10-09-2015, 01:03 AM | #9563 |
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I'll try this next time when I fuel up, thank Sojhinn and DAEMANO
And I have another question to ask that is there any tune for EL header for OFT ?only see tune for OFH which is UEL header, and if I pay shiv to make me a custom tune, will he able to squeeze out couple of HP ? |
10-09-2015, 01:07 AM | #9564 | |
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Quote:
PS. here's a preview of my latest tune versus an OFT ESC tune's Exhaust "safe" tables.
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10-09-2015, 01:26 PM | #9565 |
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Alrighty, so I finally took the FR-S down to the one and only Dyno in town.
I found out two things today: 1. They sell E85 at $4 a gallon. 2. They have severely dropped in quality since I last brought it in. They didn't use a fan for air flow, didn't record torque, and didn't really seem to care which was a far cry from around 6 months ago. Anyways, without further ado: Old: New: Notes: - I need to find a decent shop that cares about JDM cars. - With airflow to the setup I'm assuming I could easily hit 200 WHP. - This was using @KoolBRZ's best ever tune and his old Cool Truescale Procede Map. - The horsepower curve shows that you can easily tell when the Procede tells the motor to back off, which is neat. All in all, I'm still super happy with the Procede. Less so with the state of shops in town. |
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10-09-2015, 09:44 PM | #9566 | |
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Quote:
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10-09-2015, 11:01 PM | #9567 |
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Try these, Versions 2 and 3 of A00D, A01D, B01D, and D00D
I named these OTB for Outside The Box. I tested out version 2 just this afternoon. It was by far the best. Verson 3 might be a bit better. It's got more torque from idle all the way up. Runs good with or without the ESC turned on. Shifts well in Drive or in manual modes. Gets good mileage while cruising, if you can keep your foot out of it. It's definitely more fun to drive. This isn't Best Ever, it's simply Best OTB, (Outside The Box). Compare pics of my Best OTB V2 Exhaust with a pic of an OFT OTS Exhaust map.
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Last edited by KoolBRZ; 01-03-2016 at 05:58 PM. |
10-10-2015, 05:47 PM | #9568 |
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Keep up the good work, still checking in regularly.
Found the correct cable for the procede to make sure it is ready. Any chance delivery of international orders will start this year ? Have been keeping $$ ready separate for 7 months in case the magic pm pops up. Thinking of buying a drone, rc drift car or something to keep me bouncing of the walls waiting for this |
10-10-2015, 09:47 PM | #9569 |
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Has anyone tried these yet? Which do you prefer, V2 or V3? I would always feel a kind of flat spot around 3000 RPM's when revving up under low throttle. I could only bypass it by giving it lots of throttle. With this tune however, I don't feel the flat spot anymore.
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10-14-2015, 02:22 PM | #9570 | |
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Quote:
I may switch to V3 in a day or so. I've just been busy with things and pretty content with your previous OFT tune and your old "cool" truescale map for the ESC. Still my favorite in terms of boost delivery, but I haven't really checked the more recent ones so maybe I should :p |
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10-19-2015, 02:50 PM | #9571 |
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What is the actual 0-60 with this system?
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10-19-2015, 07:16 PM | #9572 |
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0-60 used to be "JESUS!! Come on!!"
Now it's "WHOAH! I'm doing 68 already?!?!" I know you're looking for actual numbers, but for me at least, numbers only mean so much. I'm sure someone will come on and give you some concrete numbers (and it WILL be significantly better), but from a "feels" perspective it's great.
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10-19-2015, 07:33 PM | #9573 |
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Mfgs of performance mods usually don't publish/promise road performance specs as they are usually dependent on conditions (atmospheric, and road), driver (skill, technique, willingness to abuse the car), and equipment on the car (transmission, gearing, tires, clutch, tune, etc.)
Power results are published in the form of dyno sheets. So lets say if you have a v2 kit running on CA91 or 93 you might get about 200whp / 185 lb/ft wtq. My car has been dyno'd at 233 whp / 2007 wtq on e85 at sea level on a hot/humid day. There are plenty of other dyno sheets published for different configurations that can give you an idea of how much power would be produced. You can then extrapolate performance of your specific car, skill, etc from there. You can even use a "tool" like this if you like http://www.060calculator.com/ . Just make sure to convert WHP to BHP before putting your numbers in (in this car add ~+16.5% to get whp from bhp and 12% to get the torque number (this is totally unscientific btw)). |
10-19-2015, 09:22 PM | #9574 |
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Greetings all. I am happy to report that after a year and two days, I am the proud owner of one of the Version 3 Phantom ESC kits and installed it this past weekend. Like many others, I am using Open Flash Tablet as my tuning platform and I purchased a PROcede controller. I also have the full throttle switch (FTS) as a backup to the PROcede controller if needed. I got a chance engage the system a few times while driving around and it was definitely a blast, however, I did have a few hiccups and some outstanding issues I am trying to sort out, so perhaps some other owners can chime in.
