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Old 11-01-2017, 03:57 PM   #15
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Certainly among the last engines I would have chose for a swap but it looks like it is coming along really, really well. Nice to see somebody actually do something different instead of just talk about doing it!
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:11 PM   #16
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thanks. did you need any adaptor for the injectors to work or are they plug and play? yeah i gave up on the factory ecu awhile ago.



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Hopefully by December but it should definitely be running before New year's.

On the Tundra I'm running the new ID1300X injectors with E85. You can getaway with the ID1050X if you're gonna run race fuel instead.

Unfortunately if you want to run any bigger injectors than the ones that come with the TRD supercharger you'll need to do a standalone ECU. The factory ECU can't scale that high as far as I know.

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Old 11-04-2017, 02:31 AM   #17
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thanks. did you need any adaptor for the injectors to work or are they plug and play? yeah i gave up on the factory ecu awhile ago.
No adapter needed, however we couldn't install the factory plugs to clear the fuel rails and had to use some potting material and extensions. Not sure if the stock fuel rails will interfere as mine are custom.

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Old 11-06-2017, 10:31 AM   #18
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Re-drilled the southbend flywheel to be able to bolt it on the 3UR crankshaft. Will be using both the 3UR flexplate and the SB flywheel so we can run the same SB stage 3 clutch along with the 3UR starter. Not sure yet how well this will go but on the balancer it had no problems all the way to 8000RPM. 3URs rev to about 6k so hopefully no vibration issue.

Engine and trans are in their final position. We moved everything back 5 inches. Engine and transmission mounts will be done by the end of the week hopefully.

Crankcase will be cut and modified to clear the crossmember. I'll attach a picture of a 3UR that was once in an 86. I'm sure everyone heard about it a few years ago. It was made by speed hunters but the project was cancelled before the car ran. The crankcase in the pictures looks like it will perfectly clear the crossmember with how the engine is sitting now in my car. If I run into any oil starvation issues due to the crankcase I'll probably end up using an oil accumulator.

There is no way the hood will close without modification, the engine is simply too tall. Anyone knows an aftermarket Hood with more clearance? If not I'll just have to modify the stock one. It's already been cut to install the Velox vents.

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Old 11-07-2017, 06:28 PM   #19
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Awesome to see this coming along. Saw your Tundra last time I was at Dynosty(maybe right after the dyno?). Really impressive!
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:20 AM   #20
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A little progress with the mounts. We used 1/2" steel plates.

The Transmission mount is good as is just needs a bit of trimming on the edges.

The engine mount will be trimmed, boxed in with additional plates on the sides and welded to the crossmember for extra support. It's not the prettiest but we're still using the factory 5.7 mounts.

The shifter bracket was also cut and shortened by 5".


Once everything is set, they will be sand blasted and powder coated.

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Old 11-09-2017, 09:40 AM   #21
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Make a shaker style cutout?
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:13 PM   #22
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Make a shaker style cutout?
That was the plan. Have you seen the new ZR1 hood? Maybe something like that.

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Old 11-13-2017, 09:24 AM   #23
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The swap is about 75% complete. Just waiting on the driveshaft and crankcase to be done. Once I get those back everything will get powder coated and will be installed one final time.

Meanwhile, we got the ECU hooked up to a CAN BUS analyzer. We got 13 IDs which is twice as much as usual on other cars. Once we figure out which ID is which a translator will be wired between the 3UR ECU and the rest of the 86 ECUs. We'll probably have everything working maybe even cruise control too. The throttle pedal even uses the same pigtail and outputs the same signal as a Tundra. Things are looking really promising

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Old 11-14-2017, 08:04 AM   #24
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I love people figuring out CAN stuff. Let me know if you need anything to get your project further.

Looks like a lot of those ID's line up with some older Toyota CAN messages that are decently documented on the internets.

https://github.com/fabiobaltieri/toy...er/toyothack.c

The above link seems to contain some similar ID's.

https://github.com/commaai/opendbc/b...Q_2009_can.dbc

The above link might be a bit too new and doesn't contain similar ID's but might give you some more insight into Toyota's packet structure within the ID.

