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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


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Old 04-05-2018, 03:23 PM   #15
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Also if possible, put price of whatever "X" part needed to perform the build
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:36 AM   #16
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Also if possible, put price of whatever "X" part needed to perform the build
With all due respect, the best option is for people to look up online what things cost and source their own parts. Some of the parts I bought were done so via a direct wholesale account. So the prices I put may be against UMAP and may also confuse viewers into thinking they are getting ripped off online.

At the end of the build, I will post every single part on the car, down to the tiniest little thing. Then others can use that as a reference and do their own hunting.
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Old 04-09-2018, 09:17 AM   #17
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Few more pics added to the first page. Not much going on at the moment, waiting for the cherry picker to be free so I can pull this engine. I've been cleaning engine parts left and right. Everything is filthy on this "40-60km" engine.
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:59 AM   #18
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Engine is out... It's no huge feat considering only 2 bolts were holding it in after the trans came out.

I bought those spot weld drill bits on amazon everybody was using and they are total trash. I paid $20 thinking they wouldn't be bad but each one was wobbling and did not cut straight. One of them broke 2 teeth and I only did like 3 spot welds before I realized it was way more work than it was worth. So I just too a bigger "normal" drill bit and started going to town. I've done about half the spot welds this way and it's way easier than the stupid spot weld removal bit. Seems like a gimmick to me, or maybe $20 wasn't enough to justify a quality product. Who knows... I'll try to take more pics today.
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:23 AM   #19
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Engine is out... It's no huge feat considering only 2 bolts were holding it in after the trans came out.

I bought those spot weld drill bits on amazon everybody was using and they are total trash. I paid $20 thinking they wouldn't be bad but each one was wobbling and did not cut straight. One of them broke 2 teeth and I only did like 3 spot welds before I realized it was way more work than it was worth. So I just too a bigger "normal" drill bit and started going to town. I've done about half the spot welds this way and it's way easier than the stupid spot weld removal bit. Seems like a gimmick to me, or maybe $20 wasn't enough to justify a quality product. Who knows... I'll try to take more pics today.
Yeah the cheap spot weld drill bits from Harbor Freight (which sounds like the one you got off amazon) suck to use. I bought 5 and ended up using every one. They would either get dull, break a tooth, or the centering pin would lose its point and walk off.

Hopefully the spot welds are the last of the issues.
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Old 04-13-2018, 12:40 PM   #20
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Yeah the cheap spot weld drill bits from Harbor Freight (which sounds like the one you got off amazon) suck to use. I bought 5 and ended up using every one. They would either get dull, break a tooth, or the centering pin would lose its point and walk off.

Hopefully the spot welds are the last of the issues.
If only that were possible lol.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:22 AM   #21
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I've removed the trans mount brackets out of the trans tunnel. I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel to put an "X" into each spot weld, then I used an air hammer to chisel them off. This technique made it very very easy. I mentioned before I tried a $20 set of spot weld drill bits and they were trash.

Now i'm having a little trouble expanding the trans tunnel. I am using a bottle jack but everytime I expand it and loosen the bottle jack, it goes back to shape. Any pointers for this?
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:37 PM   #22
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Possibly use 2 bottle jacks spaced apart a little and then let it sit for a day or so. Might work.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:26 PM   #23
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I've removed the trans mount brackets out of the trans tunnel. I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel to put an "X" into each spot weld, then I used an air hammer to chisel them off. This technique made it very very easy. I mentioned before I tried a $20 set of spot weld drill bits and they were trash.

Now i'm having a little trouble expanding the trans tunnel. I am using a bottle jack but everytime I expand it and loosen the bottle jack, it goes back to shape. Any pointers for this?
I used and air chisel with a hammer bit and a 2.5 pound sledgehammer
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:57 PM   #24
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I've removed the trans mount brackets out of the trans tunnel. I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel to put an "X" into each spot weld, then I used an air hammer to chisel them off. This technique made it very very easy. I mentioned before I tried a $20 set of spot weld drill bits and they were trash.

Now i'm having a little trouble expanding the trans tunnel. I am using a bottle jack but everytime I expand it and loosen the bottle jack, it goes back to shape. Any pointers for this?
Use heat maybe
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:21 AM   #25
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spread it with a bottle jack then beat it with a hammer to relieve the the metal. Its tough work, but it will clear without cutting out the tunnel lol
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Old 04-27-2018, 08:42 AM   #26
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Update: Broke a bottle jack... It was an old craftsman so maybe was on its way out but damn. I have not tried to do a bottle jack and beat the metal after, I will give that a shot. i don't want to use heat since I only took the carpet out and there's other things that may be affected inside the cabin by heat. Off to the store to buy a new bottle jack! Also, I will try to find a nice air hammer "hammer/flat" bit.
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:52 AM   #27
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I didn’t think to use a bottle jack but I can see how that would have helped. I just used an air chisel/hammer on the upper parts and sides of the tunnel and floated it over the area I wanted to push in. Since the tunnel isn’t really solid it vibrates and takes time....it massages the area in more slowly but comes out pretty clean.




The bottom and harder areas like the firewall I beat with a sledge hammer and air hammer


Your doing this on a lift right?
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:55 AM   #28
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i don't want to use heat since I only took the carpet out and there's other things that may be affected inside the cabin by heat. Off to the store to buy a new bottle jack! Also, I will try to find a nice air hammer "hammer/flat" bit.
I ended up with tons of broken up sound deadening material under the carpet too. Probably from all the vibration, a real pain tonclean out with the whole interior innokace haha
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