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Old 01-31-2016, 05:42 PM   #2815
GeorgeJFrick
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More important question. It was a fun day cutting the old end links off. 2 hours on end links, 2 hours on everything else. My future car purchases will involve spending a weekend coating important nuts/bolts.

Since the springs are supposed to settle; wouldn't that mean that you would get two settling periods? Once when you first drive the car and then the normal settling over a period of 7-10 days?

The question being, won't these both break pre-load? Wouldn't you need to pre-load; drive, pre-load, settle for 10 days, and then set pre-load once more?

I learned so much today; and setting camber with the camber plates is easy and awesome. Everything is as in lots of other threads - clunky, and I'll have to find my error.

Of course, it rained all day. Testing/adjusting in the cold wet. But; I want to learn and win; so weather be damned. Hopefully someone can talk a bit about my preload question.
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:59 PM   #2816
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Just bought Ap racing endurance kit ! Can you help me choose something for the rear to match and dont mess up with the Bias

Rce t2
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Stock power
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:49 PM   #2817
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If "for the rear" you meant brakes .. just use stock. Both sprint & endurance kits were especially designed to be used with stock rears with keeping brake bias unchanged. As during braking it's fronts that do most of the job (you can go through several pads in front till when rear pads are worn), such combo works fine and lets you have high quality components where it matters and not overpay where it doesn't.
It's worth to use same compound front & rear pads though.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:53 PM   #2818
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Thx for your help ! Ill save money for tire 😊
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #2819
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
I would like to do an article on suspension frequencies.

Soon.

- Andy
The thread is so long, so the above quote is from long ago. I would be very curious to be educated on that subject. Did you post this somewhere else? Is it buried in the 160+ pages? Or if you didn't get around to it, I am sure I'm not the only one who would take a great interest.

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:02 AM   #2820
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The thread is so long, so the above quote is from long ago. I would be very curious to be educated on that subject. Did you post this somewhere else? Is it buried in the 160+ pages? Or if you didn't get around to it, I am sure I'm not the only one who would take a great interest.

Thanks!
I've got half of a post on the topic in draft form....been waiting on a new home computer. It's in the works.

- Andrew
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:27 PM   #2821
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@Racecomp Engineering with the tarmac 0 do they need a revalve to swap from the 280 springs to 350 springs?
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:31 PM   #2822
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Hi there, I am looking for suggestions on how to make a optimized set up for my frs.

The car currently has eibach 1.4 inch drop springs, front camber bolts, whiteline subframe bushings, perrin steering rack lockout, and sbc rear lower control arms. Also currently have 245/35/18 nitto 555's mounted on enkei raijin wheels.
My first issue i would assume? can be cured by camber plates, The front tires rub with my strut perches if i go past -1 degree of negative camber. The second issue is obviously stock shocks and struts are not designed to be used with that large of a drop.
The main focus of the car will be spirited street driving, with a couple track events a year. With a budget of 2.5k-3k What would you recommend doing to get the most out of the car? Harshness or nvh is not a massive issue since it is a second vehicle.
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:00 PM   #2823
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@Racecomp Engineering with the tarmac 0 do they need a revalve to swap from the 280 springs to 350 springs?
Nope. Plenty of damping so you'll be good to go.

- Andrew
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:02 PM   #2824
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Originally Posted by jegglz View Post
Hi there, I am looking for suggestions on how to make a optimized set up for my frs.

The car currently has eibach 1.4 inch drop springs, front camber bolts, whiteline subframe bushings, perrin steering rack lockout, and sbc rear lower control arms. Also currently have 245/35/18 nitto 555's mounted on enkei raijin wheels.
My first issue i would assume? can be cured by camber plates, The front tires rub with my strut perches if i go past -1 degree of negative camber. The second issue is obviously stock shocks and struts are not designed to be used with that large of a drop.
The main focus of the car will be spirited street driving, with a couple track events a year. With a budget of 2.5k-3k What would you recommend doing to get the most out of the car? Harshness or nvh is not a massive issue since it is a second vehicle.
2.5 to 3k can get you a solid set of coilovers with camber plates. IMO that's all you need since you've already got a good start, and then some seat time and brakes.

- Andrew
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:45 PM   #2825
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
2.5 to 3k can get you a solid set of coilovers with camber plates. IMO that's all you need since you've already got a good start, and then some seat time and brakes.

- Andrew
Thanks The brakes for sure are kinda mediocre
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:09 PM   #2826
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Stock brakes? Imho they are rather good compared to average OEM brakes. Yes, they lack big thermal capacity for long track sessions w/o fade, and wearables are a bit on expensive side, but usually average stockers at least on cars of this price level are way crappier.
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Old 02-29-2016, 01:27 AM   #2827
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Alright guys, question about spring rates.

I've been crunching numbers on my abacus using the data from the Suspension Model thread, and I calculated that to hit 2.5Hz front and rear, I would need 7kg/mm front and 8k/mm rear springs. What are your thoughts on these numbers? I was thinking this is a good place to start and I can adjust from there.

I was looking at Feal's 441 coilovers and going to have them put those rate Swift springs and have them revalve the damping accordingly.

I daily my car, however I don't mind a bumpy ride. I do 10-15 track days a year, so I'd rather lean towards lap times over comfort to a reasonable extent. I was only looking at lowering the car approximately 1 inch.

Right now my setup consists of:
-Whiteline front camber bolts
-Godspeed rear LCA's
-Whiteline front and rear sway bars
-Wedssport TC105N 17x9+35
-Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/40

Also, after I lower the car, what are your thoughts on roll center correction? I think I overheard someone say the dynamic roll center doesn't change too badly if you don't lower the car so much, and it wasn't necessary. Is Whiteline the only company that makes anything for this car in that aspect?

Thank you!
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:25 PM   #2828
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What the differences between tarmac 2 and koni yellow+ground control coil sleeves combo? I heard nothing but good things about tarmac 2, but my budget is a bit tight to spend $2400 on tarmac 2 + camber plates. What do you guys suggest? My goal is to give the car best handling for spirited driving, autox, and track. Even tho this is my DD, I don't care about ride quality. Comfortable ride is not an issue for me. Also with coilovers, i have the ability to do corner balance, but is this relevant for my purposes? I might see track few times a year, some autox, and bunch of spirited canyon runs.
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