CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by MaverickMonk

Always appreciated Andrew. I guess I’ll need to suck it up and put it on the short list of To-Dos. Did you have any input re: sway bar endlinks and Rear LCA? Strongly encouraged vs do it someday vs stop majoring in the minors?

Rear LCAs are highly encouraged. Rear endlinks encouraged if using adjustable rear bar.

- Andrew

[MaverickMonk]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Rear LCAs are highly encouraged. Rear endlinks encouraged if using adjustable rear bar.

- Andrew

Sounds fair, thanks again Andrew. Got some SPC arms to put on, and I guess I’ll skip the end links for now, I’m planning on spending a year once I’m on coils getting alignment setup before I start tinkering with sway bars. Cheers!

[Cjymiller]

I'm still considering solutions for my rattling pillowball bearings on my rear top mounts. The easiest option would be to see if my OEM strut mounts match the diameter of my Ohlins R&T MI20.

Since I would have to pull the shocks and disassemble to determine this compatibility, I'm curious if this requires a realignment upon reassembly. The reason I ask is because I do not have any aftermarket suspension/handling components in the rear besides the Ohlins themselves (which are not camber adjustable), so I'm unsure how much variability there can be with my alignment after performing a top hat transplant.

Could anyone provide where on the scale of unnecessary-to-required, an alignment is after performing this experiment?

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Cjymiller

I'm still considering solutions for my rattling pillowball bearings on my rear top mounts. The easiest option would be to see if my OEM strut mounts match the diameter of my Ohlins R&T MI20.

Since I would have to pull the shocks and disassemble to determine this compatibility, I'm curious if this requires a realignment upon reassembly. The reason I ask is because I do not have any aftermarket suspension/handling components in the rear besides the Ohlins themselves (which are not camber adjustable), so I'm unsure how much variability there can be with my alignment after performing a top hat transplant.

Could anyone provide where on the scale of unnecessary-to-required, an alignment is after performing this experiment?

It shouldn't be necessary to realign.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Cjymiller

I'm still considering solutions for my rattling pillowball bearings on my rear top mounts. The easiest option would be to see if my OEM strut mounts match the diameter of my Ohlins R&T MI20.

Since I would have to pull the shocks and disassemble to determine this compatibility, I'm curious if this requires a realignment upon reassembly. The reason I ask is because I do not have any aftermarket suspension/handling components in the rear besides the Ohlins themselves (which are not camber adjustable), so I'm unsure how much variability there can be with my alignment after performing a top hat transplant.

Could anyone provide where on the scale of unnecessary-to-required, an alignment is after performing this experiment?

If your ride height changes, you should have your alignment checked.

- Andrew

[Top Gun]

I'm feeling a little uneasy about my alignment. Current set-up is 18x9.5 +38 on 255/35/18 lowered about 1.5 - 1.7" (Can barely fit a finger).
Is the toe too much? I had the alignment done 5 weeks ago.
Suspension: FA500 Gen 7, SPC upper camber bolt on the fronts, SPC LCA (toe bushing not installed), stock toe arms.

My alignment specs are:
Left Front: -2.7 | 0.08 toe
Right Front: -2.6 | 0.07 toe
Total Toe: 0.15
Steer ahead: 0

Left Rear: -2.1 | 0.15 toe
Right Rear: -2.3 | 0.12 toe
Total Toe: 0.27
Thrust Angle: 0.01

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Top Gun

I'm feeling a little uneasy about my alignment. Current set-up is 18x9.5 +38 on 255/35/18 lowered about 1.5 - 1.7" (Can barely fit a finger).
Is the toe too much? I had the alignment done 5 weeks ago.
Suspension: FA500 Gen 7, SPC upper camber bolt on the fronts, SPC LCA (toe bushing not installed), stock toe arms.

