Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by jamestown

The more I look at it I would probably buy rs3's due to tire cost and that I don't want to move to something like an NT01 due to their wet traction limits.

Are you racing? TT? If so, buy Hoosier wets for those conditions and be done with it.

Or are you trying to become a faster, more skilled driver? Then run the NT-01s in the wet. You will absolutely be forced to smooth your inputs and look ahead more.

I ran R888s on my Miata in the rain/wet, then through drying condition, into completely dry in the afternoon. And drove my buddies WRL GT3 Miata on worn R1Rs in the wet (track was so slick in the morning on the R1Rs I nearly lost it on the yellow flagged out lap!).

No ABS/TC/VSC, etc. Trying to drive quickly in the wet is a great tool for slowing down your inputs, finding grip "off-line" etc. You're going to be significantly slower in the wet anyway. Might as well be honing your skills.

[jamestown]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Or are you trying to become a faster, more skilled driver?

I agree with you about the value of practicing in the wet. Realistically thought I am not racing and will be using the same tires for street and track. The frs won't be my daily, but I think I am still leaning towards not NT01s. If I ever decided to have a dedicated track set that would probably be my first choice.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by jamestown

The more I look at it I would probably buy rs3's due to tire cost and that I don't want to move to something like an NT01 due to their wet traction limits. So in practical terms the decision would be between stock rims and say a 225/45ZR17 or rpf1's and a 245/40ZR17. Lowest cost option vs dare I say the better cosmetic option??

A lot of people have brought up brake bleeding/ fluid. I am a religious bleeder. I'm coming from a car that weighs 3800lbs and would probably be dead otherwise. All praise fluid.

The pad useage I have seen on both my previous cars has been around 5-6 track days. Ofc as you know it all depends on track for instance I think I crushed pads in only a few days on the g35 when I went to Watkins Glen a few years back (all of the braking zones are downhill). My main tracks are going to be TMP kayuga, Mosport GP track, and Mosport DDT just due to proximity. TMP and the DDT are smallish technical tracks that will be hard on brakes. Mosport GP is actually pretty easy on brakes as far as tracks go, most braking zones are slightly uphill and it is high speed (lots of airflow between braking zones).

I don't know how I can argue against that regardless of my hangups. Seems like I would at least break even if I do 25 days over 5 years with the added benifit of more braking confidence on track.

I can't thank people for posts yet but strat thanks for that useful post!

Sweet spot for handling rim/tire size without added power and suspension upgrades is around stock or 17x8 with 225/45-17. Very sticky tires like upgraded/stiffer suspension, so RS3 looks good for what you're looking for.

I find the break even argument for BBK irrelevant - it's a nice added benefit but if I'm pushing the car I want to be able to slow down when I need to and how I need to, without thinking about the "if" part. You'll get most of your investment back when you sell it some day. Rebuild by Essex is about $200 every 1-3 years - every year for me at 20+ track days/year. Rotors are $380 list for j-hook blanks and mounting hardware, if you keep moving the hats from the original kit. I have a spare set of rotors and a spare set of AP Sprint calipers. Brake pads are $217 list for a pair of front Carbotech XP12 pads. Rear pads/rotors wear about 3x slower than front. Exposure to road salt is not good - metal pistons and no rubber piston seals on Essex Sprint and they would disintegrate with track use anyway - but it's easy to swap to stock calipers for cold months. It's a win-win with some up front investment for a piece of mind. I bleed brake fluid after every track weekend and I never worry about brakes.


Enjoy

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Oh by the way, oil changes take at least 5 quarts (a full fill according to the manual is 5.7 qts iirc), so using quality oil puts you near $10/quart, plus filter, odds are you're looking at a $50-$70 oil change. Don't know if you're a 'change before and after every event' kind of guy or a 'just follow the manual' kind of guy, but worth mentioning considering we're talking about the cost of consumables.

Actually, oil changes are cheaper than that. I go to WalMart and stock up on the 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 Extended Protection @ $25+tax. Changes take 6qt (even with an oil cooler because you never actually drain that). With filter (Amazon subscription! ) it costs me $44.71 per change. I change after every track day. Probably a little excessive at 15 changes in less than 2 years but it's good piece of mind. Same with brake fluid. I don't have to, but I flush .5L Castrol SRF after every event while doing the oil change. Cheap insurance in the grand scheme of things.

[jamestown]

Originally Posted by Whooosah

I know track pads are supposed to be noisy if not bedded in just wondering if this sounds normal.

Track pads are noisy even when bedded. Generally it is more of a squeal under actual braking. Are you convinced you installed them correctly? If so go properly bed them and see how they are afterword.

