KPower Industries K24 swap

[ML]

https://www.k20a.org/threads/whys-ev...xhausts.43322/

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

Could someone measure the diameter of the ac pulley for me?

10cm deep into the groove and 11cm flush with the top of the belt.

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

10cm deep into the groove and 11cm flush with the top of the belt.

Thank you! 100mm pulley for the supercharger it is!

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

Thank you! 100mm pulley for the supercharger it is!

I'm going to bump your thread with a few questions about your Rotrex plans...

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

https://www.k20a.org/threads/whys-ev...xhausts.43322/

I saw the dyno on page three comparing an open header to a 2.5” exhaust. The peak difference was 8wtq, which isn’t insignificant, but the 3” exhaust would probably be in between the 2.5” and going wide open, right? If someone is squeezing all they can from a NA build then maybe they should go 3”, but it might not make a huge difference, and it may not be worth cutting or buying new components, if that would be necessary.

Not to say that a larger exhaust wouldn’t yield more power at the same boost, but there are turbo Supras making 700whp+ with a 3” exhaust, so I feel like 2.5” would be good for a third to half that power.

What does a 3” exhaust sound like for a NA setup? I feel like the classic drone and fart can sound will be there for anything except WOT at high rpms. Maybe good for the track, but may not sound great around town. Like I said, I typically like a faster flowing sound to the exhaust note, but that may not be ideal or deliver maximum gains.

[visbits]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I saw the dyno on page three comparing an open header to a 2.5” exhaust. The peak difference was 8wtq, which isn’t insignificant, but the 3” exhaust would probably be in between the 2.5” and going wide open, right? If someone is squeezing all they can from a NA build then maybe they should go 3”, but it might not make a huge difference, and it may not be worth cutting or buying new components, if that would be necessary.

Not to say that a larger exhaust wouldn’t yield more power at the same boost, but there are turbo Supras making 700whp+ with a 3” exhaust, so I feel like 2.5” would be good for a third to half that power.

What does a 3” exhaust sound like for a NA setup? I feel like the classic drone and fart can sound will be there for anything except WOT at high rpms. Maybe good for the track, but may not sound great around town. Like I said, I typically like a faster flowing sound to the exhaust note, but that may not be ideal or deliver maximum gains.

I made 692WHP with my 62MM IS300 on a 3" muffled exhaust, I am running a 2.5" catback on the FRS and it makes just under 400HP with a 54MM turbo.

[captain awesome]

I think my initial plan to keep stock mid pipe back is worth running and getting dyno numbers with first. Stage two will be e85 before I dig into exhaust I think. Need injectors and a flex fuel sensor first though.

[Irace86.2.0]

I will have had a stock car to an E85 SC car at 8, 11 and 14 psi to a K24 turbo swap. I’m planning to give a review on changes in engine characteristics and handling once everything is done, but it would be good to hear from others on their impressions of the quality of the kit and on the changes to the car in handling and power.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I will have had a stock car to an E85 SC car at 8, 11 and 14 psi to a K24 turbo swap. I’m planning to give a review on changes in engine characteristics and handling once everything is done, but it would be good to hear from others on their impressions of the quality of the kit and on the changes to the car in handling and power.

Same. Stock, all NA mods possible with and without e85, Kraftwerks c30 low boost for a short bit on 91 before the unit seized, also NA with the Racer X intake manifold with and without e85. Also driven a couple turbo setups on others like SBD and JDL. I think this K swap will be the best version since I can stretch RPM to 8200 and not worry about the oiling system deciding that bearings no longer need lubrication. At some point I'm hopefully able to package a Rotrex unit AND still keep the A/c.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by visbits

I made 692WHP with my 62MM IS300 on a 3" muffled exhaust, I am running a 2.5" catback on the FRS and it makes just under 400HP with a 54MM turbo.

I’m guessing 3” downpipe, yes? Are you running any stock exhaust components like the frontpipe, or did you integrate a cat or resonator on your downpipe? Pictures would be cool. I have a Berk catted frontpipe. I’m hoping my downpipe will work with that, but I’m prepared to chop it up if necessary.

[visbits]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I’m guessing 3” downpipe, yes? Are you running any stock exhaust components like the frontpipe, or did you integrate a cat or resonator on your downpipe? Pictures would be cool. I have a Berk catted frontpipe. I’m hoping my downpipe will work with that, but I’m prepared to chop it up if necessary.

I have a 3" magnaflow emissions compliant catalyst and the 2.5" MXP catback.


I'll shoot a pic next week!

[ML]

Finally got this damn thing in the car last night!

[hedtrip]

One step closer

[captain awesome]

Got 4 out of 5 boxes in yesterday. Only thing missing was driveshaft, and of course a couple weeks before steel flywheels are shipped.


Everything looks really good.



A quick caution to those keeping your A/c compressor. My oil pan flange was too tight to the lower bracket. I had to file a little bit to get the pan flange to seat but other than that it looks/fits great. I wouldn't have noticed the flange issue had the compressor not already been installed. I can imagine it could cause sealing issues if you bolted the A/c bracket tight without knowing it was pushing the oil pan potentially breaking the seal. May not be an issue for others but seems like something worth mentioning.



There's also not much in the instructions explaining some of the passenger harness routing. I think I've got it figured out but was scratching my head a bit and probably split open some of the factory tape unnecessarily. Easy fix but would have saved me some time with a bit more clarity.


I plan to tinker some more this weekend with the Haltech stuff in the glovebox, but kind of at a standstill until the flywheel shows up. Seems silly to drop it all in the bay just to stare at it and then take it back out for final assembly.