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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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#1 |
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Hey everyone,
I’m considering supercharging my 2013 GT86 with the Edelbrock kit to push the car to around 300whp on E85. I know superchargers add some parasitic load on the engine (300whp on turbo and 300whp on SC doesn't translate to the same amount of crank hp), so I’ve been thinking about upgrading to forged rods for added reliability. I already have an oil cooler, a baffled oil pan, a pickup tube, and a catless header, so I’m taking precautions. But I'm wondering if this is overkill at my power goals. I got a quote from Fensport in the UK (I’m in France, so it's relatively close). The parts alone (gaskets, oil, forged rods, valve springs, etc.) would cost around €2500, with labor adding another €3000. That’s a bit too expensive for me right now, especially since I’d need to get a new tune to accommodate the forged rods, even though I’m currently still NA. What I’m trying to figure out is whether this reliability upgrade is really worth it, or if I should just put on the supercharger, tune it to 300whp and hope that it doesn't blow. I’m aware that many people have run superchargers reliably without forged internals, but I've also read horror stories about engine failures, even in NA builds. I’d like to get 300whp, but if I’m only going to end up around 260-280whp (by choice, for reliability), I’m not sure if the investment (buying a superchager) is worth it. I already get a nice bump from my current setup (catless UEL header + E85) that puts me around 200whp. Here’s my situation: My current engine has 20,000 km on it, as Subaru replaced my short block after the previous one blew up at 65,000 km (I’m the third owner, and it was still NA at the time). The engine has been running fine since the replacement, aside from some detonation and loud popping noise after they replaced the block (which turned out to be a DI issue, now resolved). Another issue is that here in France, it’s quite difficult to find a used FA20 engine in the event of a failure, and if I did have a major problem, I’d likely be looking at a short block replacement that would cost me around €6,000 including labor. This makes me wonder if I should take extra precautions now or risk dealing with potential failure later on. Importing a forged block, like an IAG short block, would also be really expensive, with additional costs from shipping, taxes, and customs fees. Plus, the ongoing maintenance required for a fully forged block would make the car practically unsellable here, as potential buyers might be scared off by the upkeep involved. However, if I just go with forged rods, that would be a simpler solution — I could always just remove the supercharger and revert the car to NA if needed, which would be much easier to sell, even with the forged rods. I’m really torn because I want the car to be reliable, but spending €5,000+ on the supercharger kit feels steep for just a 60-80whp gain over my current NA setup, and 300whp doesn't seem very reliable without forged rods / block. I've seen a few people online (like Mike) with high mileage on supercharged setups, but I’ve also read many stories of engines failing, even at lower power levels. I’m just trying to figure out if the extra investment is necessary for 300whp or if it’s something I should only do down the line (assuming the engine doesn’t blow before then!). Would appreciate your thoughts! |
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#2 |
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The trouble you're going to have will stem from the incredible torque that can be generated at low RPM. High torque with low rotational speed (engine RPM) means the parts are sustaining that pressure for longer. It may seem farfetched but it's a well understood truth at this point across engines in general.
If you want better reliability at that power level and want it supercharged, a centrifugal setup like the Jackson Racing kit would suit you much better. It will have a lot less power under the curve, as the boost it generates is linked directly with RPM- this will be your saving grace. When you want the power, wring out the RPMs just like with NA. Do not change a thing with the engine, I promise it's not worth it. Spend that money on making sure you have a robust tuner and tuning platform established, like ECUTEK.
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#3 |
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Currently running 5psi on a largish turbo and I love it. Probably around ~240whp. Sounds great. Visceral feel is great. I actually enjoy the slower spool as it doesn't hit all at once and builds nicely. As darkpirate said it's making tons of torque down low which typically breaks things.
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#4 |
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Good driving habits and good maintenance are the most important parts to overall longevity.
You won't have any issues with Edelbrock long term as long as the above are combined with a good tune. I would, however, recommend Harrop over Edelbrock at this time. |
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#5 | |||
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Quote:
I’ve been thinking a lot about the JRSC C30 kit since it seems like a solid option—affordable, reliable, and easy to install. But I’m worried it might not be as “fun” for a daily driver because the power kicks in around 4500 RPM. I love downshifting and revving, but even if I do like it, I feel like I’d be under that RPM most of the time in DD. Plus, I’m not sure if it would feel as engaging without a bit of low-end torque, but I know too much torque can be bad for these engines, that's why I don't want a turbo. Quote:
Quote:
Why do you recommend the Harrop over the Edelbrock? Since I’m guessing you’ve tried both the Jackson and Edelbrock as daily drivers, would you say the Edelbrock (or Harrop) is more fun for daily use compared to the JRSC? Also, could a tuner limit my E85 tune to 300whp? At CSG, do many customers run that power long-term, or would you suggest less for reliability? Lastly, what do you consider "good driving habits"? I probably have some, e.g I try to avoid more than 50% throttle below 3500 RPM, not sure if that changes anything. I’m trying to gather as much info as possible to avoid mistakes. Sorry for all the questions, i’ve been going through the forum (and reddit (a lot )), but sometimes the answers aren’t very clear. I’m trying to gather as much info as possible to make the best decision. |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
less than 50% under 3500 RPM is a good one, as is always making sure the car is warmed up before driving, and FULLY warmed up before pushing. Also, always let the car cool down if parking after a spirited drive. Regular maintenance, and add cooling to match the additional power. Yes, power can be limited with the Harrop kit. |
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#7 |
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If you're going to be pulling the motor for any reason prior to doing FI, make sure you put in rocker retainers. It's cheap insurance.
https://denstoj.com.au/products/fa20...b55Y4wViBwNzUM
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The Following User Says Thank You to M0nk3y For This Useful Post: | RT-BRZ (10-18-2024) |
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Tags |
edelbrock, forged, reliability, rods, supercharger |
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