STX setup sharing thread (2020)

[Breadman]

i cant remember if i asked this or not, but im getting RE71rs this year, what kind of alignment should i be looking at while still being able to daily on my indys and not shred them? -3.5 front with 1/16" toe out and -2.5 back with 1/16" toe in? i was running -2.5 front and -2 back with 1/8" toe and that wasnt nearly enough on my indys. I even maxed out my front plates at -3ish and it seemed like it needed more

[skylinekin]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

They are also OE on brz TS/series blue/etc, I was thinking they came on 15+ or there was some chang in the panels on a 15ish+

Awesome thanks!

[FastWhite]

I DD with -3.0F and -2.4R. Rivals and MPSS. Haven’t noticed any excessive wear. Just the standard AX wear. Also 1/16 toe out and 1/8 toe in. Front/Rear
Car has 31K+, and I put coilovers on at 96 miles.


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[sifl]

I decided to upgrade to the Karcepts' bar.

With my RCE T3s, the mounting points for the endlinks required one side to use a short jam nut at the top of the Karcepts' endlinks. Only one side.

The right side of my BRZ, at full droop, is 4mm shorter than the left side. Brian Karwan helped with a lot of insight and advice getting everything set for my car to use the full capabilities of the bar.

I'm looking forward to more adjustability. I finished last year using the OEM 2013 front bar, and though it worked ok with my setup. I know the Karcepts bar will allow other suspension tuning this year.

After all of the measuring and test fitting, I've also decided to run -4.1 camber and no toe out in the front.

I do street drive my BRZ, but I use the stock wheels and tires for that, so I'm not concerned about the alignment wearing tires prematurely.

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[bslate3]

I think the new hot tire, the Yokos, needs more camber too. As long as your toe is set close to zero.

[strat61caster]

-4.1° Front zero toe, over 10k miles on my Indy's and the inside edges are worn out, I should have rotated sooner but you know off season. Rear at -2.3° and 1/16" toe in look great, will rotate and try to squeeze another few months out of them. I think -3.5 would be a good compromise up front and I'm pretty happy with zero toe but I should try some toe out just for kicks. Car is daily driven though I would probably make adjustment on site for an event.

Haven't been on a rack in like a year tho, probably going to -4/-2.5 and keeping toe the same as a base line.

[steverife]

Originally Posted by sifl

I decided to upgrade to the Karcepts' bar.

With my RCE T3s, the mounting points for the endlinks required one side to use a short jam nut at the top of the Karcepts' endlinks. Only one side.

The right side of my BRZ, at full droop, is 4mm shorter than the left side. Brian Karwan helped with a lot of insight and advice getting everything set for my car to use the full capabilities of the bar.

I'm looking forward to more adjustability. I finished last year using the OEM 2013 front bar, and though it worked ok with my setup. I know the Karcepts bar will allow other suspension tuning this year.

After all of the measuring and test fitting, I've also decided to run -4.1 camber and no toe out in the front.

I do street drive my BRZ, but I use the stock wheels and tires for that, so I'm not concerned about the alignment wearing tires prematurely.

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So you had to extend the endlink? Is the mounting point higher up the body than stock?

[sifl]

For my setup, the endlinks were almost too long. A little about the Karcepts bar: hole 1, the softest setting, is the furthest away from the top endlink mounting. Hole 4 is the closest. The endlinks have the spinning center barrel to adjust their length.

The left side just fit into hole 4 with the fully shortened endlink. The right side, with the slightly shorter droop, would not allow the endlink to fit into hole 4. To address that, I was sent slightly shorter nuts to secure the endlinks' ends. That shortened the endlink enough to fit.

What appears to be the case is that the endlink mounts on my struts are too low. Several other struts, including the OEM, have the endlink mounts attached much higher, so the Karcepts endlinks work fine and are usually threaded outwards.

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[SON1C]

Originally Posted by tony_r

That's not a IMO build, that's the current national champ build. Teddie's car is a carbon copy of my old car and Jeff Wong's original build. Some parts are slightly different but they all serve the same purpose. And she didn't have the rear LCA's either.

The Whiteline bar is stiffer than the Perrin because bar angles, so you're basically stuck on full soft or it pushes. Depending on your coilovers rates.

any links or write-ups for these or comparable builds?

[M0nk3y]

Here I copied and pasted my setup and updated some items:

2016 Scion FRS:

Suspension:
MCS 2W Remotes - Custom Revalve & Coated Piston
400/350# Rates
Raceseng Camber Plates/Raceseng 1" Top Hats in Rear
Front: -4.2* Camber, 0 Toe
Rear: -2.5* Camber, 1/16" Total In
Ride Height - Front Wheels 25" from floor to center of fender above wheel. Rear set for 1/8" Rake
Karwan FSB
Mann Rear Bar set of Stiff (I adjust all the time though). RacerX Endlinks
RacerX LCA
Whiteline Subframe Insert Bushings
STi Engine Mounts
Whiteline Rear Transmission Bushing Insert

Engine:
aFe Momentum Intake
JDL 4-2-1 Header
JDL Ultra Quiet FP/OP Combo w/Cat
Perrin 2.5" Exhaust
MotoEast/XeroLimit Custom Dyno Tune
Perrin Oil Cooler

Wheels/Tires/Misc
AP Racing BBK w/Ferodo DS2500s
RPF1s 17x9 +35 with 245/40/17 RivalS 1.5s + Yokohama AO52s
Antigravity 680CA Battery w/PFTuning Tray
Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace

I don't know if I'm forgetting something, I probably am

[MoarTorqs]

Kyle, have you been happy with your aFe intake? I haven't looked at intakes again for a few years, but have been running the stock with an Avo dry drop-in filter.

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by MoarTorqs

Kyle, have you been happy with your aFe intake? I haven't looked at intakes again for a few years, but have been running the stock with an Avo dry drop-in filter.

Honestly I bought it because it did a massive price drop on Amazon and I pulled the trigger when I started building the car.

Never had the car tuned before it, so can't say if there is any appreciable gains or anything like that.

[MoarTorqs]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

Honestly I bought it because it did a massive price drop on Amazon and I pulled the trigger when I started building the car.

Never had the car tuned before it, so can't say if there is any appreciable gains or anything like that.

Thanks. It seemed like most of the ones out there when I first looked didn't really help, so I was curious if that had changed. For this year, I mostly need to get my suspension tuned better to stop the push and focus on driving and getting seat time on concrete... So, with a little luck, I'll be at Crows and Spring Nats to work on that...

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by MoarTorqs

Thanks. It seemed like most of the ones out there when I first looked didn't really help, so I was curious if that had changed. For this year, I mostly need to get my suspension tuned better to stop the push and focus on driving and getting seat time on concrete... So, with a little luck, I'll be at Crows and Spring Nats to work on that...

Good man, Spring Nats is where it's at, I'll see you there

More fun than Nats