Confusion on Lugnuts

[dostoyevsky]

I would not use OEM, recently I've found the OEM lugs are the reason my fucking studs keep breaking.

I always hand tighten and use a torque wrench

[86MLR]

I've had my wheels on and off dozens of times, standard nuts, standard studs, never a issue.

Meh

[bobbinator]

Originally Posted by leevanf

Hi Guys,

Im about to purchase a TWS T66F on 17x8 but am really confused on which is the most high-quality, durable for DD lugnut out there.

Research so far has lead me towards getting these features: steel, 60 Conical that has a longer seat than OEM, closed end, and short.
What are the options for this type?

The interesting ones i saw are:
1. McGards (whats the diff between spline drive vs.. not?)
2. STI by McGards
3. Kics R40 Iconix? (altho they are 2 pc.)

Thanks!

I have rpf1 17x8 with muteki lug nuts and it works and looks good.

[Thunder86]

When I was still parking under a car port, I used my discontinued set of "KICS Dency 2000 Locking Lug Nuts". They have a free-spinning magnetic jacket that goes over each locking nut and will only be removed with the provided magnet (or some very very aggressive methods). I still have these just in case. Demonstration I found: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoFde55P7Uk[/ame]

Nowadays, I park in a garage at home and at work. I use 5 sets of "Project Kics Tuskey Bull Lock" lug nuts. Forged steel in black, and they are a very cool swirly 5-pointed star shape. Shout out to FT-86 Speedfactory for going out of there way for me!
Where I purchased: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/proj...Q#.XP8M7S2ZOqA

You bought yourself a bitchin' set of wheels, why not get yourself some bitchin' lug nuts to boot!

[Impureclient]

Originally Posted by Thunder86

When I was still parking under a car port, I used my discontinued set of "KICS Dency 2000 Locking Lug Nuts". They have a free-spinning magnetic jacket that goes over each locking nut and will only be removed with the provided magnet (or some very very aggressive methods).

Or just a regular magnet: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeDBpKyl8i0[/ame]


Any wheel lock can be defeated eventually. If a thief knows your wheels are expensive and wants them, they ARE getting them off.
I think getting multiple sets of different kinds of "locking" nuts would give them the most trouble to waste their time though.

[Thunder86]

Originally Posted by Impureclient

Or just a regular magnet:

Any wheel lock can be defeated eventually. If a thief knows your wheels are expensive and wants them, they ARE getting them off.
I think getting multiple sets of different kinds of "locking" nuts would give them the most trouble to waste their time though.

I actually saw this video, with relief, before I purchased the fancy lugs (worth trying for $80). One of my fears was losing the magnetic key! (Again, these are discontinued).

I then found multiple forum threads where other car owners attempted to use random magnets, including mechanic's magnets, after seeing this video to try and remove the jacket after losing their key, to no success. An example of this is actually in the comments of this particular video...

My justification if one continues to use these fancy lug nuts is 99.99% of people who are stealing wheels will not readily know that these strange wheel locks are magnetic. The chance of them then returning with the perfect magnet to remove the jacket is even lower.

However, it is 100% truth that if someone really wants to steal your shit, their going to steal it.

[Impureclient]

Originally Posted by Thunder86

My justification if one continues to use these fancy lug nuts is 99.99% of people who are stealing wheels will not readily know that these strange wheel locks are magnetic. The chance of them then returning with the perfect magnet to remove the jacket is even lower.

However, it is 100% truth that if someone really wants to steal your shit, their going to steal it.

Yep. That magnet system would definitely hold somebody up for sure even if they were very prepared.
Fortunately for me, I'm in an area that really doesn't have the issue of wheel stealing as a common occurrence.
That coupled with not having $2k+ wheels makes me not even really worry about my wheels going missing ever.
If I did though, I'd be sitting on at least 5 different sets of locks on them.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by dostoyevsky

I would not use OEM, recently I've found the OEM lugs are the reason my fucking studs keep breaking.

I always hand tighten and use a torque wrench

Probably user error.

Considering the hundreds of thousands of Subarus out on the road with the same lug nuts you have, you'd think they break more often...

I've never had any issue with any type of OE stud/lug nut, unless I contaminated the threads somehow.

