Oil Pressure

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by fableluke

The first time i noticed bad OP was when i was doing a pull and past 5K i saw it bounce around 45psi but no higher than that, i backed off after i saw that. I do get 100psi Op on cold starts but 1-2 minutes it would be dropping to 60-70psi when the oil is around maybe 90-100F only. Meh i dont really want to bring my car to the shop since its about 40miles away. Driving with 1-5psi op i feel is kinda risky.

A little frustrating the shop is asking me to drive the car back but the 1st time i dropped off the bare longblock for them to inspect and find any oiling issues. Maybe im just a noob but wouldnt a machine/auto shop find obvious signs of oiling issues if they went through the entire longblock? They asked me to take it back running to check all of that. But hey maybe im salty i forked over 4k and my low op issues is still there.

No i believe its an IAG block. I bought it off a buddy for a good deal but he said might have issues. Its why i wanted a shop to inspect it.


Edit: found that old post about that cam sprocket intake plate thing and oil pressure. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show....php?p=1802327

I wouldn't drive on that at all. My IAG block made 0psi when i tried to crank it over. It is fixed now but with 10w40 like you said it is nearly 100psi cold start and takes quite a bit of time to warm up and drop into the 20psis at idle. Maybe i am just paranoid because my OE block lost all its oil before the light came on. Get a uhaul trailer and take it back that way.

[fableluke]

Originally Posted by Breadman

I wouldn't drive on that at all. My IAG block made 0psi when i tried to crank it over. It is fixed now but with 10w40 like you said it is nearly 100psi cold start and takes quite a bit of time to warm up and drop into the 20psis at idle. Maybe i am just paranoid because my OE block lost all its oil before the light came on. Get a uhaul trailer and take it back that way.

Could i ask what was the issue and what was done to fix it? Not sure if I am going to take back to this shop. They denied me warranty for not doing all the work they recommened, and the work i refused wasn’t anything to do with oil. They wanted to do another valve job. Got another shops opinion, they said sure they could use another valve job but they said could use them how they are just fine. I might just take this engine apart myself. Im no stranger to engine work. Im coming from b series motors, some k series, and chevy small blocks.

Yea I’ve got my own trailer and truck for that purpose. Trying to find another shop just getting a little too old to keep working on cars and also less patience than i had in my youth. Lol

[KillerBMotorsport]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

For a short time, @KillerBMotorsports had a problem with their oil pick up tubes being the wrong length. They have since corrected the problem, but you may have one of the older tubes. You might give them a call or email.

To the best of our knowledge, every one of those was accounted for.

This is an odd conundrum. I'm not super familiar with the AVCS cam seals on the FA engines, but with the EJs they are hit miss reliable when you disassemble them, so we always just replace them. Even if it was AVCS seal related, I would think it would have to be a huge or multiple leak points for pressure that low.

How many miles does it have with pressure that low?

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by fableluke

Could i ask what was the issue and what was done to fix it? Not sure if I am going to take back to this shop. They denied me warranty for not doing all the work they recommened, and the work i refused wasn’t anything to do with oil. They wanted to do another valve job. Got another shops opinion, they said sure they could use another valve job but they said could use them how they are just fine. I might just take this engine apart myself. Im no stranger to engine work. Im coming from b series motors, some k series, and chevy small blocks.

Yea I’ve got my own trailer and truck for that purpose. Trying to find another shop just getting a little too old to keep working on cars and also less patience than i had in my youth. Lol

I believe there was an oil port blocked in the upper oil pan or something. They fixed that but then said the oil pump was bad or something. I had to pay for that out of pocket. Overall i was very unsatisfied with FAST of west chester. This took like 6.5 months or something. And this was after IAG took twice as long as the estimate on the build.


Honestly that is in the past and everything is in and works and makes whirly noises. At least I learned a few other things, like SoA isn't worth shit and don't expect anything from them.

[fableluke]

Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

To the best of our knowledge, every one of those was accounted for.

This is an odd conundrum. I'm not super familiar with the AVCS cam seals on the FA engines, but with the EJs they are hit miss reliable when you disassemble them, so we always just replace them. Even if it was AVCS seal related, I would think it would have to be a huge or multiple leak points for pressure that low.

How many miles does it have with pressure that low?

Not really sure. I do remember pulling the oil pan before giving the motor to the shop and finding what looked like a small piece of shop towel in the pickup screen on the killerb tube

Im just guessing about the cam sprockets, might be as easy as some failed seal, im hoping its something easy.

[fableluke]

Originally Posted by Breadman

I believe there was an oil port blocked in the upper oil pan or something. They fixed that but then said the oil pump was bad or something. I had to pay for that out of pocket. Overall i was very unsatisfied with FAST of west chester. This took like 6.5 months or something. And this was after IAG took twice as long as the estimate on the build.


Honestly that is in the past and everything is in and works and makes whirly noises. At least I learned a few other things, like SoA isn't worth shit and don't expect anything from them.

Ahhhh, might have the same issue as yours( man i hope). I pulled the oil pan and looked at the pickup tube found a piece of old shop towel, this was before i let the shop inspect the longblock

you or anyone know if i need to remove the engine to remove the upper oil pan? edit: looking through the manual, looks like ill need to pull it to remove the upper oil pan.

[Irace86.2.0]

[Irace86.2.0]

[blsfrs]

I got my FRS put back together with a new timing cover. But I still have the same problem: High pressure at the sandwich and low at the galley.

I took the sandwich plate off again, (eliminating the JRDR) cooler, screwed on the filter. and this time I drove the car around for 45 minutes (instead of just monitoring pressure with the car sitting in the driveway).

Now my galley pressures look more like I'd expect. So, something is up with the JRDR system. I've ordered a tee and will double check the pressure in the timing cover and then figure out a way to flow test the oil cooler components.

[blsfrs]

Interesting discussion. One of the commentors described development of Hemi engines with oversized oil pick ups.

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=350063

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I got my FRS put back together with a new timing cover. But I still have the same problem: High pressure at the sandwich and low at the galley.

I took the sandwich plate off again, (eliminating the JRDR) cooler, screwed on the filter. and this time I drove the car around for 45 minutes (instead of just monitoring pressure with the car sitting in the driveway).

Now my galley pressures look more like I'd expect. So, something is up with the JRDR system. I've ordered a tee and will double check the pressure in the timing cover and then figure out a way to flow test the oil cooler components.

What's the pressure differential you're seeing across the FRDR? I believe spec they say is 5-10 PSI of drop

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

What's the pressure differential you're seeing across the FRDR? I believe spec they say is 5-10 PSI of drop

He is getting around 50psi difference.

@blsfrs have you tried swapping your transducers for the gauges with each other to verify it isn't your second gauge reading wrong?

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

He is getting around 50psi difference.

@blsfrs have you tried swapping your transducers for the gauges with each other to verify it isn't your second gauge reading wrong?

Yes, I've swapped transducers and compared both to a manual gauge.

With the oil cooler removed, I have no way to read pressure at the sandwich.

My galley pressures run up to 60-65 psi when hot at 6000rpm.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

I got my FRS put back together with a new timing cover. But I still have the same problem: High pressure at the sandwich and low at the galley.

I took the sandwich plate off again, (eliminating the JRDR) cooler, screwed on the filter. and this time I drove the car around for 45 minutes (instead of just monitoring pressure with the car sitting in the driveway).

Now my galley pressures look more like I'd expect. So, something is up with the JRDR system. I've ordered a tee and will double check the pressure in the timing cover and then figure out a way to flow test the oil cooler components.

Found it! Well done. Just send it back with a reference to this thread.