Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Keenercarguy]

I have a fairly simple tire question. A racer I highly respect suggested a budget competition wheel-tire combination for me for now. Direzza Star Specs on a spare set of factory wheels: but he said to go as wide as I can with the tires. Now I've seen some C-street guys running as wide as 245 on their stock wheels, but how wide could I really go before I start to lose performance and stability, rather than gain it? @CSG Mike

[ScionOfHorus]

I wouldn't go above 225 to be honest.

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[14stu]

The wider tires feel worse and aren't faster. RS3's are super cheap now and hold up better on the track than the start specs.

The start specs are better autocross tires though. On a 7" wheel you don't want or need more than a 225 tire.

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[Uplink]

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

I have a fairly simple tire question. A racer I highly respect suggested a budget competition wheel-tire combination for me for now. Direzza Star Specs on a spare set of factory wheels: but he said to go as wide as I can with the tires. Now I've seen some C-street guys running as wide as 245 on their stock wheels, but how wide could I really go before I start to lose performance and stability, rather than gain it? @CSG Mike

You're going to want an 8" rim for 245's. You can pick up a squared set of RPF1's with mounted and balanced 245/40-17 Direzza Star Spec Z2's for under $1,900 delivered. The upside is that in total you are also adding only 12.8oz of rotating mass total (if you don't put TPMS in them) and you'll get awesome grip.
225's would work on the stock 7's, maybe even 235 but you're starting to push it.

[dp1]

If it's for performance and not looks, 225/45 on 8" rim, 235/40 or 245/40 on 9" rim...wouldn't use more than 225/45 on stock rim.

[Keenercarguy]

225 was what I had hoped to hear so I'm glad I wasnt far off. 225's it is. Thanks! Oh and they are primarily for autocross so I guess star specs are still the way to go(?) they will be put through an HPDE or two but mostly be for autocross. What about Hoosier slicks though, any thoughts on those?

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by dp1

If it's for performance and not looks, 225/45 on 8" rim, 235/40 or 245/40 on 9" rim...wouldn't use more than 225/45 on stock rim.

Slightly OT, that Thompson 4 in your pic?

[14stu]

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

225 was what I had hoped to hear so I'm glad I wasnt far off. 225's it is. Thanks! Oh and they are primarily for autocross so I guess star specs are still the way to go(?) they will be put through an HPDE or two but mostly be for autocross. What about Hoosier slicks though, any thoughts on those?

Wheel width and tire selection are usually dictated by class rules: CS means you have to run the stock size wheel and will want to stick to a 225 tire (min 200 tread wear rating), STX allows up to a 9" wheel where people usually stop at a 245 tire (also limited to a 200 tread wear rating). If you don't care about classing, you can spend as much as you want and do whatever, since you are just in it for fun.

I've noticed that you're in the brake thread asking questions (questions are good), the car is a system and all the parts need to work together (including the nut behind the wheel). The minimum you need is the stock setup, you can run both autox and trackdays stock (I've done it)! You'll be slower than you otherwise could be and you'll have to alter how you drive to limit brake temps on the track (don't drag the brakes, brake hard in a straight line and come off them, maybe even pull the dust shields off).

You need to decide what your purpose is with the car and what class you are going to run in. Seat time, then tires for time; brake pads and fluid for reliability on track are what you need. Stickier tires necessitate better brakes, as do faster drivers or different techniques.

Trackdays are for fun and learning, so you don't really need to worry about prepping to a rule set there (you want to have a setup that is reliable, consistent, and safe). Autocross has rules, especially SCCA, so that's probably what will dictate your setup.

For a start I'd suggest running CS (C Street) where you are limited in what mods you can do (the more you change the car the harder it is to learn and really the car is pretty bang on from the factory). Get a second set of wheels and tires (17x7 and 225/40/17).

The Bridgestone RE71R's are the best current autocross tire, but they are soft and wear quickly so while learning they really aren't necessary. I'd recommend the Hankook RS3's since they last much longer and are super cheap now (because they are no longer competitive). The only other mods you need are: OEM Crash bolts (like $10), and if you're in a FRS I'd recommend a slightly bigger front swaybar (BRZ can do without).

Now, if you plan on going to the track, you'll want some brake pads and fluid. However, you want something that will still work on both the street and at the autocross. At autox, you brakes don't get any heat, so you need a pad with good cold bite. The track has the opposite problem where you'll melt pads that aren't up to the task. These needs are diametrically opposed, so you will be compromising.

I'd recommend something that is a "performance street" type pad (there are some advertised "autocross pads" too), like a Hawk HP+ or the new replacement (like Hawk 5.0 or something). I've had good experience with the Stoptech Street pads, they aren't really a track pad though, so depending on your local track and driving technique you could overheat them. Many other manufacturers have similar pads and anything that works from 100-1200 degrees F should work for you, I just haven't shopped around enough to know what the names for all the other pads are so I won't try to point at specifics. I know people who run Winmax, Hawk, Project Mu, Ferodo and a couple of other brands, but all the autocross guys tend to pick the mid-grade pads and steer clear of the track pads (can't get em hot enough to work and they chew through rotors when cold).

