WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by Kiske

That recir dump that isn't bolted down is definitely going to leak. :P

Yeah it's not finalized!! Everything is a bit loose, can't tighten the exhaust pieces until it's connected to the rest of the exhaust. That'd be an exciting noise to hear on the dyno though.

Leave my nasty ass intake manifold alone! It's been through a lot

[RToyo86]

It's about that time. Rolled over 86k km.
Not particularly looking forward to this

[pope]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

It's about that time. Rolled over 86k km.
Not particularly looking forward to this

I did mine this spring. Tried the whole "assemble the socket and extensions in the plug hole nonsense" for 45 minutes while bloodying my hands and getting 1 plug done. Said eff-it. Jacked up the engine. Had the other 3 done with the car back on the ground and running 45 minutes later.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

It's about that time. Rolled over 86k km.
Not particularly looking forward to this

aren't these due at 100K?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by pope

I did mine this spring. Tried the whole "assemble the socket and extensions in the plug hole nonsense" for 45 minutes while bloodying my hands and getting 1 plug done. Said eff-it. Jacked up the engine. Had the other 3 done with the car back on the ground and running 45 minutes later.

That is how I was planning to tackle it. Sounds like I will skip to jacking up the engine
What jacking point did you end up using? The header?

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

aren't these due at 100K?

Yep, but I figure no harm done if I do it a bit early. 100k probably puts my mileage around February. Not particularly interested in doing this in the dead of winter.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Yep, but I figure no harm done if I do it a bit early. 100k probably puts my mileage around February. Not particularly interested in doing this in the dead of winter.

Oh I see. I think I'm at 77K still. And I don't drive that much so I think it might be 2 more years until I hit 100

[pope]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

That is how I was planning to tackle it. Sounds like I will skip to jacking up the engine
What jacking point did you end up using? The header?

I used a length of 2x4 scrap (roughly the length the header hangs from the head) stood vertical against the where engine mount bolts on the block.

I know a lot people say to use the header as a jack point (and it seems fairly stout), but i had the board handy and didn’t want to risk being the unlucky person to crush a header. I tried shaking the engine before putting my hands any place the could get crushed if the board shifted and it didn’t budge. Use your best judgement.

[Cedric]

Bride Zeta IV came after almost half a year of waiting. First thing I did was make sure I fit LOL I heard it’s a pretty tight fit and I fit okay I guess





I still need to purchase mounts but I’m still figuring out which ones I want to get, so if anybody has any suggestions please let me know. (Preferably without sliders)


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[villainous_frx]

Originally Posted by Cedric

Bride Zeta IV came after almost half a year of waiting. First thing I did was make sure I fit LOL I heard it’s a pretty tight fit and I fit okay I guess

I still need to purchase mounts but I’m still figuring out which ones I want to get, so if anybody has any suggestions please let me know. (Preferably without sliders)


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I just installed a Bride Zeta IV in my car, and I agree it is quite snug. Definitely not for anyone super massive (at 6 foot 32" waist 160lbs, I hardly fit). For my seat, I used a Bride FO rail. If you have a car that uses Torx bolts (2012-15 iirc) you will need to either: get the normal bolts (17+) *OR* buy a special torx wrench, as a normal socket WILL NOT fit under the back of the FO rail slider.

That aside, the FO rail are awesome and very sturdy. Instructions are pretty straight forward and it took me about 45 minutes start to finish (though this is now my third Bride seat install in a Subaru).

Since you don't want sliders, I would suggest either a Bride solid mount system or PCI solid mounts. Both an excellent products and very sturdy.

[Cedric]

Originally Posted by villainous_frx

I just installed a Bride Zeta IV in my car, and I agree it is quite snug. Definitely not for anyone super massive (at 6 foot 32" waist 160lbs, I hardly fit). For my seat, I used a Bride FO rail. If you have a car that uses Torx bolts (2012-15 iirc) you will need to either: get the normal bolts (17+) *OR* buy a special torx wrench, as a normal socket WILL NOT fit under the back of the FO rail slider.

That aside, the FO rail are awesome and very sturdy. Instructions are pretty straight forward and it took me about 45 minutes start to finish (though this is now my third Bride seat install in a Subaru).

Since you don't want sliders, I would suggest either a Bride solid mount system or PCI solid mounts. Both an excellent products and very sturdy.

Thanks for the advice!


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[SportyTaco86]

I need to get caught up since it seems like I've been constantly working on this car since I bought it a few weeks ago. Primarily I'm waiting on parts, but today I pulled the back dash panel area to remove the absolutely craptastic tint that was on the back glass and rear side windows. How bad was it you ask? It was like looking through a stained glass window. The adhesion was so bad I pulled it all off in one sheet with no residue left behind without using a heat gun, steamer, or any other removal medium. The most difficult part has proven to be getting all of the panels back in place while sweating and swearing profusely...

[Cedric]

Bride Seat installed using PCI Adjustable
Floor Mounts. No issues with install.




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[SportyTaco86]

Installed Tein Flex Z coilovers and got the front Whiteline sway bar in. Rear bar should be delivered tomorrow.

Also, there should be a special place in hell for techs that use the “send it” setting on their impact guns when installing lug nuts.

[Bonburner]

Finally got my AC recharged!
I was getting warm/room temperature air blowing at a red light. Waiting to test later today and tomorrow when it hits high 80s to 90s to test how effective it is.

update: Much better. My car blows cold airs within 2 seconds of being turned on. It continues to blow cold air sitting at a red light. Wish I did this sooner!