Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Haha, not a big deal really, I just find it annoying that you have to undo 8 tiny button head screws (that you can easily drop to the undertray if not careful) to open it up to get access to the air filter or anything under it.

This is for the edelbrock kit I'm assuming?

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by brianhj

This is for the edelbrock kit I'm assuming?

Yes, Edelbrock.

[scraejtp]

Got my kit installed and running on my '13. Faster than any stock minivan now, which is a plus. Running the Edelbrock carb tune; will probably stick with it for a while.

Notes:
Those rear LTR hoses on the supercharger are a bitch.
I didn't realize I would need to remove the factory hood insulation until seeing it in install instructions. Not really happy with removing it, definitely feels less OEM. Edited*

[Freude am Fahren]

Quick Poll: For self-installers, how many were able to do it solo? I've seen lifting the SC onto the car is a two person job, but does it have to be?

[scraejtp]

Originally Posted by Freude am Fahren

Quick Poll: For self-installers, how many were able to do it solo? I've seen lifting the SC onto the car is a two person job, but does it have to be?

I solo installed except for this part, had my wife help out. No way you can lift it and set in place without damaging on your own.

If you winch it from the ceiling, you could do it yourself if you were slow/careful.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by scraejtp

I didn't realize I would need to remove the factory hood insulation until seeing it in install instructions. Not really happy with removing it, definitely feels less OEM, and would likely be denied insurance coverage in case of an engine fire.

How do you work that out? The insulation is pretty much there for noise purposes. Don't forget that the insulation will keep the heat in more than with it removed I doubt keeping it would do much in the case of a fire either...

[scraejtp]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

How do you work that out? The insulation is pretty much there for noise purposes. Don't forget that the insulation will keep the heat in more than with it removed I doubt keeping it would do much in the case of a fire either...

It has been my understanding that some blankets are designed to fall off at higher temperatures to attempt to smother and stop/slow and engine fire. After googling some, this seems to rarely be the case however.

[GT86Asia]

Quick update!

I got an OBD 2 reader, and have been monitoring some pid's.

Just daily driving, during mid day, ambient about 80-85F, my Air intake air temp fluctuates between 102-105F while driving. Can easily and quickly go up when I stop. Highest I've seen it is after leaving the car parked for lunch, then getting back in the car, and the temp is like 150F. After riving 5 minutes it will go slowly down to 105.

Oil temps. For daily driving, after reaching normal operating temps, i'm fluctuating betwen 208F to the highest I got was 228F, when driving on the freeway on a 1 minute uphill, and downshifted to 5th.
running 5w40 engine oil.

I've only autocrossed the car, but I didnt have the obd reader then. If I do another autocross or go to streets of willow I will check what that is like temp wise.

btw, I'm not using the edelbrock intake box cuz of the header clearance issue. so its just a 6 inch open cone. And those are the intake temps as I wrote above.

Coolant temp is actually very stable as 190F, it might go up or down 2 degrees, but 95% of the time is just stays at 190F.

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by GT86Asia

Quick update!
...
Coolant temp is actually very stable as 190F, it might go up or down 2 degrees, but 95% of the time is just stays at 190F.

I forgot, but do you have an oil cooler, stock radiator? what's your setup.

[Tomcat07]

Just wanted to post an update about the Jackson Racing dual radiator and oil cooler combo when used with this kit. After installing the weather stripping around the radiator, it did help a little. However the intake was being baked from the back side so much that the IATs were still in the 130 range. I feel like that's just what's going to happen when you run a bigger more efficient radiator. For my the solution was to wrap the intake in foam matting and then aluminum HVAC tape. My IATs are fully back down to what they were before the radiator upgrade. 113-118 on a 95 degree day. It doesn't look pretty, but it works and is definitely a noticeable power recovery. I think a vented hood and a nostril intake on the bumper will help too but for now it's back to normal.

[sato]

Originally Posted by Tomcat07

Just wanted to post an update about the Jackson Racing dual radiator and oil cooler combo when used with this kit. After installing the weather stripping around the radiator, it did help a little. However the intake was being baked from the back side so much that the IATs were still in the 130 range. I feel like that's just what's going to happen when you run a bigger more efficient radiator. For my the solution was to wrap the intake in foam matting and then aluminum HVAC tape. My IATs are fully back down to what they were before the radiator upgrade. 113-118 on a 95 degree day. It doesn't look pretty, but it works and is definitely a noticeable power recovery. I think a vented hood and a nostril intake on the bumper will help too but for now it's back to normal.

We wanna see those pics, no matter how ugly the "baby" is...

[GT86Asia]

Originally Posted by shiumai

I forgot, but do you have an oil cooler, stock radiator? what's your setup.

Stock radiator and no oil cooler

[GT86Asia]

Quick update.

After some time, I thought about a way to change out the intake that I was forced to used when I got my SC installed.

finally after much custom trimming, I was able to fit this in place of the old intake.

Today was my first day using it, and I payed close attention to my air intake temps.

The one thing that was very obvious, was that the fluctuation of temps was must quicker than before.

If I was at 110F, as soon as I pressed the gas, it would almost instantly go down to like 105F. But also the other way around was true. When I stopped on a street light, the temp from also jump up faster.

On the freeway, the air intake temp would go down much faster, and it was averall 5 degrees cooler than before.

In conclusion, i think the larger area does pull air from a larger area in the engine bay. Thus I also think that the intake would cause the air pressure inside the engine bay to be reduced quicker, as the intake has more surface from where to suck air, the pressure would be reduced faster and thus more cooler air was able to come through the radiator.

Since at high speeds, we are dependent on what the air pressure diferential is between the air coming from outside through the radiator, and the air pressure inside the engine bay. If the pressure in the bay is higher than outside, then no cool air gents into the engine bay period.

So having a larger filter area, seems to help in reducing the air pressure inside the engine bay when accelerating as compared to the smaller intake I was using previously.

I guess this is how I'm rationalizing all of this, haha. Anyone wanna pitch in?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by GT86Asia

Anyone wanna pitch in?

- Keep an eye on the AFRs/fueling. It's likely that will change the MAF readings, by how much you'll have to test.

- It's unlikely that you're changing the amount of air that's going into the SC, so the pressure change inside the bay will be minimal/nothing.

- Make a heat shield under the intake, should help with IATs a little from heat from the radiator. The change in IATs is probably due to the flow of air through the filter more than anything else.