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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 11-26-2021, 12:04 AM   #15
ka-t_240
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Originally Posted by Purist View Post
Holy crap! I swap to track wheels every meet so I've changed my wheels 20-30 times with no issues. Have I been really lucky??

What contributes to the stripping? Overtightening? Work hardening of the threads?

Track failures terrify me

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You're not the only one in this case. I still have all my stock studs from my car. I did swap to ARP for other reasons. My wheels were on/off multiple times over the course of many track weekends/auto-x etc.

I will say that I have never kept stock lug nuts.
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Purist (11-26-2021)
Old 11-26-2021, 12:29 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
i think it's mostly crud getting into the threads.
https://www.boltscience.com/pages/strength.htm

Interesting read.

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Old 11-26-2021, 03:05 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dububster View Post
Alrighty, thanks guys . Yeah, I usually just spin them on with an impact and do the rest with a torque wrench but I guess I won't be doing that anymore
Look up how to replace them. Can be a bit of a pain in the neck, but doable.
While the brake rotor is off, might consider replacing all five studs on that corner.

A couple of "special" tools that come handy to replace studs:
1) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVWHOE/ to push the old stud out (use an impact gun)
2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ to pull the new stud

Pushing the old studs out is easy, but it wasn't trivial to pull the new front studs while the rotor is off. The problem is that the ball bearing just spins whenever you try to apply any significant torque to a lug nut. In the rear you can use the handbrake, but not in the front.
I don't remember how I ended up pulling them, but I think I tried using an impact gun, and the thread on my brand new studs ended up being a bit damaged.

You might consider buying a set of cheap throwaway lug nuts to pull the new stud(s). This way if at any point you apply too much force to the new stud, it's the lug nut that gives.

If you're only going to replace a single stud, you might try putting the rotor and caliper back on, asking a helper to press the brake pedal, and then just turning a lug on the stud with a ratchet.
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Dububster (11-26-2021)
Old 11-26-2021, 03:54 AM   #18
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I appreciate everyone's input. I did it today relatively fast actually, turned out to be easier than I was expecting. Is it okay to use an OEM lug on an aftermarket wheel while I try to get a new Mishimoto lug? From what I've tried researching on here, it seems to be alright because the OEM lugs are conical like the Mishimoto ones I have right now. I just want to double-check.
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Old 11-26-2021, 11:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dububster View Post
I appreciate everyone's input. I did it today relatively fast actually, turned out to be easier than I was expecting. Is it okay to use an OEM lug on an aftermarket wheel while I try to get a new Mishimoto lug? From what I've tried researching on here, it seems to be alright because the OEM lugs are conical like the Mishimoto ones I have right now. I just want to double-check.

Yea itís fine.
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Old 11-26-2021, 12:41 PM   #20
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I use hand tools. Mallet and a punch to remove broken lugs. Washers, lug, and hand ratchet to install. I guess it helps to have lugnuts that go through, or you can just get more washers.

The hardest part is removing the brake caliper. There are two screw holes that you drive the right-sized screws into. I had two of them from a TV mount install kit, so no problem.

Open lugs have the advantage of debris falling out easier, and being easier to clean. Might prevent some failures. Also they look pretty cool.
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