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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 07-03-2017, 12:55 PM   #15
Leonardo
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Titans or Oversteers? These were what I narrowed my list of wheels to. I chose Oversteer. Price, size, look, all contributed to my decision. I have 18x8+45 and 18x9+42 with MPSS 225/40 and 245/35.

The weight does not bother me, and I had lighter weight 17's before the 18" Konigs.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:23 PM   #16
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If you want a real performance gain, a lighter battery is what you'll need. At least 10lbs lighter than what you have...
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:48 PM   #17
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my main concern would be the structural integrity of the wheels. Yeah the Rota is lighter but at what cost.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:41 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the info. This has given me more to look into.

And to answer some of the questions. This is mostly a DD with a little spirited driving on weekends. I normally drive my Celica Alltrac in the winter though. This car will never get pushed insanely hard, but I do want to take it to the track. I have a TE72 Corolla that will be driven the hardest though after the motor swap lol.

I was mostly asking cause this will be my first time buying nice wheels and had read about unsprung weight, etc and wanted to consider going that path if it made sense. For my driving, sounds less important, just dont add much lol.


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If you want a real performance gain, a lighter battery is what you'll need. At least 10lbs lighter than what you have...
When this battery dies I may do that. I tend to try and do my upgrades when the OE stuff is about to need replaced lol.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:53 PM   #19
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my main concern would be the structural integrity of the wheels. Yeah the Rota is lighter but at what cost.
no cost unless you are racing and have 400 + hp or more. The expensive wheels break just as much as the cheap wheels do.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:14 PM   #20
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I did a LOT of research (as my most recent set was my first set of good wheels on this car) on this as well.

You will take an MPG hit by moving away from stock wheels/tires. Stock wheels/tires are low-rolling-resistance, quite skinny, and fairly light. I went from 35mpg average to 33mpg moving from stock to 18'' 9.5'' wide 20lb wheels and 245x35 Hankook Ventus V12 (which i REALLY like).

Most tires will feel 'softer' (sidewalls will have more flex) than stock, especially depending upon how much PSI you run the tires at. Personally, I run the tires on the lower side (29-30psi cold) because of the choppy/shit roads in my area. I don't really have any 'fun' roads (although I hope to move into a place that does soon) so there's little reason for me to gear my tires towards performance. When the tires are hot they move up to 32-34psi, which is fine. The car is more comfortable than stock at this PSI in my opinion, and I don't notice any increase in road noise (maybe even less than stock since the noise that is generated is of a lower pitch).

The steering did get heavier when moving to wider wheels. It isn't that noticable, but it's worth noting.

My general thought: I don't think you'll see a big difference in the extra weight in each corner, assuming you stick with relatively light tires. I'm glad I stuck with 245 over 255 tires though, as I think the extra tread would have greatly increased noise (based upon being in other's cars).

EDIT: One more note to add: I can feel the extra 'oomph' that is needed to get moving from a stop with the increased weight. I have to ride the clutch just a tiny bit more. Overall, I don't consider it significant however.

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Old 07-03-2017, 10:42 PM   #21
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do yourself a favor and dont listen to anybody who says tire weight is a concern, let alone a bigger concern. id get the lightest wheel youre considering.
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Old 07-04-2017, 12:58 AM   #22
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Your not racing for money are you? Ever been to a race track In the last month?

Buy what ever your little heart desires, or what you think would look greater on your car.

If it's lightweight that's a bonus. At this point any wheel would do just fine for your needs.

You are way overthinking this.
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:10 AM   #23
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no cost unless you are racing and have 400 + hp or more. The expensive wheels break just as much as the cheap wheels do.
I believe this is generally true. But it depends on the process how the wheels were made and if there were any defects.

The only aftermarket wheel that ever cracked on me was a ROTA. $100 dollar fix and it was good to go.

This has been debated a lot over at NASIOC.
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:35 AM   #24
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I believe this is generally true. But it depends on the process how the wheels were made and if there were any defects.

The only aftermarket wheel that ever cracked on me was a ROTA. $100 dollar fix and it was good to go.

