Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[pro_turbo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Have a question about the Edelbrock kit? Ask in this thread, and I'll answer it, as well as copy it into the OP.

Is the Edelbrock Supercharger kit CARB legal?

As long as the rest of your drivetrain is stock, and you use the Edelbrock supplied tune, it is expected to soon be CARB legal. CARB testing is currently ongoing.


I already have EcuTek. Do I need to buy the Tuner kit or just the Hardware?

You need the kit without tuner, part number 15560. The CARB tune will be available for everyone to download, free of charge, from Edelbrock!


Which kit do I need to buy? My car is stock, and I want a plug-and-play solution.

You will want to buy the kit with tuner, part number 1556. This kit includes an Ecutek license, cable, and dongle, so that you can tune your own car.


Will XYZ oil cooler work with the Edelbrock E-Force supercharger?

Possibly,. The kit does not intrude on the space necessary to use some of the common oil cooler kits. Confirmed fitments include:
- Mishimoto (modification necessary)
- OEM (FA20DIT)
- Perrin
- Jackson Racing (modification necessary)
- Jackson Racing dual radiator/oil cooler


Will the supercharger overheat? Do I need to add additional cooling for the supercharger itself? What is the service interval?

The Supercharger itself will not overheat; it is a self contained lubrication system, and has been proven to work well on ALL of the TVS applications, including those on Audis and the Z06. The fluids needs to be changed every 100k miles.


What is the break-in period for the supercharger? How do I break it in?

There is no break-in period for Edelbrock superchargers. Each supercharger unit is ran at Edelbrock before it is packaged to ensure fitment and quality. You can drive it hard as soon as it is installed!

How does the powertrain warranty work?

If you are driving a FRS/BRZ with the Edelbrock supercharger installed, running the supplied Edelbrock tune, and the kit is installed by an authorized dealer, your dealership, or an ASE certified technician, then your drivetrain is warranted by Edelbrock for 3 years or 36k miles on your odometer, from the date you originally bought your car.

Have a brand new car and/or are worried about your factory warranty? Edelbrock has you covered!


I want more power. Are other pulleys available?

Yes, absolutely! The kit comes with a 3.25" pulley, but 3.00", 2.75", and 2.50" pulleys will be available as well.


How much power can this supercharger make?

In CARB exempt form, the supercharger makes about 280-300hp at the crank, utilizing approximately 60% of the supercharger's capability. With a larger crank pulley, smaller supercharger pulley, and E85, 500hp is very feasible. You'd need a built engine to sustain that type of power though, as well as a whole host of supporting mods (additional cooling, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, etc.)


What does this kit cost?



$4,649.87 without Ecutek
$5,399.87 with Ecutek

The Edelbrock provided calibration is (will be) available to everyone on their website.


The much requested "non-cartoony" dynograph.



If you have a leakly bypass valve:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

Owner's list
1. @FuzzyFunk
2. @NotSoJDM
3. @Nitro22
4. @JohnnyP
5. @illmatic
6. @clayrush
7. @Firesnake
8. @djdnz
9. @shiumai
10. @86fun
11. @Paulo86
12. @paiceyfan
13. @Tomcat07
14. @SK86
15. @caschnd1
16. @trd87t

Hey count me in.. i run with motec m150 though

[pro_turbo]

WHAT IS THE MAX BOOST of this SC?
with what pulley size?
anyone ever try that?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by pro_turbo

WHAT IS THE MAX BOOST of this SC?
with what pulley size?
anyone ever try that?

Depends on what your supporting mods are. You can always make the boost reading artificially higher by choking your engine.

[Side]

Has anyone experienced a faint hissing/whistling sound at idle on cold start? It goes away after driving for a bit. I don't remember hearing it last year, but I don't think it's the bypass valve either since everything is functioning properly.

[pro_turbo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Depends on what your supporting mods are. You can always make the boost reading artificially higher by choking your engine.

darton MID sleve
Wiseco HD 10.5 CR
SKunk2 Forged H beam Rods
King Bearings
Skunk2 Valvesprings set
ID1000 Injectors
DW340 Pump kit
SSP TC and VB stage 3+

[pro_turbo]

Originally Posted by Side

Has anyone experienced a faint hissing/whistling sound at idle on cold start? It goes away after driving for a bit. I don't remember hearing it last year, but I don't think it's the bypass valve either since everything is functioning properly.

running smooth on my side no hissing what soever. been using this SC since 2019

[B T]

Originally Posted by pro_turbo

darton MID sleve
Wiseco HD 10.5 CR
SKunk2 Forged H beam Rods
King Bearings
Skunk2 Valvesprings set
ID1000 Injectors
DW340 Pump kit
SSP TC and VB stage 3+

I believe the supercharger runs out of its efficiency range after 16 psi.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by pro_turbo

darton MID sleve
Wiseco HD 10.5 CR
SKunk2 Forged H beam Rods
King Bearings
Skunk2 Valvesprings set
ID1000 Injectors
DW340 Pump kit
SSP TC and VB stage 3+

What about exhaust mods?

