Sprintex Questions!

[jones-adventures]

Hey All,
First off hello! First time participating in the forums. Got my 2017 brz last year.

I did some digging around forums but couldn't find anything really dedicated to improving Sprintex heat sink issues. If there is, please let me know.

1. Would heat reflective tape around the entire intake tubing help?
2. Has anyone tried a custom job of fabbing the intake to go straight over to the side?
3. Any other fixes / recommendations on improving the sprintex setup / improving heat sink issues?

I'd really love to be able to use this supercharger as I absolutely love the whine but I am concerned about longevity and reliability. Seems like most people I talk to just say to stick with edelbrock.

I do plan on getting a stage 2 built long block eventually so I kind of want to start with the 335 on a stock block but again, I don't want to blow it before I have the money

[JSIdriver51]

Originally Posted by jones-adventures

Hey All,
First off hello! First time participating in the forums. Got my 2017 brz last year.

I did some digging around forums but couldn't find anything really dedicated to improving Sprintex heat sink issues. If there is, please let me know.

1. Would heat reflective tape around the entire intake tubing help?
2. Has anyone tried a custom job of fabbing the intake to go straight over to the side?
3. Any other fixes / recommendations on improving the sprintex setup / improving heat sink issues?

I'd really love to be able to use this supercharger as I absolutely love the whine but I am concerned about longevity and reliability. Seems like most people I talk to just say to stick with edelbrock.

I do plan on getting a stage 2 built long block eventually so I kind of want to start with the 335 on a stock block but again, I don't want to blow it before I have the money

1. Heat reflective tape around the entire intake tubing would help
2. If you have IG, check out @trave916; he made a custom intake that just goes straight over the side/front
3. Definitely use e85 regardless of which kit you are running, it will help keep the temps down to allow more timing. Definitely get an oil cooler to keep the temps down so your engine doesn’t go. Get your header ceramic coated and/or heat wrapped to keep the temps in the engine bay down. Get a vented hood, or add a set of vents to your hood; this will allow the heat to dissipate so the car runs cooler (I’m running the Verus kit). Keep the stock airbox and add a drop-in filte (for max flow), or switch to the Perrin intake (helps get cleaner air and adds more whine).

If you still haven’t gotten a kit, just go with the 335 and get either the 85/90mm pulley to de-tune/lower the boost to a more acceptable level for the stock block. The 210s top end with the 69mm pulley (300/240ish) is lower than the 335s bottom end (300/270) with the bigger pulley. I absolutely love my kit (210) but will be going to the 335 next year hopefully (I’m also building another FA to complement the bigger kit); I have yet to have any reliability issues and it has more than exceeded my expectations; I’ve used this as a daily, for canyons, for autox, and just recently for streets of willow . I actually got to drive my friends edelbrock brz before purchasing my kit and the feeling just wasn’t the same (although it’s probably a bit faster in the top end)

[jones-adventures]

Originally Posted by JSIdriver51

1. Heat reflective tape around the entire intake tubing would help
2. If you have IG, check out @trave916; he made a custom intake that just goes straight over the side/front
3. Definitely use e85 regardless of which kit you are running, it will help keep the temps down to allow more timing. Definitely get an oil cooler to keep the temps down so your engine doesn’t go. Get your header ceramic coated and/or heat wrapped to keep the temps in the engine bay down. Get a vented hood, or add a set of vents to your hood; this will allow the heat to dissipate so the car runs cooler (I’m running the Verus kit). Keep the stock airbox and add a drop-in filter (for max flow), or switch to the Perrin intake (helps get cleaner air and adds more whine).

If you still haven’t gotten a kit, just go with the 335 and get either the 85/90mm pulley to de-tune/lower the boost to a more acceptable level for the stock block. The 210s top end with the 69mm pulley (300/240ish) is lower than the 335s bottom end (300/270) with the bigger pulley. I absolutely love my kit (210) but will be going to the 335 next year hopefully (I’m also building another FA to complement the bigger kit); I have yet to have any reliability issues and it has more than exceeded my expectations; I’ve used this as a daily, for canyons, for autox, and just recently for streets of willow . I actually got to drive my friends edelbrock brz before purchasing my kit and the feeling just wasn’t the same (although it’s probably a bit faster in the top end)

This is helpful, thanks! Yes hindsight id get a hood with better cooling aspects for FI, I have the Seibon CBF TS style hood right now that does have vents.

My header is wrapped but not coated. I unfortunately live in a small town in Idaho and services like that are hard to find haha. Same with e85, closest is an hour and half away!

What is the stock size pulley of the 335? One of my concerns of the 210 69mm pulley was losing rpms to not overspin the blower.

[86TOYO2k17]

Start with the 335 get a 90mm pulley and detune it. You’ll be at essentially a maxed out 210 setup, then if you build block swap to smaller pulley. If no E85 you will need a WMI.
You can get a failsafe and wire to the cpc 0-5v input to trigger failsafe if WMI has failure so it can be setup pretty safely.

I had a max effort 210 setup never experienced heat soak at least from a butt dyno feel, never tracked but pushed the car very hard on the street things like 6 60-120 mph pulls back to back or 10-12 40-90mph pulls back to back etc…
Intercooler
Gold heat wrap intake pipe
Perrin intake slightly modified to fit a massive dry filter
Hood scoop over blower
Hood vents
WMI
E45
Vented under tray
Oil cooler
Trans cooler
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fanshroud
Beatrush front crash bar to open up more flow around intake filter

I was in the process of swapping to a higher flow intercooler pump as well as a larger heat exchanger to prepare for swapping to 335 but car got totaled before that

[jones-adventures]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Start with the 335 get a 90mm pulley and detune it. You’ll be at essentially a maxed out 210 setup, then if you build block swap to smaller pulley. If no E85 you will need a WMI.
You can get a failsafe and wire to the cpc 0-5v input to trigger failsafe if WMI has failure so it can be setup pretty safely.

