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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


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Old 12-03-2019, 05:06 AM   #15
matt88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddy101 View Post
Hey Matt, The Holmart engine is pretty bare, no harness, alternator, belts, idlers, starter motor or AC compressor. Some of these you can purchase from Holmart with the engine, the rest I purchased from Holden at a reasonable price (compared to Subaru Prices!).
I have just sourced a whole heap of brand new LS engine wiring harnesses, so will get these modified with the FA20 plug shortly. With the E38, just purchase a 2nd hand one (or can buy new from holmart), you will need to remove the VATS anti-theft (the unlocking) and a few other options to run correctly. I can also do this, however if you plan to get a tune done, probably best to get your tuner to do it. To get into the ECU you have to purchase credits for every unique ECU, so if I (or an unlocker) unlocks the ecu will cost credits, then your tuner to edit the tune will have to also purchase credits. Most cost effective to get the tuner to unlock it, then only one shop has to purchase credits for your ecu.
I probably won't use Holmart now. No matter how much I ask Mick nicely he seems stubbornly stuck on the fact that he doesn't want to tell me when his engines were manufactured. Even telling him one of the conditions of achieving the certification for the modification approval here in Qld is ensuring the engine is newer than the car he is now telling me if I pay him $110 he will get some of his employees to pull the engines down from the pallet racking and check the engine numbers, dates of manufacture etc. Even getting him to this stage was like pulling teeth. When asking him dates of manufacture on his engines I was just advised when the LS3 was used in the different series of commodore. Then the old "all in all my years I've never heard such questions....". Then another time when asking about the MAFS type, injectors type etc so I could ensure the correct harness is ordered I got met with the old "If they don't know what an LS3 engine is, take your business elsewhere". Honestly, how a business can deal with someone asking simple questions about their $15,000 products they are trying to sell in such a condescending manner and then be asked to pay for their poor record keeping and stock management practices is just ludicrous in today's world.

So it's a big fat no from me on using Holmart. I'll probably use Eagle Auto Parts in Brisbane now. The delivered price of their engines are pretty close to Holmart.

For the additional items like alternator, compressor, starter motor etc, I'll probably just use ebay or maybe even a US based site if I can get the items cheap enough. Maybe Eagle auto again or as you say, Holden direct.

Can I assume your harness is compatible with the different MAFS location, type, MAPS type, Injector type? If you have a look at the ordering page at Sikky or wiringspecialities for their harnesses they ask a series of questions to ensure the harness they supply is correctly configured for items like this.
https://www.sikky.com/product/standa...iring-harness/
It would be good to know if your harness already answers all these questions.

On the E38 ECU, is there a series or model of ECU that I should be aiming for? New units from Summit seem cheap enough....
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...rolet/model/ss
Also it seems some of them have three port connectors, but others only have two (the port in the middle is missing on some models). I think that I would be needing to get one that at least has enough of a flash with VATS removal and a startup tune to at least be able to start the car, ensure it is running in stock form, run the car for testing etc then once I believe everything is running correctly in terms of all other modifications take the car to the tuner for the final performance tune. Sure, I know this is going to mean a few wasted dollars on the ECU thing, but I don't think I have much choice otherwise. Powertorque in Brisbane seem to be the go-to tuners for Commodores around here so that is probably where I will end up going.

For a nice story about good customer service, I had a good phone call with Craig from Performance Auto Inspections today. He seems very knowledgeable and was happy to give advice and guidance on things I should be looking out for when doing my conversion, in order to make sure he can then provide the certification/mod plate easily enough when I am at the end of the line. If anyone in the Gold Coast, Brisbane, Sunshine Coast area needs mod-plate/certification/roadworthy service I would recommend him for sure.
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddy101 View Post
Hey Matt, The Holmart engine is pretty bare, no harness, alternator, belts, idlers, starter motor or AC compressor. Some of these you can purchase from Holmart with the engine, the rest I purchased from Holden at a reasonable price (compared to Subaru Prices!).
I have just sourced a whole heap of brand new LS engine wiring harnesses, so will get these modified with the FA20 plug shortly. With the E38, just purchase a 2nd hand one (or can buy new from holmart), you will need to remove the VATS anti-theft (the unlocking) and a few other options to run correctly. I can also do this, however if you plan to get a tune done, probably best to get your tuner to do it. To get into the ECU you have to purchase credits for every unique ECU, so if I (or an unlocker) unlocks the ecu will cost credits, then your tuner to edit the tune will have to also purchase credits. Most cost effective to get the tuner to unlock it, then only one shop has to purchase credits for your ecu.
What would you think if I said I was considering going for an LT1 instead? Do you think you would be able to provide a harness and able to get your interface to work? I am guessing it would be an E67 ECU, not E38.