My alignment specs are:
Left Front: -2.7 | 0.08 toe
Right Front: -2.6 | 0.07 toe
Total Toe: 0.15
Steer ahead: 0

Left Rear: -2.1 | 0.15 toe
Right Rear: -2.3 | 0.12 toe
Total Toe: 0.27
Thrust Angle: 0.01

I'd say so. Especially with that much camber, but those toe figures are still within factory recommended range IIRC. I would at least reduce the toe in by 50% or more.

example:
+0~0.07 front combined toe-in

+0~0.15 rear combined toe-in

[Clutch Dog]

Is there a reason for running toe out in the rear? would make the car more skiddish it would seem

[Top Gun]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I'd say so. Especially with that much camber, but those toe figures are still within factory recommended range IIRC. I would at least reduce the toe in by 50% or more.

example:
+0~0.07 front combined toe-in

+0~0.15 rear combined toe-in

Correct it is within factory spec. The tech would set everything to within spec unless you say so. I clearly didn't pay attention to the toe. I'll bring it back and see if he can get close to 0 with the toe. Thanks!

[churchx]

Clutch Dog: positive values means toe-in, negative - toe-out. So if he had positive both front and rear, it's toe-in on both axles. In most cases for RWD cars common alignment choice is zero toe front, and slight toe-in rear, for some extra rear stability under throttle and if with limited grip. Toe-out .. it's more of specific uses/needs where one is willing to ignore drawbacks. For example, if you make drift alignment with stock NA power, to ease loosing grip (as those that have enough power probably wouldn't resort to such 'hacks' with toe settings, rather prefering more control)

Top Gun: i'd probably prefer to dial front toe to zero. Maybe 0.2 total rear toe, but your rear +0.27dg toe is not that off to care. Still, your current overall your alignment seems drivable, with maybe a bit dulled steering.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Top Gun

Correct it is within factory spec. The tech would set everything to within spec unless you say so. I clearly didn't pay attention to the toe. I'll bring it back and see if he can get close to 0 with the toe. Thanks!

^ a bit of toe in the back for stability going straight.

I've seen some people setting toe-out either just the front or just the rear for turning characteristics. But like churchx was saying, usually these people know what they are giving up to get a desired effect. I like to run as much camber as reasonable for my use and 0 toe or "toe-less" for better wear up front.

JK maybe a touch of toe-in depending on how I feel. Just get 2 24-25" long boards and you can set your own toe however you like with reasonable accuracy. Toe-plates, DIY style.

Toeless

[BlueWhelan]

Back when I had only -.6 degrees of camber, I ran roughly .1 total toe out in the rear to get the rear to rotate. Was kinda sketchy on bumpy downhill canyon runs, but on an auto-x course it had the desired effect.

Now that I have over -2 degrees in front, there's no need for toe out anymore.

[jmoham]

I daily drive my car with spirited driving, never track or auto x. Currently I am running on coils with 18x9.5 +40 wheels squared on 245/35 tires. I have been debating about going on air for a handful of reasons. I have two questions; are bags specifically airlift performance series, are they a comfortable ride similar to stock or softer spring rate coils? Secondly, is it possible to fit my wheels while clearing the bags? Maybe adding spacers hoping it wont have issues with my fender as well. If not I would definitely find a newer setup with a lower offset but would it be possible to run them temporarily? Will it clear while riding and the only con is not airing out for the time being or something along those lines? Thank you!

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by jmoham

I daily drive my car with spirited driving, never track or auto x. Currently I am running on coils with 18x9.5 +40 wheels squared on 245/35 tires. I have been debating about going on air for a handful of reasons. I have two questions; are bags specifically airlift performance series, are they a comfortable ride similar to stock or softer spring rate coils? Secondly, is it possible to fit my wheels while clearing the bags? Maybe adding spacers hoping it wont have issues with my fender as well. If not I would definitely find a newer setup with a lower offset but would it be possible to run them temporarily? Will it clear while riding and the only con is not airing out for the time being or something along those lines? Thank you!

Your suspension links will stay the same length when you adjust the height via airbag, so you'd want to settle on a 'cruising ride height' and set your alignment for that specific height. I'd set it high in the rear for more of a camber gain when you rest it on the floor. If your wheels clear the fender at 'cruising height' it will surely clear the fender when you drop the ride height. On the air-bag side, no so sure.

That's the only thing I can think of as I have 0 experience with bags besides handling them when displayed at shows. Hopefully someone with airbags on their car can chime in. This thread there is not much talk abut airbags, but keyword search is your friend. I'm sure there is more info floating around somewhere on this website.