Part I – ESC with FTS I first installed the system with the FTS (i.e., I didn't do anything with the PROcede or the ECU) and set it to engage at accelerator pedal position that was just shy of full throttle, so perhaps 90% to 95%. Like others have reported, I ended up trimming the large tube that connects to the airbox and the intake side of the ESC in order to get it lined up with the manifold intake. After the ESC was installed, but before I flashed my ECU to one of the off-the-shelf tunes from the OFT website, I turned the ignition to the ON mode, but didn't start the engine so that I could listen for the startup sequence of beeps from the ESC. I heard the beeps and the ESC started spinning up (I assume this is the drag reduction?) and I also heard a softer sort of scratchy electrical sound that appear to come from directly below the manifold cover. The best way I can describe it is that it is the kind of sound a small electrical motor might make if it is having trouble doing something or has the wrong voltage. I wasn't sure if the scratchy electrical noise was normal so I checked Sohjinn's video and could almost convince myself that I could hear the same sound from his car, but it was difficult to tell for sure. I checked the voltage on my Odyssey battery and it was steady at 12.41VDC, so it didn't appear to be a result of a low starter battery voltage.I turned off the ignition, pulled the outlet of the ESC out of the tubing and rotated the ESC upward while it was still attached to the airbox. I turned the ignition back to the ON mode, got the beeps, the scratchy electrical noise, and the ESC spun up again. I tried to put my hand over the outlet of the ESC to see how strong the airflow was and there was a fairly modest pressurization occuring. It definitely wasn’t full speed since I had a friend subsequently engage the FTS and, boy oh boy does that thing blast some air!!! Anyway, I turned off the ignition and subsequently flashed my ECU with the 93 Oct ESC 2.0 off-the-shelf tune, as downloaded from the OFT website. After flashing the ESC, I again put the ignition in the ON mode, heard the beeps and the same scratchy electrical noise, but this time, no ESC spin up. I'm not sure what to make of the lack of ESC spin up the second time around given that there is no direct communication between the ESC and the ECU. Well, I embraced my child-like sense of adventure, threw caution to the wind and started up my car anyway. All was well and I convinced myself that a test drive would be okay. I tried out engaging the system, and only after the engine was above about 4,000 RPM and loved it every time. I was still concerned that perhaps the ESC wasn't engaging the drag reduction. I did notice during my test drive that I lost the on-dash gear indication. Perhaps I loosened a connection when I was installing the FTS or when I removed the lower plastic panels on sides of the center console? Part II – ESC with PROcede Controller I followed Sohjinn’s install video for the PROcede controller, which appears to include a different version of the PROcede than what I have. Mine appears to be similar to that of j_Zer0 (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...39719&page=412) in that it has an RS232 serial connector and a radio jack connected to a black wire. The two green and the one red wires appear to be the same as the one in Sohjinn’s video. I connected the green wires to the ECU appropriately, tapped the red power connection to the power for the ESC display gauge, and grounded out the ring connector, all as shown in the video. In the ESC kit I received, there was a bag labeled “Procede” with a small connector with a single red wire that fits in the socket for the FTS. I soldered a connection from the remaining black wire on the PROcede to the red wire with the small connector as this seemed like the correct thing to do after reading through the build thread about it (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...39719&page=415), and there wasn't really anything else to connect to that made any sense. I unplugged the FTS from the ESC controller and plugged in the connector for the PROcede. Unfortunately, when I went out for my test drive, the ESC never actuated so at this point I'm wondering if I incorrectly connected the black signal wire from the PROcede or if one of my soldering connections was bad (although I did get every connection soldered to the point where I could pull on it pretty good without it breaking off). Also, I assumed that the PROcede controller came pre-programed, at least that is everything that I've read, but is it possible it didn't get programed and doesn't have a throttle map? Other Observations I noticed that when using the 93 Oct ESC 2.0 map, there was a noticeably more raspy sound from the engine (not exhaust) around 3,500 RPM to 4,500 RPM when under modest to heavy loads. After flashing back to stock and replacing the ESC with the stock intake, the raspiness went away, so I'm curious to know if anyone else notices a difference Outstanding Questions / Issues 1. Should I expect the ESC to spin up when the ignition is in ON mode and, if so, does it spin up a decent amount, as I described above? 2. Why did I lose my on-dash gear indication? 3. Did I get my PROcede connections correct? 4. Does my PROcede controller maybe not have a map programmed into it? 5. Is it normal for the 93 Oct ESC 2.0 OTS tune to sound a little raspy around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM? 6. Am I missing something or does the version of the PROcede controller with the RS232 serial connector not have the ability to be completely separated from the car and hooked up to a computer to adjust throttle map tuning? The PROcede controller in Sohjinn's install video seemed to have the ability to do that Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
10-19-2015, 09:36 PM | #9575 | |
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First off congrats and welcome to the club. 1)the esc should never spin up without throttle input. A wire must have been misplaced on your fts switch. 2) When you flashed the on board computer it resets all settings. Just follow the steps to reactivate the gear indicator. 3) Probably. Did you flash anyone's tune into the procede? If so we need to change a channel on it. 4) if you didn't load anything? Let's Load one in! 5) yup! That's an interesting side effect of almost all the tunes. 6) when I'm modifying my throttle mapping I have a usb connected to my procede that goes to my laptop. For your version of the procede you would need a rs232 to usb wire. And just leave it connected and run the wire to your glove box. By doing that you can view what's happening to your procede as you are driving. This will also helps us if it's your taps or the procede being incorrectly set. Also triple check your connections at the controller: specifically the rc jr connectors. (The connectors labeled for procede/ fts throttle switch.) Make sure the color wires line up correctly. Let us know how it goes. --Sojhinn Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-20-2015, 01:08 AM | #9576 |
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Look what finally came back! Probably don't have time to install it until Sunday though
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