CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Decep]

I'd just do the SS1s. Bite the bullet and do it once and do it right.

[tekno]

I've been reading the old stories about the Whiteline Com C strut mounts that were clunking. It's been almost 10 years, did they ever sort them out?


L.E.
Probably no, checked their website, com c's are not listed as compatible with brz/86...

[2.slowbrz]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Depends imo on condition of current suspension and chassis parts. Sounds like you have a few things to go through and check, do that first and a set of drivable street tires. Then see if budget allows for freshening up and purchase of replacement suspension.

- Andrew

Thank you! Brake fluid (RBF660) and pads (considering DTC 60s) hopefully this weekend.

Would stock wheels, stock height/suspension, 215/45R17’s, a tire like an RS4, camber bolts(ordered), rear LCAs (ordered) and alignment be overwhelming the stock dampers/springs? Or making for large amounts of body roll?

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by 2.slowbrz

Thank you! Brake fluid (RBF660) and pads (considering DTC 60s) hopefully this weekend.

Would stock wheels, stock height/suspension, 215/45R17’s, a tire like an RS4, camber bolts(ordered), rear LCAs (ordered) and alignment be overwhelming the stock dampers/springs? Or making for large amounts of body roll?

You won’t overwhelm the stock suspension with those tires and some camber. The cars gonna come alive compared to OEM.

To an extent, you want the body roll. It’s another medium of communication.

I ran standard ride height up until this year with much stickier rubber than RS4s, and was pretty close to higher class cars with just a good alignment and tires.

Tons of grip and stroke (roll), but the car felt amazing in all conditions, at any speed, under any load.

Granted…this was with slightly uprated sway bars and suspension from a TS.






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[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by tekno

I've been reading the old stories about the Whiteline Com C strut mounts that were clunking. It's been almost 10 years, did they ever sort them out?


L.E.
Probably no, checked their website, com c's are not listed as compatible with brz/86...

Just the Pedders units instead. Ran those hard for 2 years and had zero issues. Some extra caster was an added bonus.


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[2.slowbrz]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

You won’t overwhelm the stock suspension with those tires and some camber. The cars gonna come alive compared to OEM.

To an extent, you want the body roll. It’s another medium of communication.

I ran standard ride height up until this year with much stickier rubber than RS4s, and was pretty close to higher class cars with just a good alignment and tires.

Tons of grip and stroke (roll), but the car felt amazing in all conditions, at any speed, under any load.

Granted…this was with slightly uprated sway bars and suspension from a TS.






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Awesome thank you very much! Excited to see how the car feels with the basics!

[Tokay444]

I just went from tS dampers and TRD lowering springs with TRD sway bars and RE-71Rs/R-S4s to RCE Tarmac 2, TRD sway bars, and R-S4, and the biggest difference for me is the low speed damping control. There is a series of undulations in a high speed corner that I'm quite intimate with, that would upset the rear of the car on the stock suspension (dampers, springs, bars) and the tS setup mentioned above, that would detract from the overall confidence I had in the car. The RCEs have tamed these bumps right up and really let the tires do their job through this corner without the rear end feeling like it's rolling over ocean swells.

[Lincoln Logs]

Originally Posted by RM_2

Hi everyone. I have a 2016 BRZ (32k miles) that I started tracking this year, and I'm in need of some advice. Current suspension is stock aside from camber bolts up front. I seem to have made a mistake putting Falken RT615K+ on the car for track duty because high speed corners introduce a lot of body roll. I didn't have that much of an issue on old BFG UHPs at Putnam Park...At Mid Ohio (club layout with the chicane before the Keyhole), the body roll wasn't confidence inspiring and made me lift more than I probably needed to. I don't commute, so when I do drive, it is for fun or for a quick errand. I won't drive this car in the winter. I'm looking for something that isn't going to need endless tweaking but can handle track duty and a backroad drive. Roads around me are decent but occasionally bumpy enough to upset the car if I'm pushing too hard.

Here are the options I'm thinking about:
1. Lowering springs on stock struts and mounts (RCE Yellow?).
2. RCE Yellow + Bilstein B6 + Pedders top mounts (almost decent coilover money)
3. RCE Superstreet or something along those lines.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on what I should do at this point. I have one more track day planned for September. Next year I plan to do at least 5 track days. Thanks, y'all!

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Get the SS1, I've had quite a few different set ups and the SS1 are the most impressive for the money. You can barely notice the camber plates in terms of NVH and they ride GREAT.

[RM_2]

That's another vote for the SS1 then. Time to save up!

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[Decep]

Mine were great and after 35-40k miles felt about the same as when i first put them on. Maybe a bit rougher. But the top hats i only heard once or twice when hitting sharp bumps at too high of speed. It's kind of a metallic noise rather than a big thump. Definitely would use KW based product again especially one custom tuned for the platform.

