K24 swap pics, It runs off the BRZ brain!!! Video on page 4&7. VVT enabled now!

[Swift]

Wow. This is what you call progress. I don't know what you do for a day job, but since the market is crashing you should do something on the side in line with what you are doing here.

[wnt3d]

awesome work bud, you've made some serious grounds in what seems like relatively short time. I've started doing a k24 turb swap aswell, but spare time is now non existent with a new born.

For the motor mounting angle, is it still the factory honda 11degrees (or what ever it is to keep the base part of the oil sump horizontal to the floor) or have you tweaked the angle to suit your setup better.

I was considering remaking a new adapter plate to clock the engine completely vertical to allow for more sump clearance due to this. Do you have any pics from underneath showing the sump clearance to cross member and swaybar clearance.

keep up the good work bud

[wnt3d]

I see. I still need to finalise height of the engine and box, to work out the mounts. Will trim the stock pan and mock it all up. Maybe with the rough height where my motor is sitting now, the minimal pan space looked difficult but I’ll address that when I get to it.

** no idea how to rotate the attach image, uploaded it off my phone

[ozne99]

You make me want to do this swap. Looking good!

[nashcarr]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

The sway bar restricts how far you can lower the engine. If you level it out you will gain sway bar clearance but loose hood clearance. The hood insulation sits on the very front of the valve cover the way mine sits.
Oil pan flange is the next thing to hit maybe 1/2 clearance turbo side on mine

I would recommend keeping the lean, my turbo is on the large side and it fits, there is plenty of room for header and down pipe.
In the sway bar picture I would recommend grinding that bolt boss down for a little extra clearance its on the engine.

Some more good info I found by a guess is the white loop on the wiring that is between the turbo and head is for the timing light. Pulley has a tdc 14, 16 and 18 btdc marks

Check out the Miata K Swap (KMiata) Honda valve covers; they have one where the front part is shaved down so the Miata hood closes without having to cut a hole in it like they used to. It MIGHT work for you.


https://kmiata.com/collections/kmiat...er-for-na-hood

[tomm.brz]

Please fix the uploading of your pics!! very curious

[tomm.brz]

don t know, i do not see any of them

[fer3d]

I see the pictures just fine.
Awesome swap BTW!


Enviado desde mi HD1900 mediante Tapatalk

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I don't think I mentioned this but the brz brain does work the vtc on the honda.

How about lift?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

My K24 has vtc and also vtec, vtec changes from low to high cam lobe, its rpm operated which can be triggered by a simple rpm switch like MSD makes.

Yes, so you are saying that the brain doesn’t control it?

[Evil Rocky]

That’s amazing you made it work!!

[mkodama]

[Zer0]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Is there anybody that could help me with arduino to run a bwm electric water pump I bought the hardware. I just want it to run the water pump doesn't need the lcd or flow meters.

https://www.oudevolvo.nl/en/blog/201...o-successfull/

I have used a pwm controller with a knob to control the speed of DC pumps before. I haven't tried an arduino setup though.

[Zer0]

Nice can't wait to see your progress once you get a new pump. Excellent work!