I had a max effort 210 setup never experienced heat soak at least from a butt dyno feel, never tracked but pushed the car very hard on the street things like 6 60-120 mph pulls back to back or 10-12 40-90mph pulls back to back etc…
Intercooler
Gold heat wrap intake pipe
Perrin intake slightly modified to fit a massive dry filter
Hood scoop over blower
Hood vents
WMI
E45
Vented under tray
Oil cooler
Trans cooler
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fanshroud
Beatrush front crash bar to open up more flow around intake filter

I was in the process of swapping to a higher flow intercooler pump as well as a larger heat exchanger to prepare for swapping to 335 but car got totaled before that

Thanks for the further information! The gold wrap does look pretty good. I am newish into the car scene so probably will avoid WMI for now. I only have access to 93 where I am.

Jackson racing upgraded radiator / oilcooler v2 arrived today and will be putting that on. I'll take a look at the transcooler.

Do you have a link for the higher flow intercooler pump and heat exchanger?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jones-adventures

Thanks for the further information! The gold wrap does look pretty good. I am newish into the car scene so probably will avoid WMI for now. I only have access to 93 where I am.

Jackson racing upgraded radiator / oilcooler v2 arrived today and will be putting that on. I'll take a look at the transcooler.

Do you have a link for the higher flow intercooler pump and heat exchanger?

On 93 the 335 will be questionable. You’ll need to consult your tuner really. Personally I wouldn’t go beyond 72.5mm pulley on 210 if I only had 93. With 92 I wouldn’t even do that and stick to 75mm.

WMI is pretty simple really. And in my opinion is a big piece to the puzzle of solving the biggest flaw/issue with the sprintex kits. Heat.

[jones-adventures]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

On 93 the 335 will be questionable. You’ll need to consult your tuner really. Personally I wouldn’t go beyond 72.5mm pulley on 210 if I only had 93. With 92 I wouldn’t even do that and stick to 75mm.

WMI is pretty simple really. And in my opinion is a big piece to the puzzle of solving the biggest flaw/issue with the sprintex kits. Heat.

I will see who I can consult! Ive sent mail to xero-limit and motoeast (if they still exist). Hopefully 90mm pulley can be done safely on 93. I believe I have enough information to get a handle on the heat soak.

Has anyone been able to tap/relocate the IAT sensor to get readings where the Edelbrock does for accurate fuel trim adjustments?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jones-adventures

I will see who I can consult! Ive sent mail to xero-limit and motoeast (if they still exist). Hopefully 90mm pulley can be done safely on 93. I believe I have enough information to get a handle on the heat soak.

Has anyone been able to tap/relocate the IAT sensor to get readings where the Edelbrock does for accurate fuel trim adjustments?

xero-limit was motoeast he would be the main go to for sprintex especially 335.

You can tap the MAP plate and install an IAT sensor there. Then connect the OEM IAT sensor wires from the MAF to the new IAT sensor and have the ECU get more accurate IAT temps to actually use those reading for tuning. Only a few people have done this.

[jones-adventures]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

xero-limit was motoeast he would be the main go to for sprintex especially 335.

You can tap the MAP plate and install an IAT sensor there. Then connect the OEM IAT sensor wires from the MAF to the new IAT sensor and have the ECU get more accurate IAT temps to actually use those reading for tuning. Only a few people have done this.

Again thanks for your all your help 86toyo. You have been a blessing. I'll get a conversation going with xero-limit. Do you have any usernames of those that tapped the MAP plate for me to DM?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jones-adventures

Again thanks for your all your help 86toyo. You have been a blessing. I'll get a conversation going with xero-limit. Do you have any usernames of those that tapped the MAP plate for me to DM?

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/member.php?u=18805

[Locost7]

I have used Mike from Xero Limit and he has been only been very helpful. I have a 335 with a 90mm pulley and the difference compared to stock engine power is night and day. Heat soak can be an issue at idle and low speeds but at hiway speed, ambient vs intake is generally no more than a 10 degree difference. I do have forged rods and pistons. Torque wise, it’s at 198 ftlbs at the wheels on 93 octane, conservative tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[whataboutbob]

If you get the Sprintex, watch the gear oil levels. I had a 210 for 3 years and it definitely went through gear oil.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

If you get the Sprintex, watch the gear oil levels. I had a 210 for 3 years and it definitely went through gear oil.

How'd you change yours? With a syringe and tube? I'm afraid if I do that method, I might miss some oil that's in the unit or add too much since the manual calls for EXACTLY 157 millilitres. What happens if I fill 160? Will the seals blow off? Lol

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by kev0

How'd you change yours? With a syringe and tube? I'm afraid if I do that method, I might miss some oil that's in the unit or add too much since the manual calls for EXACTLY 157 millilitres. What happens if I fill 160? Will the seals blow off? Lol

Most of the time I just added oil until it showed full on the dipstick. Mine was one of the original Innovate kits before they added the sightglass. There were occasions when I changed the oil, and I did use a tube and syringe. I measured the replacement oil in a beaker, and gradually filled it until the dipstick showed it was within the correct range.