Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[EddyEggnog]

Hey everyone, I started the install of my C38 JRSC tonight. I bought it used from a local guy who had already sold his FRS but claimed to have all the parts. I asked him about the PCV valve, upgraded MAF sensor, etc but didn't check every single part before I bought it.

I ran into an issue with the pulley and stud that gets installed on the alternator side. I don't have a second 76mm pulley and I don't have the two stepped spacers that the pulley is supposed to sit on.

I can get a flat 76mm pulley pretty easily from Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone near me tomorrow, but I can't find any info on a replacement for the stepped spacers. The part number that the instruction manual lists as an "8mm ID stepped idler spacer" is 2630-07-J01 but literally the only reference to that part number online is the PDF of the install instructions. (And now this page I guess).

I found a couple close-up pictures from videos online of people doing the install. The spacers look like this:



Can I find a similar spacer at Lowe's or Home Depot or something? Some spacer that has an ID of 8mm and a OD of whatever the pulley needs. And if I can't find one that has the steps that keeps the pulley aligned, what do you think of putting some washers on each end to keep the pulley aligned instead, just as a temporary measure?

I'm going to reach out to Jackson Racing on Monday and try to order the parts from them. I realize I should probably just wait on the install until they arrive, but I'm antsy to get it tuned and going and not just sitting on jack stands in my garage all week. And the parts I'm missing don't seem that specialized or critical as long as the belt lines up correctly. A jury-rigged solution should work for the next few days at least... right?

[JDMChris]

They're custom spacers. Call Jackson Racing and order them.

[EddyEggnog]

I got the spacers ordered from Jackson Racing. For future reference they are $13.49 each. I'm glad they have the parts available and are sending them to me but I'm bummed that I won't be able to finish the install until later this week 😓

[PulsarBeeerz]

I have always used a setup similar to a forums member's example below. I didn't know if it made any difference at all until I data logged for a tune revision after changing exhaust setups. Using VD I tried to get similar conditions for testing:
Full tank of 93oct,
~80F Air temp,
~29.9-30.0 inHg
35 psi in tires.

The butt dyno didn't lie. The intake temp was consistently 5* C higher at the beginning of pulls with the Std JRSC air filter location. Additionally that location saw a 20*C delta from beginning to end of pull.

The bumper location saw consistent 15*C delta and started cooler initially. Mass airflow reading with the in-bay intake peaked at 223 (g/s) vs Bumper 239 (g/s) where the sensor maxes out its scale.

There is a major downside I have found mounting the filter in the bumper. The SC doesn't sound nearly as nice or loud! I had no idea how this kit actually sounded until the filter was in the Std location. BUT, I'll just deal with it.

Results will vary but, often FI cars with inside the engine bay intakes are dyno'd with the hood open. Cooling aside, this is not realistic at all. I wager none of them actually make whatever power the dyno says the second that hood is closed. We would never run an open filter in the engine bay NA; so why do we do it FI? An easy reference to correlate my result is from a YouTube video shot by Speed Academy. Their 260+ whp JRSC FRS barely walked a bolt-on AP2. 260whp and similar weight should leave buses in between vs 210whp. However, perhaps the car only ever made 230whp the second they close the hood? They attributed the results to the more aggressive gearing of the S2K. It wasn't the gearing. IMO


TL/DR

Blue: Stock JRSC intake location in the engine bay.
Red and Green: Intake similar to below.

Same tune for all.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

I have always used a setup similar to a forums member's example below. I didn't know if it made any difference at all until I data logged for a tune revision after changing exhaust setups. Using VD I tried to get similar conditions for testing:
Full tank of 93oct,
~80F Air temp,
~29.9-30.0 inHg
35 psi in tires.

The butt dyno didn't lie. The intake temp was consistently 5* C higher at the beginning of pulls with the Std JRSC air filter location. Additionally that location saw a 20*C delta from beginning to end of pull.

The bumper location saw consistent 15*C delta and started cooler initially. Mass airflow reading with the in-bay intake peaked at 223 (g/s) vs Bumper 239 (g/s) where the sensor maxes out its scale.

There is a major downside I have found mounting the filter in the bumper. The SC doesn't sound nearly as nice or loud! I had no idea how this kit actually sounded until the filter was in the Std location. BUT, I'll just deal with it.