Challenging, yes, but I like a good challenge.
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Old 01-05-2020, 09:02 PM   #17
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matt88 I am located in Beerwah. Keen to have a chat PM sent.
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Old 01-15-2020, 06:14 PM   #18
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Just looking for a donor car. Would 2014 Toyota 86 ZN6 GTS with auto, be suitable for LS swap, or would a manual be a better option ?
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Old 01-21-2020, 12:12 AM   #19
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What is the all-in expected finalized cost to get this working with Air Conditioning/Heater still functional?
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Old 04-13-2020, 04:50 AM   #20
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Hi @toddy101!

First of all, thank you for this realy great Translator. Got my swap working two days ago. The car is not drive able yet since airbox, driveshaft and a section of the exhaust are still missing. This beeing said, I am already very impressed how OEM like the feeling is with your Translator. Also in matter of OBD scaning and ECU tuning. Only point where I was strugeling a little was doing the correct wiring since I started the project before your latest wiring guide was available.

If you agree I could share my personal wiring notes here. Maybe it helps some other useres with doing this job. Also the perspective of an actual user and the findings I made could help to make this even more easy. This beeing said, with the new wiring guide it should be a realy easy Installation.

Again, I have to Thank you. I would give a 95% rating for this product at the moment.

If you could provide a download link for the Bluetooth Test App I would give an instand 100% rating. Would be great if you could come up with a link.

@all they are planing a LS swap: I just can recommend using this Translator. Its simply great. As promissid nearly everything is working.

Only exception is the EVAP system, but I dont know any Translator or adapter which keeps this alive. As well, in my case the car doesnt even have this system since I'm located in Europe and the EVAP leak test system is not mandatory here. Since this system can be completely controlled by the GM ECU, you have basically two options:

-deactivate (as I did, but keep in mind this tweak could be illegal depending on your location)

-or use the GM EVAP solenoid valve (attention: This is NOT the purge valve, purge valve is operational out of the box) and the GM tank pressure sensor: install the sensor in the top of the 86 fuel pump, remove the 86 EVAP vacuum pump behind the diff carrier and place the GM EVAP solenoid valve therefore. Wire this to the GM ECU (overall this should be a harness with 3 wires plus 2 wires for Power supply) and it should work.

I researched this pretty far until I noticed that there is actually no EVAP system on my car since I didnt know that this system is not installed on EU 86'. In the end I left this mod out since it was not needed, but I can say that even this seems very possible.

Again, I have reasearched close to any available CAN Translator option out there, watched a bunch of Videos and read through 100eds of posts in several build threads in different boards. I was not able to find any more complete and more Plug&Play style solution.

I would also state that, if I knew that this thing is working as it does before purchasing, would be willing to pay even a much higher price for this great unit! Just keep in mind that other solutions which have at least nearly the same OEM style functionality would mean to use a very expensive free programmable aftermarket ECU as well as doing the complete wiring with that. With the Translator you can use the complete functionality of the GM E38 ECU, which provides nearly same functionality as a free programmable when using Hptuners. Sure, specialised stuff as ALS and launch control are not available (at least not as far as I know, but I'm for sure a HPT beginner), but even a forced Induktion setup should be possible. Overall the Translator is not only the most complete and most comfortable solution I know, it is also very very inexpensive, even if you sum it up with the costs for the HPT Tool which is necessary if want to do the tune on your own. (The necessary adjustments to get it just running can be done in less than 30min even by a HPT-noob like me, so a local tuner should be able to do this for a very low rate)

Last edited by TRS; 04-13-2020 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 04-13-2020, 11:39 AM   #21
spitsnaugle
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Please support e40 ecu's soon!
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