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#15 | |
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Just leave it. 5yr/60k powertrain warranty. If it's going to happen, it's going to happen well within that period.
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challenge accepted. gonna drive it even harder now!
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#17 |
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Very valid point. As Rusty mentioned, drive it like you stole it and make sure the oil is changed at the dealer for service records.
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I keep receipts, pictures and full documentation every time I change my oil. I'd rather not have to drive an hour and a half to get Subaru to change it. |
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#20 | |
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I can do it during the week, and log on to their WiFi and keep "working" and essentially get a few hours out of the home office.
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#21 | ||
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I knew some examples of this oil pan back for the Zenki generations saw the accumulation of the RTV near the edges of the oil pan. Guaranteed, if the Robot/Dispense gantry did not align itself to the dispense pattern for the BRZ/GR86 pan then you would see the accumulation of RTV on the interior of the oil pan or on the outer edge towards the screw holes. How much RTV you see dispensed in that strainer portion of the oil recirculation piping means the pattern REALLY got messed up from changeover, robot programming sequence, or just a dispense head malfunction. How that went through VI or QC means that Subaru will add some inspection for that dispense process now. 0km reviews are going to be a big discussion for Subaru if there are these examples of misplaced RTV. |
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They ought to go back to plain old paper or cork gaskets. They might leak but they never get sucked in to the oil pump.
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Can you access the rear oil pan bolts without lifting the engine on these cars? Just did a KillerB oil pan swap on a 2019 STI last weekend and what a PITA, even though I've done it in the past.
To those talking about dropping the pan to inspect, I would try a boroscope the next time you do an oil change first. Might create more problems than you solve by dropping the pan yourself and having to reinstall with fresh gasket maker. There's an important sweet spot on how much sealant to use (obviously, given the topic of this thread). |
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#25 | |
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no need to lift engine, dropping Pan requires dropping the OEM header. Simple job in a garage. Just need a 24hr cure.
The best consensus technique I believe is to spread the RTV with your fingers so that its a thin layer across the mating surface on the pan and not leave it beaded it up. @Opie got told by Subaru that they were not selling short blocks and saving them for repair. Maybe they already knew something was up earlier this year. Quote:
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Hey at least they're color coding the RTV to tell you where its from
![]() drive it hard and document those oil changes! Bathtub failure curve baby |
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One, why do they all look like a coiled snake? Shouldn't they look like small and medium bits of random crap? I mean, I guess I can imagine that a HUGE bead would create overflow beads on both the inside and outside of the pan and that eventually it just all comes off at one time together (or slowly, over time, gets sucked into the intake in one piece). But in that case, shouldn't the tech see the excess on the outside of the pan and flag it? So, are these cases where the robot puts the bead too far to the inside of the pan making the overflow bead almost entirely on the inside? Second, why wouldn't the other four sides of the strainer provide enough flow to prevent catastrophic engine failure? Is it a case where 90% of the flow comes through the bottom/top of the strainer? |
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Or too much. In the case of the oil pan if the bead is squished out the whole chunk drops into the oil pan without getting chewed up by any moving parts. Here’s a crappy FIPG job done by a Toyota tech who “doesn’t build crap engines.” …he built a crap engine. ![]()
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