. Same can happen with front lower joint but it seems to be much more annoying and apparent when rear wheels steer out of alignment as it does so without any steering feedback. Hope this helps.
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11-20-2020, 12:41 PM | #35 |
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It helps tremendously! As always, thank you for sharing.
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11-20-2020, 11:57 PM | #36 |
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I've experienced this issue, and it was due to having excessive toe (either in or out) on the rear of the car. If you have adjustable toe arms, I'd check to make sure that their mount points are fully tight, that the bushings for the toe arms are in good condition, and verify that you don't have excessive toe. What is excessive is kinda subjective, but I'd think that anything more than 1/8 in in either direction from zero might be too much. The more adjust-ability you might have from aftermarket rear suspension parts makes identifying where the issue might be originating from more difficult. If all else fails, I'd suggest starting with factory lengths on any adjustable parts first to see if you still have issues.
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11-21-2020, 11:40 AM | #37 | |
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05-30-2021, 11:48 AM | #38 |
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Another addition since enough time passed since the last update.
I've come across a similar situation 20,000 miles after the last post and doing all that. This time, the culprit was the rear subframe bushings. They were getting loose enough to rock the car upon up and down motions cresting over bumps on highway road surface. Replace these crossmember bushings or add rigid collars available to reinforce the four bushings. Problem solved, once again. These cars are sensitive to alignment changes. Yes.
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