This has been debated a lot over at NASIOC.
And you can find plenty of pictures of every single wheel breaking in all sorts of ways if you google it. It happens. If it is a dd and you don't have crazy amounts of hp how the wheel was made isn't going to matter. No wheel is going to break on a daily commute unless you hit a massive curb or pothole.
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:43 AM   #25
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And you can find plenty of pictures of every single wheel breaking in all sorts of ways if you google it. It happens. If it is a dd and you don't have crazy amounts of hp how the wheel was made isn't going to matter. No wheel is going to break on a daily commute unless you hit a massive curb or pothole.
If you hit a pothole hard enough to break anything but the cheapest Ebay knockoff crap then the wheel being damaged is going to be the least of your worries anyway. There are a pile of things attached to a wheels that will do worse than it in a pothole or curb hit.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:51 AM   #26
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If you hit a pothole hard enough to break anything but the cheapest Ebay knockoff crap then the wheel being damaged is going to be the least of your worries anyway. There are a pile of things attached to a wheels that will do worse than it in a pothole or curb hit.
I still would't run cast wheels that are that light on a street car. Rota Grids for example are VERY light, as in 16lbs for a 17X7.5. Most Forged wheels that size weigh more. People keep saying that if you keep Rota's off the track, they'll be fine. Thing is, I think street driving is much more punishing on wheels than any track driving that isn't endurance racing.

Sure, track driving heat cycles the wheels, but this should not affect the cast wheels much, they are already pretty ductile and annealing them won't affect their strength much. Forged wheels have more strength to lose from heat cycling. Track driving doesn't involve potholes or curbs either, which break wheels easily in my experience. I cracked a chunk off the lip of an OZ Ultraleggera on a curb, I've bent two OZ Ultraleggera's driving onto a ~2" step-up in a 50mph construction zone, and I've bent one replica wheel going over a pot hole. Each time this was a light cast wheel that got beat up on the street. I've never damaged a heavier cast wheel, and I've had similar things happen to them. IMO, if you're going to take the risk of driving on imperfect roads, and your wheels are lighter than ~21lbs for 18" wheels, or ~19lbs for 17", they'd better be forged or at least have a flow formed (also called spunforged or spun) barrel.

I'm not saying Rota's are bad because they're Rota's, I'm saying I'm not comfortable putting a cast wheel THAT LIGHT on my street car, which will see imperfect road conditions. It just happens so that Rota makes their cast wheels really light.
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:21 AM   #27
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I still would't run cast wheels that are that light on a street car. Rota Grids for example are VERY light, as in 16lbs for a 17X7.5. Most Forged wheels that size weigh more. People keep saying that if you keep Rota's off the track, they'll be fine. Thing is, I think street driving is much more punishing on wheels than any track driving that isn't endurance racing.

Sure, track driving heat cycles the wheels, but this should not affect the cast wheels much, they are already pretty ductile and annealing them won't affect their strength much. Forged wheels have more strength to lose from heat cycling. Track driving doesn't involve potholes or curbs either, which break wheels easily in my experience. I cracked a chunk off the lip of an OZ Ultraleggera on a curb, I've bent two OZ Ultraleggera's driving onto a ~2" step-up in a 50mph construction zone, and I've bent one replica wheel going over a pot hole. Each time this was a light cast wheel that got beat up on the street. I've never damaged a heavier cast wheel, and I've had similar things happen to them. IMO, if you're going to take the risk of driving on imperfect roads, and your wheels are lighter than ~21lbs for 18" wheels, or ~19lbs for 17", they'd better be forged or at least have a flow formed (also called spunforged or spun) barrel.

I'm not saying Rota's are bad because they're Rota's, I'm saying I'm not comfortable putting a cast wheel THAT LIGHT on my street car, which will see imperfect road conditions. It just happens so that Rota makes their cast wheels really light.
A lot would depend on where you drive and what the road conditions are like. I wouldn't worry about a light wheel during most of my local driving but would certainly have concerns when I headed up Detroit way.
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Old 07-04-2017, 11:12 AM   #28
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Yoshoobaroo: but then again something like Kosei K4R, while probably as easy to damage as you say, are cheap enough to buy another wheel instead of damaged one.
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