Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

They're going to ask to send the ones you bought just send them back they will test them and confirm they are bad, and send new ones they really don't ask alot of questions.

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even little holes are made like pictured?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGDF7gk8jBha5qBV7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mWh7fjk8tBXC3s2J9

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Lol when I did the batteries were already 9 months old I think the batteries have a 1-2 year warranty.

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i think it's 1 year..
also isnt shipping expensive since it's rally heavy??

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

even little holes are made like pictured?



https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGDF7gk8jBha5qBV7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mWh7fjk8tBXC3s2J9







i think it's 1 year..

also isnt shipping expensive since it's rally heavy??

No they send you a lable, just give them a call. And speak to the lady

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[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

even little holes are made like pictured?



https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGDF7gk8jBha5qBV7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mWh7fjk8tBXC3s2J9







i think it's 1 year..

also isnt shipping expensive since it's rally heavy??

Oh dang I just saw these pics lol they might not warranty it but eh no harm I'm trying. In the meantime I would go to the store battery plus buy a pair of odyssey pc680 like the starter one just to test the phantom and see if it's working. If its working your golden them you can return the odysseys the next day. That's what I did cuz at the store the odysseys are super expensive. Once I new the system was good I went ahead and called batterymart.

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[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Oh dang I just saw these pics lol they might not warranty it but eh no harm I'm trying. In the meantime I would go to the store battery plus buy a pair of odyssey pc680 like the starter one just to test the phantom and see if it's working. If its working your golden them you can return the odysseys the next day. That's what I did cuz at the store the odysseys are super expensive. Once I new the system was good I went ahead and called batterymart.

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When you had this incident, your volt meter still read at 28.x? Because mine shown at 28.x but no response at all if engage thorttle switch. Still think my controller is ok? That 30amp fuse is fine

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[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

When you had this incident, your volt meter still read at 28.x? Because mine shown at 28.x but no response at all if engage thorttle switch. Still think my controller is ok? That 30amp fuse is fine

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Yea it still read 28.x and when I would hit throttle I was making like 1.5 psi.

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[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Yea it still read 28.x and when I would hit throttle I was making like 1.5 psi.

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i will have to try and test then
but when i engage it, volt meter did not move at all.
hope everything is ok

Thanks man~! i will update the thread once i test it

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

i will have to try and test then

but when i engage it, volt meter did not move at all.

hope everything is ok



Thanks man~! i will update the thread once i test it

Good luck

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[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Good luck

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I opened controller unit and fuse is fine.
i think one of cable in controller is not activating the throttle switch.
which means, one of the cable may be damaged...
i posted it on sale anyway..i guess time to go with real F/I

i like to thank you for look into this for me

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

I opened controller unit and fuse is fine.

i think one of cable in controller is not activating the throttle switch.

which means, one of the cable may be damaged...

i posted it on sale anyway..i guess time to go with real F/I



i like to thank you for look into this for me

Dang hopefully if someone buys it they can get it to work.

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[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Dang hopefully if someone buys it they can get it to work.

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yeah...i really loved this kit but oh well..i dont want it go wasted and someone can fix and enjoy it.

[CY86]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Curious, when you bypass intercooler how do you have the pipes routed?

If you did want to add in an intercooler i would use one of these. Almost no psi drop and still very effective at reducing temps. This would most likely be a total net HP gain, and prevent heat soak in tougher conditions.
http://www.frozenboost.com/?searchstring=Long+flow.

You would need a water pump, reservoir, and radiator. For pump Use a tap a fuse to an on switch source for hot wire (several options in cabin fuse box) and ground to chassis or negative battery. Lots of places to mount the reservoir, and mount a small radiator where your intercooler is now, or get a chase bay windshield washer reservoir to relocate windshield washer reservoir and put the radiator behind driver fog light. That’s what i did for my trans cooler works great. Would be a cool little project to finalize this dual ESC project of yours.

i agree that the ESC will have little heat soak compared to regular turbos. if the purpose is to drop the boosted air's temp, then yes water ICing is the way to go...

[CY86]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

I honestly think though that the MAF sensor is just getting hot. Because sine my new setup the NA filter is no longer protected by the hot engine bay temps, and the sensor sits closer to the engine. I think what's happening is the sensor itself is getting hot. Then when I hit boost the temps don't go down because the sensor is so hot it's not cooling down fast enough to read the new temps. As my car is set up currently. Boost temps should be cooler since the filter for the turbos sits inside the bumper kinda like the perrin filter so it should be sucking in colder ambient air compared to the filter sitting inside the engine. I need to find a way to keep the intake pipes cooler. Any ideas?

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check out starlight

[BlOody_BoOger]

So quick update.....I did a few things to try and bring temps down. Now while I really didn't make my charge temps lower I did notice operating temps went down roughly 5 degrees. So before during normal driving after driving around town temps would sit right around 130 (stoplight) at idle then while cruising go down to about 115 and under boost go back up to 120. This time around in similar 95-100 degree weather I noticed idle temps were around 125 would drop to around 110 and under boost go up to 115.
In 75 degree weather. Idle temps sat around 105 drop to 95 under cruising and back up to 109 under boost. Now in comparison with other conventional boost applications. 120 charge temps seems to be normal and for me on hot summer days seems to be my max given without an intercooler. So it's safe to safe I'm good to run without one. So a few of the things I did was wrap the pipes with gold heat wrap. Added a filter heat shield to the in bay filter. Added a heatsink on the maf sensor. And installed these fin pipes in place of where an intercooler would sit. those pipes act almost like a large heatsink.

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[pallen]

Do the fins go inside the pipes as well, or just on the outside?