Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[aKaGorganZola]

Oh. I thought that was where the green line was coming from. Yes that is what I remember reading. There is a capped off port there that lets you pull boost readings.

[B T]

you could either use the new port on the back or the green line shown in the photos.

[BirdTRD]

The spare port on the rear of the SC is ideal for the boost guage. This is the fitting you'll need 1/8" NPT Fitting: Universal Straight Barb. I bought mine here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Solu...72.m2749.l2649

[BR-ZED]

I hate to bring this up, but regarding oil, there was some good conversation on the merits of 0w20 and 5w30 about 10 pages back. Unfortunately, "oil" is 3 characters so you can't search for it within a thread easily... so searching the other 270+ pages of this thread isn't super easy. Keeping in mind everyone has a different opinion on this, seems like a lot of folks are running 5w30 and some are running 0w20. I'm running synthetic Valvoline 0w20, which is what I ran every oil change for when the car was NA. I don't drive the car below 40 degrees F because of my tires... but was leaning towards changing to 5w30.

Not particularly excited about running Motul 5w30 300V due to cost and not being able to get it locally. What oil brand would people recommend that you can also get locally (e.g., AutoZone?) Would normal run-of-the-mill Valvoline (synthetic) 5w30 be fine?

Driving is mostly commute, some spirited driving, and 3-4 autocrosses a season assuming they let us race again with COVID.

[aKaGorganZola]

I've run Mobil 1 since I got the car and had no issues. My buddy also runs it in his wrx with no issues. As long as you buy a quality full synthetic and stay on top of your intervals i doubt you'll have issues but oil seems to be the most divisive topic among car people so I'm sure everyone's got a favorite.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

I hate to bring this up, but regarding oil, there was some good conversation on the merits of 0w20 and 5w30 about 10 pages back. Unfortunately, "oil" is 3 characters so you can't search for it within a thread easily... so searching the other 270+ pages of this thread isn't super easy. Keeping in mind everyone has a different opinion on this, seems like a lot of folks are running 5w30 and some are running 0w20. I'm running synthetic Valvoline 0w20, which is what I ran every oil change for when the car was NA. I don't drive the car below 40 degrees F because of my tires... but was leaning towards changing to 5w30.

Not particularly excited about running Motul 5w30 300V due to cost and not being able to get it locally. What oil brand would people recommend that you can also get locally (e.g., AutoZone?) Would normal run-of-the-mill Valvoline (synthetic) 5w30 be fine?

Driving is mostly commute, some spirited driving, and 3-4 autocrosses a season assuming they let us race again with COVID.

300V is readily available via CSG. Literally a matter of submit an order, and get a box a few days later (or overnight if you choose to rush it).

The more important part, IMO, is making sure your oil temps are under control. If it's strictly a street car seeing occasional pulls, no cooler is just fine, but if you go for spirited drives where you hold higher RPMs (anything over 4000)for a sustained period of time, an oil cooler is your friend.

I do 10k intervals on my 300V, so the higher up front cost is actually not higher long term.

As always, use used oil analysis to determine your interval.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

I hate to bring this up, but regarding oil, there was some good conversation on the merits of 0w20 and 5w30 about 10 pages back. Unfortunately, "oil" is 3 characters so you can't search for it within a thread easily... so searching the other 270+ pages of this thread isn't super easy. Keeping in mind everyone has a different opinion on this, seems like a lot of folks are running 5w30 and some are running 0w20. I'm running synthetic Valvoline 0w20, which is what I ran every oil change for when the car was NA. I don't drive the car below 40 degrees F because of my tires... but was leaning towards changing to 5w30.

Not particularly excited about running Motul 5w30 300V due to cost and not being able to get it locally. What oil brand would people recommend that you can also get locally (e.g., AutoZone?) Would normal run-of-the-mill Valvoline (synthetic) 5w30 be fine?

Driving is mostly commute, some spirited driving, and 3-4 autocrosses a season assuming they let us race again with COVID.

Just a tip: use Google instead of the search engine here. Type your key words followed by site:ft86club.com to limit search results to this site.

