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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 09-17-2013, 05:05 PM   #1863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennisfreak View Post
Im interested but skeptical.

This goes against myth busters and countless other videos that have proven its impossible for an electric motor (in a cars engine bay, running on batteries) to produce boost.
With over 100k views and 1800 replies on this thread you got a lot of reading to do

Start with post number one. Dyno Numbers do not lie, it is possible.

This isn't you typical eBay crap, it pulls over 3000 watts and about 200amps peak

Its treated like nos where you only use it at wot

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Old 09-17-2013, 05:08 PM   #1864
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Originally Posted by bfrank1972 View Post
Yah I took a look at your last dyno posted in the thread, you are getting a bigger jump during the dip - your 7000 rpm looks to be a just a bit over 25, maybe 30 lb-ft. You and ThatTruth are at roughly the same altitude?

A side thought - would this system partially compensate for altitude? The thing is trying its hardest to force as much air as it can into the engine - if the air is thinner my intuition says it would at least partially make up for the deficit from altitude - in other words I'm wondering if you guys at altitude will see bigger gains than us at sea level? If that's the case, would the dyno's altitude compensation be optomistic? I'll be interested to see some low altitude dynos soon!
The only thing that helps us at altitude is the electric motor doesn't have to work is hard. You will always make more boost at sea level given a static compressor rpm.

At sea level the HP you make is what you put to the ground. At altitude the HP you make on the dyno is corrected. When I left the dyno in uncorrected mode I made 150hp stock and 180 boosted

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Old 09-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #1865
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Originally Posted by Robftss View Post
Attachment 51579


Thatruth dyno.
Boost from 1800 rpm.
180 ft-lbs @ 2800 rpm
Similar gains to other dyno runs, best @ 4200 rpm
Wonky boost plot.
Nice AFR's Bob!!
looking good!
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #1866
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Originally Posted by Robftss View Post
Attachment 51579


Thatruth dyno.
Boost from 1800 rpm.
180 ft-lbs @ 2800 rpm
Similar gains to other dyno runs, best @ 4200 rpm
Wonky boost plot.
Nice AFR's Bob!!

Keep in mind the intake temps started to run hot during the session prior to the last run. Prior to the break 10+ runs were completed. With that said, the chart posted I believe reflects the last after about a 1 hour break with no prior runs to warm the batteries up. Additionally, the outdoor temp during the session was between 85-90 F.

Additionally after the session I installed the aux battery charger and noticed I had some light corrosion around the ESC batteries. I do not think it really mattered, but just a note.

Personally, I think the car is even faster since the tune has adapted to my driving. Additionally since things have cooled down into the mid-70's in the NW, the unit is really kicking some ass! Which leads me to believe the optimal intake temp to get the most of the unit is roughly between 65 and 80 degrees. I have notice using the torque app the intake temps when moving tend to run approximately 10 to 15 degrees warmer. Once the unit is engage the air measured in via the intake and external thermometers are almost identical. Some here is the million dollar question:

What is the most effective way to control and maintain a constant 65-75 F intake temp?
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:08 PM   #1867
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Million dollar question indeed lol

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Old 09-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #1868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennisfreak View Post
Im interested but skeptical.

This goes against myth busters and countless other videos that have proven its impossible for an electric motor (in a cars engine bay, running on batteries) to produce boost.
There's a difference between a fan and a compressor. A fan isn't capable of creating a pressure ratio.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #1869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatruth2001 View Post
What is the most effective way to control and maintain a constant 65-75 F intake temp?
Have an ESC thermister feedback loop control a 12v servo mixing damper (butterfly valve) with separate intakes (y pipe) one drawing cold bumper air and one drawing warm air near exhaust manifold.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #1870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robftss View Post
Attachment 51579


Thatruth dyno.
Boost from 1800 rpm.
180 ft-lbs @ 2800 rpm
Similar gains to other dyno runs, best @ 4200 rpm
Wonky boost plot.
Nice AFR's Bob!!
Nice! Over 175ft/lb torque from 2500 to almost 6000rpm.

That thing must feel like a blast now.

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Old 09-17-2013, 08:09 PM   #1871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatruth2001 View Post
Keep in mind the intake temps started to run hot during the session prior to the last run. Prior to the break 10+ runs were completed. With that said, the chart posted I believe reflects the last after about a 1 hour break with no prior runs to warm the batteries up. Additionally, the outdoor temp during the session was between 85-90 F.

Additionally after the session I installed the aux battery charger and noticed I had some light corrosion around the ESC batteries. I do not think it really mattered, but just a note.

Personally, I think the car is even faster since the tune has adapted to my driving. Additionally since things have cooled down into the mid-70's in the NW, the unit is really kicking some ass! Which leads me to believe the optimal intake temp to get the most of the unit is roughly between 65 and 80 degrees. I have notice using the torque app the intake temps when moving tend to run approximately 10 to 15 degrees warmer. Once the unit is engage the air measured in via the intake and external thermometers are almost identical. Some here is the million dollar question:

What is the most effective way to control and maintain a constant 65-75 F intake temp?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PowderfaceTr. View Post
Have an ESC thermister feedback loop control a 12v servo mixing damper (butterfly valve) with separate intakes (y pipe) one drawing cold bumper air and one drawing warm air near exhaust manifold.
I see no reason to assume the intake temp needs to be atleast 65 degrees. Just make it as cool as you can and profit.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #1872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowderfaceTr. View Post
Have an ESC thermister feedback loop control a 12v servo mixing damper (butterfly valve) with separate intakes (y pipe) one drawing cold bumper air and one drawing warm air near exhaust manifold.
Or just spend the money on a hyper efficient water/air intercooler.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:34 PM   #1873
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At 11 PM last weekend, Torque measured an intake temperature of a cool 114 F. Lowest I've run so far.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:49 PM   #1874
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At 11 PM last weekend, Torque measured an intake temperature of a cool 114 F. Lowest I've run so far.
Jeeze where do you live??? The sun?

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Old 09-17-2013, 08:51 PM   #1875
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:53 PM   #1876
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Originally Posted by Pug View Post
At 11 PM last weekend, Torque measured an intake temperature of a cool 114 F. Lowest I've run so far.
Soon I will be testing -20c or -4f !

I give it 2 months

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