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#491 |
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I have a built motor and actually replaced the two intake cam sprockets initially when the motor was first put together. Now at 1100 miles i got a P0018. I did the usually OCV and cam sensor swap with same code P0018. Now i'm trying to get techstream to work to verify if my cam sprocket is working in acceptable ranges and i'm a little confused on how to download it.
also would using a ecutek OBDII connector work with techstream? When the CEL and slip lights come on, the rough idle or loss of power isn't apparent, at least to me, but i've been babying(>4000RPM) the car since i'm still in the break-in period. |
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#492 |
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In my car the loss of power was very subtle and really apparent when (legally) drag racing other similarly prepped cars. Totally driveable most of the time other than the code, but the loss of power was clear and verifiable.
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#493 |
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After around 500 miles on a new small block I decided to push the engine a bit. The car threw a P0016 and then a few days later a P000b. I ended up taking the two exhaust OCVs out, cleaned them up and one of the plungers was sticking some. I used some compressed air and electronics cleaner, then swapped the OCV positions. I drove the piss out of it and my rough idle conditions disappeared and I haven't seen a code since.
Fingers crossed! Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk EDIT: Still good after 200ish miles of some hard driving. I'm thinking the plunger just got sticky after just sitting without oil for several months while I was working on the rebuild. That or some sealant got in there from the last rebuild/valve spring recall. Last edited by demasrv; 04-25-2022 at 12:39 PM. |
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#494 |
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My brain is a little fried from 5+ hours of reading on this code so if the answer should be obvious please forgive me. I have a 2013 FRS m/t that I bought used with about 90k mi, about a year ago the engine decided to kamikaze itself driving home from work, I spent months trying to find a replacement. Found a pretty good deal on an engine/trans combo out of a 2014 FRS with about 74k mi on it. I swapped over to the replacement and started driving it, it threw the P0016 as well as P000A and P0011. After having a local mechanic take a look they said it seems fine mechanically(I doubt they checked values in ecu) I reset the codes and drove maybe 50mi over 3 days and my CEL and slip came on, but just P0016 comes up as pending/permanent/and stored.
This all leads to the question: Could blowing up my engine cause these codes to come up and now they are “burned in” on my ecu and need the “5k relearn” or is it more likely that it is caused by the new engine? Hopefully this makes as much sense as it does in my head, again I’ve been reading about this for 5+ hours on a phone so my heads pretty fried. EDIT- Not sure if anyone is still floating around this thread but to update I swapped the OCVs and checked the sensor. The sensor was definitely dirty so I cleaned that up and will be test driving tomorrow. EDIT PT 2(P0016 boogaloo)- Cleaned sensor, cleared codes, drove for about 80mi so far and no more codes. Last edited by Doof_FRS; 12-09-2022 at 08:19 AM. |
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#495 |
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2013 FRS here
P0018 code Tried swapping sensors left to right, code remained P0018. After reading all day on this the next plan is to swap in new cam gears and ECU. Can someone confirm my shopping list? Intake Cam sprockets: Part Number: 13320AA070 Part Number: 13322AA080 ECU: 22765AG511 |
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#496 |
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This thread has been deader than dirt for a while but thank you to everyone that shared their experience. I have now also been blessed with the cursed p0016 and spent about a week reading this thread, learned a lot from @Ultramaroon and @rusty959
I have been on JDL Turbo (tuned by James Martin), 5w 30 oil for around 7 years now with no issues whatsoever but a wire that was partially consumed by heat. There seem to be a lot of correlations with certain factors from others in this thread. I also got the code around 60k, during cold weather, near the end of oil life, car runs completely fine. The only noticeable symptom for me, besides loss of power, is that the RPMs will shoot down close to 500 and near stall when shifting gears, usually when going into 1st and it feels like it's “easier” to stall the car. This was going on well before the code. Could this directly point out the sprocket? Based on experiences in this thread, if there is most likely nothing wrong with the timing itself like the code suggests (sounds intimidating when first reading that), then it sounds like there is really no critical concern with the car besides loss of power. The most I’ll do is oil change, clean/swap sensors/OCVs, clear/flash with ECUtek. If it comes back after that I’m just going to a subaru known performance shop I know and let them find the mechanical issue first before I do anything with the ECU. Which is what makes this whole thing such a damn hassle. The ECU. I understand there’s a write up on switching ECUs but how much of a hassle is it to go back to the ECUtek tune on the former ECU to the new one?
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#497 |
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#498 |
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p0016 is probably just an OCV
they are relatively cheap new, change them, maybe just 2 at time to spend less for now about a new ecu i do not see the necessity but in case you ll need a new ecutek license and you ll need the .bin file that was flashed into the ecu you have right now, no real hassle just expensive because of new license you ll also probably need techstream to set a VIN into the new ecu before buying a new license anyway just replace OCVs |
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#499 | |
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