I run 5w30 because Subaru uses it in all forced induction applications. 0w20 is like water when hot and is for fuel economy. Oil cooler if you are maintaining spirited intensity or higher intensity for a long time. Even higher weight oil if the car was a more dedicated track car, especially turbocharged, like 40 or 60 weight. Is it necessary? That is the question.

[ninjan00dles]

Hey folks, silly question for a soon to be Edelbrock owner. Are spark plugs any more difficult to get to with the supercharger installed? Is it advised to replace with colder plugs (my tuning knowledge is outdated sorry)? Is it advised to replace the coilpacks and plugs regardless before install (I'm at 67,000 miles)?

I'm gathering up parts for my install and am planning on new:

MAF Oring
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Injector Orings
Fuel Pump gasket (17555AA040)
OEM T-stat
Rad hoses

[Silvermk2]

I changed the spark plugs with it and probably the only big difference was the two big cooling hoses that run along side the valve cover. Still a gigantic PITA and took several hours to do.

[Z06ZN6]

Originally Posted by ninjan00dles

Hey folks, silly question for a soon to be Edelbrock owner. Are spark plugs any more difficult to get to with the supercharger installed? Is it advised to replace with colder plugs (my tuning knowledge is outdated sorry)? Is it advised to replace the coilpacks and plugs regardless before install (I'm at 67,000 miles)?

I'm gathering up parts for my install and am planning on new:

MAF Oring
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Injector Orings
Fuel Pump gasket (17555AA040)
OEM T-stat
Rad hoses

I dont know how long subaru stuff lasts and mine is only 17k miles or so, but the plugs and coil packs that came out of my wifes MBZ at 72kmi I would definitely not want to start with on a boosted car project. My experience is with old school boosted 5.0s and LS cars and I tend to replace these kind of things before doubling or tripling their horsepower. Lol. I am definitely more conservative than others on preventative maintenance and tend to replace things before they fail as a rule of thumb. The older I get, the less problems I want to deal with. I would just go with OEM plugs and coils. OEM stuff is almost always more reliable and much more affordable now with online wholesalers.

Since you are stock piling parts, also get some copper crush washers to replace the aluminum ones supplied by Edelbrock for the fuel line banjo on the mechanical fuel pump. Several people, including myself, had small leaks with the Edelbrock aluminum washers. Better yet, just get a replacement OEM Subaru crush washer set. They work fine on the Edelbrock banjo.

[Decep]

Originally Posted by ninjan00dles

Hey folks, silly question for a soon to be Edelbrock owner. Are spark plugs any more difficult to get to with the supercharger installed? Is it advised to replace with colder plugs (my tuning knowledge is outdated sorry)? Is it advised to replace the coilpacks and plugs regardless before install (I'm at 67,000 miles)?

I'm gathering up parts for my install and am planning on new:

MAF Oring
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Injector Orings
Fuel Pump gasket (17555AA040)
OEM T-stat
Rad hoses

I dont see the point in preemptively changing coilpacks but definitely change the spark plugs as you are 7k past the interval. I would do your tune on fresh plugs.

Knock on wood but im on my original coilpacks at 62k, 15k of those supercharged. I've been pleasantly surprised in general at the everyday reliability and have been getting 26-27 mpg depending on how i drive.

I just had the bypass valve changed to the new style by my mechanic but he said my original was ok. I just had it done as a preemptive measure.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

300V is readily available via CSG. Literally a matter of submit an order, and get a box a few days later (or overnight if you choose to rush it).

The more important part, IMO, is making sure your oil temps are under control. If it's strictly a street car seeing occasional pulls, no cooler is just fine, but if you go for spirited drives where you hold higher RPMs (anything over 4000)for a sustained period of time, an oil cooler is your friend.

I do 10k intervals on my 300V, so the higher up front cost is actually not higher long term.

As always, use used oil analysis to determine your interval.

I plan on an oil cooler, eventually. Right now the max oil temp I've seen is 210 or so... which I think is fine?

Do you also change every 6 months, regardless of mileage? I put about 5k miles on my car a year. Usually change the oil based on mileage alone, approximately 5k to 6k miles. I've never changed any of my cars based on time... I know some do.

[CSG Mike]

I put on enough miles where time hasn't ever been a concern for me.

[FR-S2GT86]