[ric342]

Hey guys, need some help, let me start off with the mods entailed in this most recent update.
KW v3
vorshlag top hats for the front
spl outer tie rod end
megan inner tie rod ends
spl sway bar end links front
spl toe arms
spl trailing arms

Now, prior to the install I had RSR isport moto spec coils that I had installed myself and had Raceline corner balanced the car. The reason for the change was that the RSR coils were 10 years old and wanted to upgrade to kw, all the other parts were added on to refresh the suspension. I went ahead and installed all the parts and due to it being my first time trying to adjust ride height I just went with what I thought was closest to stock height, doing so made me have to adjust a few things. My sway bar end links are fully adjustable and I have no clue what I should put the length to, partly because what was on there prior which was the perrin solid end links. I attempted to align the car and the rear was able to be put within spec, but the fronts camber is outside of its tolerances, too negative. To stop myself from rambling on I'll list my questions and hope that I can get some advice.
1. Would adjusting the swaybar end link be the issue with the camber being out, or is it just that the ride height is the issue.
2. I do not want the car at stock ride height, after lowering to desired height, what camber specs should I be looking to get. I had it at -1.0 in the front and -1.6 in the rear.(reference, I daily the car and have had it for over 10 years.)
3. I live in Ventura county and have called multiple shops and none of them corner balance, I know that Counterspace garage might be able to help, but they are 70 miles away from me. Anyone know of anybody local that is good.
4. Should I just get it towed to a specialty shop and have them tune it, I just installed the Potenza re-71rs and dont want them to burn out.
Any input would be appreciated.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ric342

Hey guys, need some help, let me start off with the mods entailed in this most recent update.
KW v3
vorshlag top hats for the front
spl outer tie rod end
megan inner tie rod ends
spl sway bar end links front
spl toe arms
spl trailing arms

Now, prior to the install I had RSR isport moto spec coils that I had installed myself and had Raceline corner balanced the car. The reason for the change was that the RSR coils were 10 years old and wanted to upgrade to kw, all the other parts were added on to refresh the suspension. I went ahead and installed all the parts and due to it being my first time trying to adjust ride height I just went with what I thought was closest to stock height, doing so made me have to adjust a few things. My sway bar end links are fully adjustable and I have no clue what I should put the length to, partly because what was on there prior which was the perrin solid end links. I attempted to align the car and the rear was able to be put within spec, but the fronts camber is outside of its tolerances, too negative. To stop myself from rambling on I'll list my questions and hope that I can get some advice.
1. Would adjusting the swaybar end link be the issue with the camber being out, or is it just that the ride height is the issue.
2. I do not want the car at stock ride height, after lowering to desired height, what camber specs should I be looking to get. I had it at -1.0 in the front and -1.6 in the rear.(reference, I daily the car and have had it for over 10 years.)
3. I live in Ventura county and have called multiple shops and none of them corner balance, I know that Counterspace garage might be able to help, but they are 70 miles away from me. Anyone know of anybody local that is good.
4. Should I just get it towed to a specialty shop and have them tune it, I just installed the Potenza re-71rs and dont want them to burn out.
Any input would be appreciated.

1. What do you mean by the "camber being out"? What is your alignment at right now?
2. How low are you planning on going? Is the car strictly a daily driver or is there track/autox time? I'm confused why you went with the aftermarket inner and outer tie rods?
3. Corner balancing is nice, not required for a daily driver IMO.
4. A specialty shop is a good idea. You have a lot of adjustment and specialty parts...a suspension tuner is a good call.

With those parts and those tires, I'd expect a more aggressive alignment. -1.0 is nothing and is leaving a lot on the table with those tires.

- Andrew

[MyHybridBurnsGasAndTires]

Hey RCE when are the 22 GR/BRZ yellow springs coming out? im ready to buy

[ric342]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

1. What do you mean by the "camber being out"? What is your alignment at right now?
2. How low are you planning on going? Is the car strictly a daily driver or is there track/autox time? I'm confused why you went with the aftermarket inner and outer tie rods?
3. Corner balancing is nice, not required for a daily driver IMO.
4. A specialty shop is a good idea. You have a lot of adjustment and specialty parts...a suspension tuner is a good call.

With those parts and those tires, I'd expect a more aggressive alignment. -1.0 is nothing and is leaving a lot on the table with those tires.

- Andrew

1. It seems that even though I have all these adjustable parts the camber cant be put to oe specs. Not that im going to leave the camber at 0 degrees or -1, but my worry is that if I cannot adjust to oe that there is something wrong with the install.
2. The car is daily driven with some track and autox, I went with aftermarket tie rods after reading am article that Moto miwa posted talking about how after 5 years regardless of miles a person should swap them out to keep the steering wheel feeling tight. With that said I opted to go with an upgrade instead of keeping the oe.
3. Ya I know, but I wanna do it right.
4. I have the car at Chewerks right now, hopefully they get it back to me in better shape.
thanks for the quick response btw. Any input on the end link length, was looking everywhere for info and found nothing.