I've been doing autocross for 7 years and tracking the last couple, and I've learned a couple of things. If I can help others shorten the learning curve and avoid some of the pitfalls, I'm more than happy to help out.

[Keenercarguy]

Thanks for the lengthy input! I've got a BRZ and I actually have slightly stiffer front away bar and I've already got front OE crash bolts and have the car aligned with the maximum front end camber I could get (-1.8* ish on both sides) with my weight in the drivers seat. At the time I was prepping with C-street in mind! But I have some offers for great HPDE, some of which discounted thanks to connections and club positions so now I'm essentially looking to upgrade my brakes for use at AutoX and HPDE while ALSO looking for a spare set of wheels a tires so I don't chew through my street set up with all the abuse. Especially since one of the tracks around me EATS tires. My main goal is to earn driving experience without breaking the bank, or my brakes, or my car. The driver mod is the most important, always, and everything else is just there for support. You're the third person to recommend Hawk HP+ in the last 24 hours and I'm definitely going to consider them. Thanks again @14stu
, I'm a noobie in both age and experience, but lesser in the latter, I've put more mileage on my BRZ than most owners out there and owned it since it first came out... So i know my car: and i know that I haven't used it to it's full potential, yet. So thanks for shortening my learning curve.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by Uplink

Slightly OT, that Thompson 4 in your pic?

Yes, my one and only day at Thompson in Aug 2014, doubt I'll be back. I HPDE at Palmer, NJMP Th/Li and WGI, and AX at LRP.

[Fricke]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Can you give me a list of EVERY 180-200TW tire available to you?

So this is the tiers i have managed to track down whit E label for euro tiers, and is god too go in the Swedish club class in Time attack.

Yokohama advan AD08R TW180.
Kumho ecsta xs (KU36) TW180.
Nankang NS2R TW180.
Bridgestone Potenza RE002 Adrenalin TW220.
Michelin Pilot Super Sport TW300.
Michelin pilot sport ps2 TW220.
Pirelli P zero TW220.
Toyo R1R TW200.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The XS is gonna be the stickiest of that group, but the AD08R will probably be easier to drive for you...

Now I have Ben told that even the Hankook RS3 can be found here in Europe whit the E-marking.
So does that change the game?

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by Fricke

So this is the tiers i have managed to track down whit E label for euro tiers, and is god too go in the Swedish club class in Time attack.

Yokohama advan AD08R TW180.
Kumho ecsta xs (KU36) TW180.
Nankang NS2R TW180.
Bridgestone Potenza RE002 Adrenalin TW220.
Michelin Pilot Super Sport TW300.
Michelin pilot sport ps2 TW220.
Pirelli P zero TW220.
Toyo R1R TW200.




Now I have Ben told that even the Hankook RS3 can be found here in Europe whit the E-marking.
So does that change the game?

I run the Kumho XS on my Vette and have been extremely happy with them for both autocross and track days. Cheap price with great grip. They do wear fairly quickly though if you're going to be daily driving the car.

[Fricke]

Originally Posted by Uplink

I run the Kumho XS on my Vette and have been extremely happy with them for both autocross and track days. Cheap price with great grip. They do wear fairly quickly though if you're going to be daily driving the car.

Yes the Kunho XS is a really good tier, did run them last years time attack, and also did a sett of Nankang NS2R, and does warrant as good as the xs.
As far as the car, it's only track driven mostly, and when I take it out for a spin I have other wheels on it (xxr 527 18x9,5 et15) but those are shuts for show and no go.
This year (2016) I have gutted out the interior and bought me a finess weld in role cage, so very little street driving from now on I guess

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

I have a fairly simple tire question. A racer I highly respect suggested a budget competition wheel-tire combination for me for now. Direzza Star Specs on a spare set of factory wheels: but he said to go as wide as I can with the tires. Now I've seen some C-street guys running as wide as 245 on their stock wheels, but how wide could I really go before I start to lose performance and stability, rather than gain it?

Check out this test on the ZI Star Specs, the 86 was slower on track with the 235 vs the 215, had more lateral grip but the added rubber slowed it in the straights.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ransformation/

Everyone is saying 225's but oe size 215's will have a bit more responsiveness and you'll save a couple bucks if you end up with ZIISS, the RS3's are actually cheaper as 225's go figure. I was in the same boat last year, chose the Dunlops based on the shop's recommendation and expected to be replacing the tires after ~9x autox events and 3x track days but they're still sitting on the car with 14k miles on them and a decent amount of tread left, guess I'm not as fast a driver as I thought I was.



But RS3's are currently cheaper though to the tune of $40 a set on tirerack and the Dunlops get less love (less grassroots motorsport support I suppose, same reason Hawk's have great branding and ALWAYS get brought up in performance brake pad discussions despite getting mixed reviews), I'll probably be trying the Hankooks next as well.



Edit: I know you asked about brakes here and there, don't skimp on pads for the track, after you gain some confidence and start putting heat into them you'll destroy the OE pads and have to back off the rest of the day to preserve the brakes and make it home safe, no fun and limits your development as you spend time worrying about braking rather than good line and carrying speed.