EDIT: Also, only 13 ID's? Very, very common on new vehicles.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:15 AM   #25
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I love people figuring out CAN stuff. Let me know if you need anything to get your project further.

Looks like a lot of those ID's line up with some older Toyota CAN messages that are decently documented on the internets.

https://github.com/fabiobaltieri/toy...er/toyothack.c

The above link seems to contain some similar ID's.

https://github.com/commaai/opendbc/b...Q_2009_can.dbc

The above link might be a bit too new and doesn't contain similar ID's but might give you some more insight into Toyota's packet structure within the ID.

EDIT: Also, only 13 ID's? Very, very common on new vehicles.
Thanks for the links! I'm actually kinda cheating by using my other truck to figure out which is which. I use the analyzer to send a code and see if one of the gauges flickers. Once that is found we convert the HEX value(s) into binary and it gives the value of whatever parameter it's providing. So far we found the Engine Speed and Coolant temp. I'll look over those links you sent and maybe find some matching IDs.

I used this link talking about Camry CAN BUS IDs to find the engine speed as they were the same.

http://tucrrc.utulsa.edu/ToyotaCAN.html

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Old 11-20-2017, 11:17 AM   #26
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I went out of town last week so not a lot of progress while I was gone.

Driveshaft is done, we ended up shorting the factory driveshaft by deleting the elbow joint and welding them together. 0 vibration while balancing at about 3000RPM (about 60 MPH in an 86/BRZ).

A new shifter linkage was made. It goes into every gear without any issues just like stock.

Crankcase was cut to fit the cross member. We will try to use the factory oil pan but might end up cutting it a bit for clearance.

On the electronic side of the swap, my friend Gerald over in California has all the CAN BUS IDs mapped out. Everything should work as factory with the exception of traction control which I don't use anyway.

We have Coolant temp, throttle pedal signal, cruise control (they use the same signal as the 86/BRZ), and a lot of other stuff Gerald figured out to make it work.

The factory 86 oil pressure switch will be tapped into the oil filter adapter plate to turn off the oil pressure light.

RPM is also working however we still need to figure out the multiplier on the 3UR side to get the exact RPM. Either way power steering will work now that we have a tach signal.

AC will be wired directly as it doesn't pass through CAN BUS on the 3UR side.

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Old 11-20-2017, 11:47 AM   #27
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Traction Control may still work. I have found a definite difference between traction on and traction off during hard acceleration (I have traction issues up to 4th gear a lot of the time) and during Auto-X. I believe the system utilizes the rear brakes as a means to control rear wheel slip.

Also, the factory oil pressure sensor is a dummy sensor. It grounds out and turns the oil pressure light on when it sees 0 psi. Light stays off if not hooked up. I ditched it early on for a proper oil pressure gauge. So unless you absolutely want it, it's not needed. By the time that light goes off, your engine is just about guaranteed to be dead.
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Old 11-20-2017, 11:54 AM   #28
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Traction Control may still work. I have found a definite difference between traction on and traction off during hard acceleration (I have traction issues up to 4th gear a lot of the time) and during Auto-X. I believe the system utilizes the rear brakes as a means to control rear wheel slip.

Also, the factory oil pressure sensor is a dummy sensor. It grounds out and turns the oil pressure light on when it sees 0 psi. Light stays off if not hooked up. I ditched it early on for a proper oil pressure gauge. So unless you absolutely want it, it's not needed. By the time that light goes off, your engine is just about guaranteed to be dead.
That's what my friend said as well about traction control. We only need to figure out where to tap the ABS signal from the 86 to the 3UR ECU to make it fully functional. It would take some time to figure out + "translation" but it's definitely do-able. I just don't really need it lol. The brakes may still come on to manage traction, Toyota calls this "Auto LSD" on their trucks. but with it not connected to the ECU to cut power it will just power through the brakes like in a burnout situation.

Good to know about the oil pressure switch. I'll probably just ground it now. I was going to run an oil pressure gauge regardless. One less thing to worry about, thanks

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