[Whooosah]

Originally Posted by jamestown

Track pads are noisy even when bedded. Generally it is more of a squeal under actual braking. Are you convinced you installed them correctly? If so go properly bed them and see how they are afterword.

Thanks ya I drove them around today and they quieted down while coasting. It used to be a metallic scraping noise when coasting. Perhaps just wearing in. Now they sound normal and properly squeaky like track pads should sound when braking. Haven't bedded them yet.

[ZionsWrath]

That scraping is is the cold pads rubbing off the transfer layer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jamestown

Track pads are noisy even when bedded. Generally it is more of a squeal under actual braking. Are you convinced you installed them correctly? If so go properly bed them and see how they are afterword.

It depends on the pad and the caliper.

Some pads will never quiet down, regardless of caliper, and some calipers don't have any harmonic damping, making the pad much more likely to make noise.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jamestown

CSG Mike!

I've read a lot of your posts and you have probably answered this somewhere already but here goes:

I currently have a camaro 1le that is very satisfying to drive on track. Unfortunately I've been having some reliability issues with the engine that are making me not want to own the car anymore. What is the point of having a capable car if it doesn't work??

I'm considering getting an frs to do say 5 track days a year over the next 5 years. My experience level and speed is somewhere between medium and high. Mods will be kept to a minimum and no power mods at all. I value reliability going forward and would plan to get 17x9 rpf1 +35, some 255 re-71r's, carbotech xp12/xp10 or equivalent, an oil cooler/oil temp and pressure gauges and whatever decent alignment I can get on the factory suspension.

Is this a good plan? Anything I'm missing? Is this car going to hold up for my needs? It's either that or maybe it is time for me to get out of tracking entirely.

You seem to know what you want. You'll probably want camber plates and rear lower control arms, so that you can get the alignment you want. Otherwise, an oil cooler, wheels, tires, and brake pads (possibly a BBK), is all you need to enjoy the car. If you're chasing lap times, you'll want narrower tires. If you just want tons of seat time and cornering grip with no regards to straightline speeds, than the 255 is fine.

For some minor balance changes, you can get an adjustable rear sway too.

If you're getting a used, early model, you'll want a tune, even if its just an updated base map, to prevent the DI seal failure.

The above is a basic, but very solid setup.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Lynxis

If you're concerned about upgrading to BBK or coilovers for insurance reasons then maybe you want to wait until the 2017 BRZ Limited with the Performance Pack comes out. It will get you 90% of the way there with big brakes and upgraded suspension right from the OEM. Just install an oil cooler and upgrade your pads and fluid and you'll be set and have done nothing to the car to make an insurance adjuster look twice.

Sort of.

OEM grade Brembos are still Brembos, but they're a lower grade than any equivalent sized aftermarket Brembo.

You also pay the "OEM Brembo" pad tax.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Whooosah

I just threw on my w5 pads all around and went for a test drive. Noticed some noise sounding like the pad is slightly grinding the rotor in rear and maybe front. Just wondering if this is normal for brand new pads. I know track pads are supposed to be noisy if not bedded in just wondering if this sounds normal. Its kind of like a 'shhhh' sound even when not on brakes coasting or lightly on brakes.

The sound will change as the pads bed in.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It depends on the pad and the caliper.

Some pads will never quiet down, regardless of caliper, and some calipers don't have any harmonic damping, making the pad much more likely to make noise.

With PFC 01, 08, and 90 in the AP Racing front calipers my car is louder than a dump truck on the last few dozen feet of a slow stop with moderate or less pedal pressure as soon as there is any temp in the pads/rotors.


That issue isn't present with the same pads on the Baer/Alcon 4-pots on my other car.


The major difference is spring clip position. On AP the pads sit in the clip 'cradle' fore/aft. On Alcon, the pads sit free but there is a giant H-spring under the cross bolt that presses down on them.


Curious if changing to the other spring style would dampen the noise.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Uplink

With PFC 01, 08, and 90 in the AP Racing front calipers my car is louder than a dump truck on the last few dozen feet of a slow stop with moderate or less pedal pressure as soon as there is any temp in the pads/rotors.


That issue isn't present with the same pads on the Baer/Alcon 4-pots on my other car.


The major difference is spring clip position. On AP the pads sit in the clip 'cradle' fore/aft. On Alcon, the pads sit free but there is a giant H-spring under the cross bolt that presses down on them.


Curious if changing to the other spring style would dampen the noise.

It's worth trying if its easy for you to do

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally Posted by Uplink

The major difference is spring clip position. On AP the pads sit in the clip 'cradle' fore/aft. On Alcon, the pads sit free but there is a giant H-spring under the cross bolt that presses down on them.


Curious if changing to the other spring style would dampen the noise.

I have the AP kit (is loud), how do I change to the other spring style?

Not really sure what you mean.