Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by mrg666

It is *really* fine. I will not retune.

yeah, no big deal

maybe if you have Ecutek Blurtooth EVI, you can ask the tuner to build a timing slider for you in the ecutek app
Maybe also a knock alert with the CEL blinking on dash

you can then have more torque on demand, if you are now tuned for a catted header


Catless header enjoy less overlap (less cam advance, less cam retard) at high rpm while catted like more overlap.. but again no big deal
but keep in mind that when boosted, this kind of exhaust upgrades are more effective than on a NA car, it s pretty noticeable if well tuned

i wrote just for info, i m ok with you keeping oem jrsc tune... i read that last part just after,
i actually thought you had a tune from CSG Garage, sorry about that

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

yeah, no big deal

maybe if you have Ecutek Blurtooth EVI, you can ask the tuner to build a timing slider for you in the ecutek app
Maybe also a knock alert with the CEL blinking on dash

you can then have more torque on demand, if you are now tuned for a catted header


Catless header enjoy less overlap (less cam advance, less cam retard) at high rpm while catted like more overlap.. but again no big deal
but keep in mind that when boosted, this kind of exhaust upgrades are more effective than on a NA car, it s pretty noticeable if well tuned

I still have a catted stock header (just upgraded to 2017+). Only the second cat was removed. I have edited my previous post to mention my experience with one of those tuners. I don't have the patience to go through that again. JR provides a really great tune from the beginning anyway. I want to stick with it.

[tomm.brz]

if you are happy, that s already good enough

in that case, if you have stock header, the tune does t need t change much, the first cat is still there blocking everything
when i switched to *Only* catless front pipe (all rest stock) while still NA i barely could rise timing from 5.5 to 6.5-7k rpm.. with supercharger it s similar behaviour
as you said, at least you gain in knock relief

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

your in-house tuner keeps CL fuel control active it won t run leaner or richer, maybe just transiently because of the integral/proportional corrections, but anyway afr is going to be quite spot on all the time

only bad things I would think of about upgrading to catless without returning, is the performance left on the table
ecu won t rise ign timing more than it is allowed to, and cam timings could be made more aggressive and with less overlap at higher rpm
also at lower rpm and loads it could need some fix

We're referring to the factory tune. There is no "custom" to the factory tune.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mrg666

There is a MAF sensor for that purpose. There is no such assumption.

The MAF sensor is maxed out with the factory tune long before you hit peak boost or redline.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ybotspawn

Correction map sensor, different principle entirely. I’m not going to attempt to debate you on what you’re doing and why it’s bad. Generally though I tend to believe guys like @ know more than I do. Good luck with the ticking time.... ummm motor


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The MAP sensor is also maxed out before redline or peak boost with the factory tune.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

maf doesn t pick up all the airflow differences, specially if there are unexpected changes of volumetric efficiency
Also, it relies entirely to a pre-set scaling

Primary lambda is what catches AFR fluctuations
but the ecu must be in a closed loop mode (either stock logic, or ecutek CL fuel control) to take action and correct that AFR to follow the target

CSG Mike maybe forgot, but the master tuner of his company is already enabling closed loop mode all the time at all rpm

We are strictly referring to the factory tune.

[tomm.brz]

@CSG Mike
i'm sorry

i really thought it was tuned by you, my mistake

[CSG Mike]

@tomm.brz no worries; it's easy to get mixed up with a thread that's going quickly.

for those reading the thread:

tl;dr factory tune works on assumptions of a universally identical setup, which is why deviating will potentially make your car not run right. A GOOD custom tune will always yield more power and more reliability when you add supporting mods.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The MAF sensor is maxed out with the factory tune long before you hit peak boost or redline.

So are you replacing the MAF sensor with your custom tune?You don't, right? That MAF sensor is still maxed out in a custom tune. At high boost, does your custom tune rely on MAP sensor instead?

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@tomm.brz no worries; it's easy to get mixed up with a thread that's going quickly.

for those reading the thread:

tl;dr factory tune works on assumptions of a universally identical setup, which is why deviating will potentially make your car not run right. A GOOD custom tune will always yield more power and more reliability when you add supporting mods.

Are you saying that factory tune is not good? How much more power and reliability you are offering with a custom tune on the stock configuration of JRSC? Can you please specify?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mrg666

So are you replacing the MAF sensor with your custom tune?You don't, right? That MAF sensor is still maxed out in a custom tune. At high boost, does your custom tune rely on MAP sensor instead?

This is why an aftermarket MAP is required for a CSG tune. Without it (or a MAF upgrade), there is no way to measure air.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mrg666

Are you saying that factory tune is not good? How much more power and reliability you are offering with a custom tune on the stock configuration of JRSC? Can you please specify?

The factory tune is perfectly reliable. I'm saying MORE power can be unlocked with a custom tune without compromising reliability.

[stacyu18]

for anyone thinking about installing the c38 supercharger by yourself let me tell you that it is no easy process. I work on cars for a living and know what i am doing but to the normal person it will be a bitch. the best thing to do is break it down into days.day 1 take off the tires,fender wells,the under cover then the bumper.day 2 install the super charger. day 3 install the inter cooler and piping for me this was the most time consuming job due to the fact you had to make sure that the piping was set well enough that you could fit your headlights in and make sure that you have a screw gun or electric screwdriver and tape measure this will help a hell of alot. day 4 install the oil cooler and lines. day 5 install the tune check all hoses for leaks make sure that nothing is going to rub the fans or engine to burn anything and take car for test drive. day 6 if all is good and car is not leaking reinstall the bumper,fender wells,under cover and make sure that you didn't forget anything. some people may just say or take it to a shop to have done,well you can do that also but a extra 1000 dollars is a lot to some people.so i hope this help some people out. good luck on your adventure if you do it yourself.BTW each day maybe up to 3 hours.