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Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) Wash, Wax, Details, Repairs


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Old 05-05-2020, 09:20 PM   #15
RWD fun
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you misunderstand the process. a drill does not have the torque required. you also don't want low speed. but you don't want extremely high speed either.

buffing technique is about speed, pressure, and movement/angle. varying any of those things by any amount will change the final product.

paint is like thick clay. it can be moved, shifted, or melted. always start at low speed, with low pressure, and move perpendicular across the damaged area, or across the same area in opposing sweeps to minimize pushing paint that's not needed.

higher speed moves paint faster across a larger area while also working faster, where higher pressure increases friction which moves a larger quantity of paint. it's important to understand you can always do more later, but applying too much speed or pressure can cause mistakes that aren't reversible with a buffer.



you won't with this. paintless dent repair is voodoo wrapped in witchcraft, embedded in layers of finesse. i've watched the guys do it, sometimes over the course of hours, sometimes they'll explain what they're doing and how as they do it. i understand all the tools and techniques they use. i even have a couple. but all i've ever managed is to make an 'inny' an 'outy'.



no. a sander is not the same as a buffer. at the very least, go to harbor freight for their $80 dual action polisher. but then you still need pads, compound, clay, lubricant, microfiber towels, and wax. basically, you're going to blow through your $200 budget before even getting started.

if $200 is your hard limit, seriously consider talking to a detail shop. some of them will likely have paint correction packages for less than that. the real cost here is the tools and materials to get started.
$200 isn't a hard limit. I want to get it right the first, so I'll definitely continue doing my homework on this matter.
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Old 05-20-2020, 09:40 AM   #16
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Mine's also 2013. Detailing my vehicles is a hobby I've been doing since 1999.

Prep you paint by properly washing it with CAR SHAMPOO & not liquid soap as this will strip off any other paint protection on your car especially the ones that you can't reach. Liquid soap may also remove anti-corrosion treatments done on your car.

CLAY only when needed as this is an abrasive too. Check by running your hand covered with plastic like Ziploc. If it's not smooth, they clay it with a clay bar or clay mitt & make sure to keep the surface well lubricated with either a quick detailer or even with soapy water. Claying will remove old waxes/sealants and other surface contaminants that's why you don't need a very strong soap.

You want to preserve the clear coat that's why you have to refrain from using aggressive products.

Now that your paint is prepped, it's time to CORRECT the paint

Here are what I've used for paint correction that are SAFE on the clear coat:

Meguiar's MT300 Dual Action Polisher ($215)

Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Compound ($28, 16oz) - removes deeper surface scratches & swirl marks

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish ($13, 20oz) -adds depth, gloss, & shine on the paint, & removes fine scratches too

Meguiar's Ultimate Wax ($17, 20 oz)- protects the job done by the polish & adds shine

Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Coating Spray ($19)- protects above-mentioned longer & also adds gloss & shine for 6-12 months.

You can YouTube these products on how to use them & to know more about their characteristics.

If you really want the longer-lasting ceramic coating that lasts for years, leave it to the pro's since it's very meticulous to apply & needs proper curing.


I have recently done my annual paint correction & added the Turtle Wax HS Ceramic Coating Spray 2 weeks ago:



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Old 05-27-2020, 12:56 PM   #17
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You need a paint less dent guy. Or YouTube it and give it a try. If it was my car I would try to get some of those dents out. Don’t go to far and make it worse, but after watching some vids you could improve some.

Other than that , wash, clay, polish if you are up to it. Only compound if polish did not take out scratches. Don’t want to remove too much clear coat. Then seal it, wait a day and wax it. After that use detailer from time to time to keep that beading and protection up until next wash.

Good luck
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:10 PM   #18
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You need a paint less dent guy. Or YouTube it and give it a try. If it was my car I would try to get some of those dents out. Don’t go to far and make it worse, but after watching some vids you could improve some.

Other than that , wash, clay, polish if you are up to it. Only compound if polish did not take out scratches. Don’t want to remove too much clear coat. Then seal it, wait a day and wax it. After that use detailer from time to time to keep that beading and protection up until next wash.

Good luck
The plan now is to get an estimate, with the understanding that I'll prep the body panels so that the PDR guy won't have to remove any trim or panels to get to the dents. My end goal is to restore the car as close to factory new as possible, and spice up the look of the car with minor things. (black lug nuts, spoiler, dash alcantera, etc etc).
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:29 PM   #19
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The plan now is to get an estimate, with the understanding that I'll prep the body panels so that the PDR guy won't have to remove any trim or panels to get to the dents. My end goal is to restore the car as close to factory new as possible, and spice up the look of the car with minor things. (black lug nuts, spoiler, dash alcantera, etc etc).
Make sure to post before and after pics!
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Old 05-27-2020, 09:26 PM   #20
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Make sure to post before and after pics!
You got it bud!
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