Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

I am in interested in buying this kit
i already have full bolts from header to exhaust (Tomei, OP,FP, Q300)
i currently have OFT but i can switch to ECUTek which most tuners prefers.
my question is i buy i with without tune or with tune?
i think with tune is correct answer but i want to check.

You can buy without the tune and get a tuning package from the likes of CSG, delicious, etc.. The tuner will provide the Ecutek dongle, deskey and license (all what's necessary for flashing the ECU).

You can still get Edelbrock's tune if you email them with your car and Ecutek details. The supercharger manual has the instructions on how to get their tune.

[AKITA]

Originally Posted by MaxTurbo

You can buy without the tune and get a tuning package from the likes of CSG, delicious, etc.. The tuner will provide the Ecutek dongle, deskey and license (all what's necessary for flashing the ECU).

You can still get Edelbrock's tune if you email them with your car and Ecutek details. The supercharger manual has the instructions on how to get their tune.

If you are going to have one of the mentioned tune it remotely, buy the whole package from them. If you are going with a local tuner .. I'd still play it safe and get the package with the edelbrock tune . But you may even have a local tuner that will sell a whole package with a base tune.. so it just depends on the situation and no one answer is correct it's why both options are available.

[Jaunt86]

I’m back at my Edelbrock install. New tuner got the MAP right on the first try. So even before starting it I knew we were in a better place. Sure enough, it fired right up!

However, it’s missing and not running well enough to take out. After some analysis the roughness is on 2 and 4 with the same pattern of missing while 1 and 3 are fine.

The tuner thinks it is a fueling issue because....

“
You can see where the ECU is using direction injection vs port injection and then you can see the roughness. It changes the roughness patterns when the ECU is using more direct injection (50 second mark and 2:40 mark) so there is a connection to fueling here for sure. The roughness patterns also match on 2 and 4 so I think there is something going on over on that side of the engine which is the driver's side so focus there and see what you can find.”

Great help, and so I dove in. The banjo fuel bolt is not leaking, I have that fixed. The number 4 injector could be twisted while 2 is tight. That doesn’t seem right. 1 and 3 are buried under the ECU so nothing to compare.

Other than that it seems normal. I don’t understand what would impact the side nearest the fuel pump vs 1 and 3 on the other side...

Any ideas?

[B T]

How long did you run it? I wonder if there is air in the fuel line. You can get a different ECU bracket to make those injectors easier to get to btw.

[Jaunt86]

Originally Posted by B T

How long did you run it? I wonder if there is air in the fuel line. You can get a different ECU bracket to make those injectors easier to get to btw.

I ran it for 2-4 minutes. I would think that was enough time. It seemed to get worse as it warmed up

[B T]

new direct injectors? if not, how many miles are on your engine?

[Gloonge]

Originally Posted by NotSoJDM

Attachment 129208

I fabbed up a system using a Mocal Tstat plate and Setrab 6 Series Cooler with -10AN lines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a super long shot, but is there anyway you can either get a photo (if youre still running it) of the brackets you made to mount the oil cooler. Or maybe describe them as best you can?


the one side seems simple enough, it just bolts to the crash beam. But the one that goes near the light has me baffled.



I was considering mounting it at an angle by the radiator stack, but I am concerned that it will either not get enough air or add to much heat to everything else.

[Jaunt86]

Originally Posted by B T

new direct injectors? if not, how many miles are on your engine?

I’m reusing the original ones per the Edelbrock install. They have 45,000 miles on them. They look good, but I’m going to clean them before reinstalling.

I’m at a bit of a loss since it’s both 2 and 4 acting together.

What’s the canister , diaphragm looking thing in the center of the fuel rail?

[Gloonge]

Originally Posted by Jaunt86

I’m reusing the original ones per the Edelbrock install. They have 45,000 miles on them. They look good, but I’m going to clean them before reinstalling.



I’m at a bit of a loss since it’s both 2 and 4 acting together.



What’s the canister , diaphragm looking thing in the center of the fuel rail?

Pressure regulator I would assume.

[B T]

yeha, that's just a little diaphragm that helps absorb pressure spikes from the fuel pump.

[aKaGorganZola]

Hey guys quick question. I've been loving the Edelbrock for the last couple months and I've basically got the tune with delicious set and done. My question is about "boost lag". I know the bypass is vacuum operated so I expected there to be a bit of a delay but I was wondering what you guys experience. The other day I did a pull from around 3k and it seemed like it waited longer than normal for the boost to hit.
I pulled a log and it seems to confirm that. Accel pedal was at 100% at 33-3400rpm and the map sensor went from .3 up to. 95bar and stayed basically the same as the way until 4600. It jumped right up to 1.5 by 47-4800 and climbed from there.
Seems like it shouldn't take that long but I'm still new so I could be wrong. Is it possible to control when the boost comes in through the tune?

[toast]

There is no such thing as boost lag in this system. The bypass valve should close in a few tenths of a second and any boost the SC is making will be instantly in the engine. You saw this boost jump in a log or you assumed it was boost because you felt a change in acceleration? If it is in a log, there is something up with your bypass valve. Starting at 3300 rpm the SC is only making like 2-3 psi of boost, as boost rises and you this the efficiency peak of the engine you will get a surge around 4500rpm. Is that what you felt?

Edit: Sorry, multitasking. If you saw it in a log it sounds like a bad map sensor, map sensor connection or bypass valve. Boost should build linearly.

[aKaGorganZola]

That's what I thought. From what I read i was expecting it to be very linear. I assumed it was just because the tune was off but we've got it dialed in pretty much at this point, or so I thought lol. I let Bill know about it but it was already late Friday so Monday I'll send the log i got to him. My second thought was that maybe when I was tidying up I zip tied something too close and it was interfering but it's clear. I also tested the valve today with a handheld vacuum tester and it actuates smoothly with no snags or anything so idk.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by aKaGorganZola

Hey guys quick question. I've been loving the Edelbrock for the last couple months and I've basically got the tune with delicious set and done. My question is about "boost lag". I know the bypass is vacuum operated so I expected there to be a bit of a delay but I was wondering what you guys experience. The other day I did a pull from around 3k and it seemed like it waited longer than normal for the boost to hit.
I pulled a log and it seems to confirm that. Accel pedal was at 100% at 33-3400rpm and the map sensor went from .3 up to. 95bar and stayed basically the same as the way until 4600. It jumped right up to 1.5 by 47-4800 and climbed from there.
Seems like it shouldn't take that long but I'm still new so I could be wrong. Is it possible to control when the boost comes in through the tune?

It should not take that long, and boost *can* be affected by the tune, although normally it shouldn't be.