And I've owned somewhere around 150 sets of wheels across 15 cars.

-alex

[leevanf]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Probably user error.



Considering the hundreds of thousands of Subarus out on the road with the same lug nuts you have, you'd think they break more often...



I've never had any issue with any type of OE stud/lug nut, unless I contaminated the threads somehow.



And I've owned somewhere around 150 sets of wheels across 15 cars.



-alex

Any JDM lugnuts you can recommend for me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Probably user error.

Considering the hundreds of thousands of Subarus out on the road with the same lug nuts you have, you'd think they break more often...

I've never had any issue with any type of OE stud/lug nut, unless I contaminated the threads somehow.

And I've owned somewhere around 150 sets of wheels across 15 cars.

-alex

DAMN! 150 Sets of wheels!






OP, if you want JDM (and have the $$$) These are JDM A/F!!! They feature a "Full floating head which prevents scratching your wheels" . Pretty Cool!

https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...s-blue-12x125/

I have inexpensive, but super strong, gorilla lug nuts. They work great for me.

[86league]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Probably user error.

The one stud I had to replace gave me the impression that the hub centering isn't super robust and if you "crack loose" the lugs while there is significant weight on the wheels the last lug takes a ton of shear while you are loosening it and can mess up the threads.

Since I've started jacking the car up most of the way - leaving just enough weight to keep the wheel from spinning while you loosen a half turn or so, then jacking up and finishing the removal. I've not had any issue. Re-install is the same way - hand tighten, lower just enough to put a bit of weight on the tire, torque then lower fully.

For most shops that remove with an impact after the car is on the lift this wouldn't be a problem (contaminated threads still would). For DIYers doing it by hand, it seems to me to be fairly easy to cause problems unless you are careful.

Alternative would be to put something to hold the brake pedal down to keep the wheel from spinning while you take off/re-install the lugs - proper length 2x4 wedged between the seat and brake pedal works for the fronts - rear you can just use the parking brake.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by leevanf

Any JDM lugnuts you can recommend for me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

for what you're asking for, any closed lug nut will work fine for your use.

you can go with bling and get "racing lug nuts" but they just lighten your wallet.

if it's weight savings you're after, you're much better off going with as light of a tire as you can find.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by 86league

The one stud I had to replace gave me the impression that the hub centering isn't super robust and if you "crack loose" the lugs while there is significant weight on the wheels the last lug takes a ton of shear while you are loosening it and can mess up the threads.

the hub centering isn't an issue, I was swapping wheels on my BRZ about once every week (sometimes 2 or 3 times a week when I have a track event) and I never once had issues with the factory studs.

I also was one of the few that kept a rag around to wipe the threads clean after every wheel removal.

I ended up going with ARP studs not because OE studs failed on me, but because I was running 15/20mm spacers for a few months and just didn't want to use bolt-on spacers.

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by 86league

The one stud I had to replace gave me the impression that the hub centering isn't super robust and if you "crack loose" the lugs while there is significant weight on the wheels the last lug takes a ton of shear while you are loosening it and can mess up the threads.

Since I've started jacking the car up most of the way - leaving just enough weight to keep the wheel from spinning while you loosen a half turn or so, then jacking up and finishing the removal. I've not had any issue. Re-install is the same way - hand tighten, lower just enough to put a bit of weight on the tire, torque then lower fully.

For most shops that remove with an impact after the car is on the lift this wouldn't be a problem (contaminated threads still would). For DIYers doing it by hand, it seems to me to be fairly easy to cause problems unless you are careful.



Alternative would be to put something to hold the brake pedal down to keep the wheel from spinning while you take off/re-install the lugs - proper length 2x4 wedged between the seat and brake pedal works for the fronts - rear you can just use the parking brake.

If this concerns you, loosen the nuts as you jack the car up and take weight off the wheels. You'll find a sweet spot where there is just enough friction between the tire and ground to let you break the nuts loose, while limiting what weight there is on the studs. The reverse of that is the process I use to torque mine down. You can also loosen them in stages so that no one stud is ever bearing the whole clamping load and possibly being over stretched. Again, the reverse of how you should tighten them.

That's more than a little anal retentive, but I'm 65 years into my recovery from the trauma of potty training.