[pro_turbo]

Originally Posted by B T

I believe the supercharger runs out of its efficiency range after 16 psi.

thanks that is a great help

[pro_turbo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

What about exhaust mods?

sorry forgot to mention
tomei Expreme Ti exhaust from front to back
Borla Short Header

[Nivikus]

Hey guys. I skimmed this thread but there's so much info to cover, I'm not sure where to begin. Looking for some advice on some troubleshooting.

Quick details:

• 2013 BRZ, currently 77k miles.
• Edelbrock SC installed at about 68k miles by my mechanic.
• Datalogged the tune from Edelbrock directly. Everything is smooth and good.
• Eventually, decide to step it up with Delicious Tuning, but do a little tune up beforehand to make sure it's ready. (New spark plugs, ignition coils, all OEM)
• I put about 500 miles on the car before ordering the new tune, to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Everything seemed fine.

So, I get the tune from Delicious Tuning with confidence. The tune is good, but during the datalogging process, I definitely noticed some hesitation between 2k-3k RPMs (the bottom of the power band I presume)
After many revisions and more datalogs, DT says they can't find any reason to believe it's the tune. The car and power delivery is fantastic after 3K rpm, so I don't have any reason to not believe them. Especially considering I'm a complete beginner and they're the experts.

Nine-ish months later, the hesitation is getting bad and I have CELs. P1170, P117B, and P0172. The car sometimes lurches under very gentle acceleration between 2K and 3K RPMs. It also nearly stalls sometimes when coming to a stop. I replaced the O2 sensors thinking they may be going bad. The car is great for about a day, but after a few more drives it seems to have come back. Part of the problem is how much difficulty I have recreating it. Some days it seems fine, especially once the car is up to temp.

I'm really not sure what to check now. I'm wondering if it's the MAP sensor? Injectors? Would that really only affect low RPMs and low throttle? I could take it back to my mechanic, but I'm pretty sure he'd just take it back to the tune from Edelbrock and go from there. I'm pretty sure I backed that up before switching to the DT tune, so I could probably do that myself if I wanted.

What steps would you guys take next?

[toast]

That sounds like the exact issue I had when running a Dbox - the wiring on the Dbox extension plug going to the MAP sensor was loose. I actually caught it in a datalog one time. It was worse when thing were cold, when the engine bay would heat up and the terminals expanded a little it would work fine.

Check the pins to see if they are loose, you can grab a new TMAP sensor for like $60.

If it is a wiring/sensor issue you will get it on the Edelbrock tune as well. You can try loading that back up and see what happens.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by Nivikus

Hey guys. I skimmed this thread but there's so much info to cover, I'm not sure where to begin. Looking for some advice on some troubleshooting.

Quick details:

• 2013 BRZ, currently 77k miles.
• Edelbrock SC installed at about 68k miles by my mechanic.
• Datalogged the tune from Edelbrock directly. Everything is smooth and good.
• Eventually, decide to step it up with Delicious Tuning, but do a little tune up beforehand to make sure it's ready. (New spark plugs, ignition coils, all OEM)
• I put about 500 miles on the car before ordering the new tune, to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Everything seemed fine.

So, I get the tune from Delicious Tuning with confidence. The tune is good, but during the datalogging process, I definitely noticed some hesitation between 2k-3k RPMs (the bottom of the power band I presume)
After many revisions and more datalogs, DT says they can't find any reason to believe it's the tune. The car and power delivery is fantastic after 3K rpm, so I don't have any reason to not believe them. Especially considering I'm a complete beginner and they're the experts.

Nine-ish months later, the hesitation is getting bad and I have CELs. P1170, P117B, and P0172. The car sometimes lurches under very gentle acceleration between 2K and 3K RPMs. It also nearly stalls sometimes when coming to a stop. I replaced the O2 sensors thinking they may be going bad. The car is great for about a day, but after a few more drives it seems to have come back. Part of the problem is how much difficulty I have recreating it. Some days it seems fine, especially once the car is up to temp.

I'm really not sure what to check now. I'm wondering if it's the MAP sensor? Injectors? Would that really only affect low RPMs and low throttle? I could take it back to my mechanic, but I'm pretty sure he'd just take it back to the tune from Edelbrock and go from there. I'm pretty sure I backed that up before switching to the DT tune, so I could probably do that myself if I wanted.

What steps would you guys take next?

I had similar issues. Mine ended up being the fuel injectors which I replaced with oem injectors. But I would try cleaning MAP sensor since oem injectors are about $400 for a set plus cleaning the MAP sensor is pretty easy to do. Check for vacuum leaks also.

[B T]

Possibly dirty direct injectors staying open. Mine were really bad at closer to 60k miles.