understeer on 17 brz

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Reposition your camera to get your hands in the shot, seeing where the car is can be nice for critiquing lines, but if you want to get insight into what the car is doing you are showing about 1/3 of the picture.

Things like rough binary inputs, shallow or late turn in, too aggressive or not aggressive enough, or maybe you're babying it and doing everything in your power to manage the weight transfer and the car is simply not responding, it's incredibly tough to judge without at a minimum seeing what the driver is doing.

Ill be at buttonwillow 23/24 with better cameras so I'll stick one on my helmet.
I was babying the fuck out of it compared to my last few days at buttonwillow. Slow turn in because anything aggressive at all and it would just immediately slide the front.
The more I think about it the more I want to blame the new asphalt... slurry coat, whatever. It was worse traction than even a normal street road. It was kinda like driving in light rain.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[jmark]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Start with a performance alignment.

- Andrew

Alignment specs to shoot for with OEM setup plus camber bolts.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by jmark

Alignment specs to shoot for with OEM setup plus camber bolts.

which camber bolts do you have? the SPC bolts i've got (yet to install) say they do +/- 1.75*... but I've been reading about what the right settings for camber might be for this car in stock form. it seems like it really depends on the amount of grip you'll have?? more grip, more camber? i've seen some people with the stock tires setting it to -1.3*... i think it might be one of those things where you have to play with it to get the right setting for you??... i'll have them in before next track day, so I guess i'll set them to the max, -1.75* just to make alignment easier for now and try changing it later?? I've ordered some alignment toys, which should be pretty fun...

[jmark]

Originally Posted by alex.s

which camber bolts do you have? the SPC bolts i've got (yet to install) say they do +/- 1.75*... but I've been reading about what the right settings for camber might be for this car in stock form. it seems like it really depends on the amount of grip you'll have?? more grip, more camber? i've seen some people with the stock tires setting it to -1.3*... i think it might be one of those things where you have to play with it to get the right setting for you??... i'll have them in before next track day, so I guess i'll set them to the max, -1.75* just to make alignment easier for now and try changing it later?? I've ordered some alignment toys, which should be pretty fun...

Whiteline

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by alex.s

still had an amazing time despite the 110f weather.

What track? I ran Streets of Willow Sat. They had just applied a spray on surface sealer and ruined the track.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

What track? I ran Streets of Willow Sat. They had just applied a spray on surface sealer and ruined the track.

yeah, i was there saturday. i saw you pitted right next to the main building, i should have said hi. nice car you've got there.

[ApexEight]

Are there any other practical ways to get more camber without going to camber plates? Assuming you already have camber bolts in the lower strut holes and crash bolts in the upper holes. Camber plates are pretty expensive.

[swarb]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Are there any other practical ways to get more camber without going to camber plates? Assuming you already have camber bolts in the lower strut holes and crash bolts in the upper holes. Camber plates are pretty expensive.

Slotting the strut hole to be oval instead of round.

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by alex.s

yeah, i was there saturday. i saw you pitted right next to the main building, i should have said hi. nice car you've got there.

I wish you would have. Would have enjoyed meeting you. Should have come over and pitted with us.

[churchx]

More camber w/o camber plates?

Soon i plan to try powerflex front LCA bushings (PFF69-801G or PFF69-801GBLK). Will see if they'll help to get additional camber to current -2.3 w. camberbolts. Unfortunately DIY slotting here is not MOT-legal (thus i guess elsewhere may rise problems of not passing some racing class rules), and camberplates add too much NVH on local bad roads.

Ideal way for more camber would be whiteline's Com-C eccentric rubber top mounts, but on our cars those had often bearing binding problems, they tried few revisions/changes to fix that, didn't succeed, and delisted twins from compatible with them.

P.S. IIRC some of aftermarket coilovers are preslotted, eg. RCE tarmacs.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

I wish you would have. Would have enjoyed meeting you. Should have come over and pitted with us.

next time!

how bad was the track for you? it seemed worse than an average city street

you know now that i think about it, i'm pretty sure i sat next to you in the driver meeting, right up front.

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by alex.s

next time!

how bad was the track for you? it seemed worse than an average city street

you know now that i think about it, i'm pretty sure i sat next to you in the driver meeting, right up front.

The track was SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was 4 seconds off my normal time.

[jmark]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Start with a performance alignment.

- Andrew

Alignment specs to shoot for with OEM setup plus camber bolts? Tires 225/45/R17 Pirelli P Zero AS Plus with 7.5" wide PP rims.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by jmark

Alignment specs to shoot for with OEM setup plus camber bolts? Tires 225/45/R17 Pirelli P Zero AS Plus with 7.5" wide PP rims.

tl;dr

Max negative camber up front, should be somewhere between -1.0 and -1.8 or so, get as much as you can. If they need a number to shoot for just say -2.0, you probably can't get that much with just one set of camber bolts, but I think I've heard 2 sets of camber bolts can get up to -2.2

Zero toe front, somewhere between zero toe rear and some toe in on the rear depending on how lively you want it, maybe start with 0.2 degrees total toe in (0.1 degree in on each wheel) and see how it feels.

If it wanders too much in DD or on the freeway add some toe-in, this also applies if it's a bit too darty and nervous when driving it hard. You can toe in on front and rear. If you feel the car is dull to turn in, the back end isn't moving enough then add some toe-out. Don't go toe out on the rear unless you want something very exciting to drive to work in the morning, zero toe on the rear should be lively enough but if you feel like experimenting I think it's worth trying in the right environment (test n tune, autox, etc.).