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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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01-14-2015, 04:05 PM | #57 |
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Spent the weekend at Sebring and had a blast. Car performed flawlessly, no issues. I did, however, go through more than half a set of Carbotech XP10 front pads. That surprised the hell out of me, and I did 8 sessions at 30min each. Thought they would last longer than that.
Now I have a bit of time to get the car ready before the next track even in a couple months at Road America. Thinking of moving to the Carbotech Xp12 pads in the front. Also, I will be installing a Jackson Racing Oil Cooler before that track day. I saw 282F oil temps at Sebring on a 65F day. I didn't even bother checking the next day when it was 80F, I was too chicken. I do have a problem though, actually a couple. Under power, my car makes a high pitched noise from what seems like the front of the car. I can't figure out what it is. No apparent issues, just a noise. Only happens when I press the gas pedal It drove me insane driving 20hrs back from Sebring listening to it. I'm almost convinced it's actually from the rear, which is where I'm having another problem...and it's just feeding back through the car oddly. Which leads me to what I know is an issue, the rear differential whines. Anyone else having this problem? I'm hoping just changing the fluid will fix this, as I understand it needs to be changed at 30k miles anyway. I'm nearly there, and with track use....maybe it should have been done sooner. What fluid do you guys recommend for a car that sees track time? Last edited by Apex_BRZ; 01-14-2015 at 04:18 PM. |
01-14-2015, 09:23 PM | #58 | |
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#2: JROC Kit on a NA car with vented hood was running at 228F in high ambient temperatures. Ask @juliog. #3: Diff oil changes are normally recommended at every 2 track days. Most people don't do it so use your best judgment. Whining is not good. It also means you probably overheated your fluid and your diff wasn't being lubricated properly. |
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01-14-2015, 09:35 PM | #59 |
We've been enjoying the Perrin/Setrab Oil Cooler we installed on our Project cars with max temps in high heat and high humidity was 235 at Homestead and our car is pushing 212whp out.
As for brakes, step up to a race pad like the DTC60 or DTC70 before going to a BBK. If you car in NA there is likely no reason you should need to get a BBK even running race tires. On the Diffy Oil, we change out ours about every 4 or 5 track weekends and we are running the Motul Gear 300 75w90 in both the trans and rear diffy. I would look to get that changed out sooner rather than later and see if the whine goes away. We can drop ship you the Motul, just let us know. -Mike Paisan Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" |
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01-14-2015, 11:06 PM | #60 |
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Thanks guys. I'm going to order the gear oil right away, and will start changing that every couple track days for extra insurance. What about trans fluid?
I'm a bit confused on the brake pads. Do you guys consider the Carbotech XP12 in the same range of pad as the Mu999 and W6? Those two are incredibly expensive. I will probably try the XP12 next, and in looking at them just now...I noticed that one site recommended that I use dedicated rotors with them due to the material transfer. So a question popped into my head. Should I be swapping dedicated track rotors with the race pads to make sure that I'm using rotors that have a clean material transfer to them? |
01-15-2015, 12:59 AM | #61 |
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01-15-2015, 01:44 AM | #62 |
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Subbed because good info!
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01-15-2015, 06:31 AM | #63 |
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01-15-2015, 06:44 AM | #64 | |
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I know they are very expensive, but we tracked a set of CL-6 pads on our Enduro kit and the set lasted us an entire season (over 40 track hrs) and we still have life left. High cost of entry but untimely cheaper then other pads we tried in the past. We use the same set of rotor for track and race without issue. The CL-6's aren't touchy. If feels like driving an old european car where the harder to press the faster you stop. No fade and consistent either hot or cold. The 6's are sintered though and make a hell of a noise. We found if you don't do the "pedal dance" pad life is reduced by more then half. The TC really eats em up just my 2...
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01-15-2015, 11:10 AM | #65 |
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I have the Perrin oil cooler and it has worked well (max 235F oil temps) on my NA BRZ. However, given they cost about the same, I'd go with the JR cooler since it has more cooling capacity if I were getting one.
How do the DTC 60/70 pads compare to the XP12s? I get about 4 days out of the XP12s. I change the diff fluid every 4 or 5 track days; using Motul 300. Same for the trans; however, the Motul is a bit thick for the trans in the winter so I use the Motul in the trans only during the warm months; otherwise the trans is a bit balky in the winter.
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01-15-2015, 11:39 AM | #66 | |
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You can re-use the rotors, but you'll be re-bedding pads the first session, so keep that in mind when you're braking for the first few laps. The whole "dedicated rotors" thing is more of a manufacturer's way of the usual "CYA". |
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01-15-2015, 11:41 AM | #67 | |
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The real solution is a BBK; your brake pad life should easily double with the Essex Sprint kit. As you get faster, your brake pad life will drop, but you can again increase it by adding brake ducts, or sizing larger to an Endurance kit. |
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01-15-2015, 03:29 PM | #68 | |
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I had a great instructor who was very aggressive. That line through Turn 17 seemed to work really well. Even with my poor downshifts (can't heel/toe yet), I was catching a lot of much faster cars on that turn. I was putting down much faster times than one of my buddies until he started using it too. |
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