Results will vary but, often FI cars with inside the engine bay intakes are dyno'd with the hood open. Cooling aside, this is not realistic at all. I wager none of them actually make whatever power the dyno says the second that hood is closed. We would never run an open filter in the engine bay NA; so why do we do it FI? An easy reference to correlate my result is from a YouTube video shot by Speed Academy. Their 260+ whp JRSC FRS barely walked a bolt-on AP2. 260whp and similar weight should leave buses in between vs 210whp. However, perhaps the car only ever made 230whp the second they close the hood? They attributed the results to the more aggressive gearing of the S2K. It wasn't the gearing. IMO


TL/DR

Blue: Stock JRSC intake location.
Red and Green are inner bumper cover intake location.

Same tune for all.

Sorry whats going on with the red again ?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Sorry whats going on with the red again ?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Red and green lines are with the intake in the bumper.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

Red and green lines are with the intake in the bumper.

Yeah I got that .. I wanted to know why Red was different from green...

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

I have always used a setup similar to a forums member's example below. I didn't know if it made any difference at all until I data logged for a tune revision after changing exhaust setups. Using VD I tried to get similar conditions for testing:
Full tank of 93oct,
~80F Air temp,
~29.9-30.0 inHg
35 psi in tires.

The butt dyno didn't lie. The intake temp was consistently 5* C higher at the beginning of pulls with the Std JRSC air filter location. Additionally that location saw a 20*C delta from beginning to end of pull.

The bumper location saw consistent 15*C delta and started cooler initially. Mass airflow reading with the in-bay intake peaked at 223 (g/s) vs Bumper 239 (g/s) where the sensor maxes out its scale.

There is a major downside I have found mounting the filter in the bumper. The SC doesn't sound nearly as nice or loud! I had no idea how this kit actually sounded until the filter was in the Std location. BUT, I'll just deal with it.

Results will vary but, often FI cars with inside the engine bay intakes are dyno'd with the hood open. Cooling aside, this is not realistic at all. I wager none of them actually make whatever power the dyno says the second that hood is closed. We would never run an open filter in the engine bay NA; so why do we do it FI? An easy reference to correlate my result is from a YouTube video shot by Speed Academy. Their 260+ whp JRSC FRS barely walked a bolt-on AP2. 260whp and similar weight should leave buses in between vs 210whp. However, perhaps the car only ever made 230whp the second they close the hood? They attributed the results to the more aggressive gearing of the S2K. It wasn't the gearing. IMO


TL/DR

Blue: Stock JRSC intake location in the engine bay.
Red and Green: Intake similar to below.

Same tune for all.

I was also thinking the same thing and was wondering if a TRD style intake could be fit on the JRSC.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Yeah I got that .. I wanted to know why Red was different from green...

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Look at the atmospheric conditions. Red is 86 F, green and blue are 80 F.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

Look at the atmospheric conditions. Red is 86 F, green and blue are 80 F.

Oh gotcha thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[Jackson Racing]

Eh, I doubt moving your intake resulted in a 30hp gain. I think the "virtual" dyno is giving you a false reading.

Filter location is for maintenance, ease of concern that your filter is actually connected/filtering air, and for easiest draw for the supercharger unit. As long as your bumper intake doesn't cause unnecessary restriction for the supercharger and you are good about maintenance, cooler air draw is not a bad thing. It just won't have the huge gains mentioned.

-Oscar Jr.

[Brz866]

Throwing in my 2 cents this is my setup. Perrin foam filter with recommended Amazon pipes from another post on here. I can confirm as well that it makes a noticeable difference in performance. As far as sound I can't hear almost any of the good noises anymore but apparently everyone pulling up next to me can hear it clear as day.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

Eh, I doubt moving your intake resulted in a 30hp gain. I think the "virtual" dyno is giving you a false reading.

Filter location is for maintenance, ease of concern that your filter is actually connected/filtering air, and for easiest draw for the supercharger unit. As long as your bumper intake doesn't cause unnecessary restriction for the supercharger and you are good about maintenance, cooler air draw is not a bad thing. It just won't have the huge gains mentioned.

-Oscar Jr.

I agree that the difference shouldn't be THAT large. I usually get pretty consistent results from VD which is why it stuck out as the only change was filter local after a few runs to verify as it was unexpected. But even without looking at VD the difference in MAF (g/s) sensor readings and IAT was enough for me to take notice.



Curious, did you all try either option during development years ago? I know a competitor who also used Rotex units went with the intake outside of the engine bay. No idea if it was performance or packaging based.

[FRScott]

Hey all. Just installed my C38 kit with the CARB tune and after a week of obsessively ensuring that everything is running well, it seems like everything is running as it should.

I do have a question regarding how the tune works with a stock MAP sensor vs. a higher resolution MAP sensor like a 3 bar unit. I know that there are people who have installed the kit with an aftermarket MAP unit and were able to see higher boost. If I installed a higher pressure MAP unit, will the CARB tune adjust for the higher boost or will I need to retune?