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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 01-21-2021, 12:40 PM   #15
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There are a few things to consider, but don't hesitate to reach out to us via e-mail too. This can get lengthy as we prepare your car specifically to what you're looking for.
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Old 01-21-2021, 12:55 PM   #16
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2015 coil packs are worth it IMO. Can be retrofitted pretty easily though if you don't mind soldering. Or a little more difficult if you just buy the conversion harness (intake manifold has to be removed to swap harnesses).

Stock suspension at the track is fine, but you'll find yourself wanting an upgrade pretty quickly if you really track the car. In our 86 fleet we've run multiple sets of @Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 2's which are great for the money, Eibach Multi-Pro R2 which are good at used prices, but would not suggest new and @CounterSpace Garage spec Tein SRCs. We've also driven on other sets, JRZ and MCS are both nice setups when tuned correctly (2 way or higher). IMO the Tarmac 2's are a good "entry level" track suspension. If you want less than that, the Fortune Auto's with swift springs are nice as well. I'm sure others will post other options but that's what our little group here in Florida suggests. (note, that entry level part isn't an insult, just the minimum I'd suggest for a more serious track car. T3's are better and of course the several $5k+ sets of dampers out there... most of our cars are actually running T2s)
I would add that you'd want to prefer MCS 2-Way Remotes if you're looking at a 2 way within MCS's lineup. Even then, their OTS valving has way too much compression and it required a rebuild/revalve to get mine spcifically dialed in. JRZ's compression is off the charts so it seems.
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Old 01-21-2021, 12:57 PM   #17
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I would add that you'd want to prefer MCS 2-Way Remotes if you're looking at a 2 way within MCS's lineup. Even then, their OTS valving has way too much compression and it required a rebuild/revalve to get mine spcifically dialed in. JRZ's compression is off the charts so it seems.
Who doesn't custom valve? I usually prefer to buy used and just get them rebuilt/revalved right away to save the $$... shrug. I didn't on the SRCs since they were freshly redone already though.
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Old 01-21-2021, 01:10 PM   #18
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I will pretty much mirror what everyone has said here. My only difference is don't fear a 2013 if the condition/price is right. Mine is a 2013 on stock drivetrain, I elected to not have the Valve Spring recall done unless I actually experience the issue. Car runs great...it has been converted to the 2015 coil packs & harness.

Ask me any quesstions you may have, @Dave-ROR & I usually have cars available if you're looking for one. Can build to your request.
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Old 01-21-2021, 01:25 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
Who doesn't custom valve? I usually prefer to buy used and just get them rebuilt/revalved right away to save the $$... shrug. I didn't on the SRCs since they were freshly redone already though.
People who are logical with their wallets and don't buy new MCS shocks like me lol

+1 on the revalve though. Makes a world of a difference once you know your operating limits and where you want to be (once you're on the end of the knife finding tenths)
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Old 01-21-2021, 02:10 PM   #20
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So coming from a long history of 2 wheel road racing and track days I want to dip my toes in the water in doing some track days\HPDE etc on 4 wheels. Because of numerous get-offs on multiple bikes I have ZERO interest in competition. I just want to get my speed fix on pushing it to the limit. I donít need a crap ton of HP Iíd be happier squeezing every ounce of performance. My old racing buddy is picking up a Miata and I decided on BRZ\FR-S because Iím not a short guy and I donít want to rip the seat out and bolt a race bucket to the floor.

All of that being said, I want as close to a turn key track car as I can. I want it street legal but it wonít be driven much if at all. So my questions are:

For a turn key low maintenance ride what car\year would you choose and why?

Is there a huge disadvantage to the 2013-2014 with the coil pack problems? How much would it be to run 2015 coilpacks\harnesses\whatever else is needed? Other than cutting a hole in my roof and not being able to drive in the rain, would hood vents alleviate the problem?

Other than a throw out bearing issue and coil pack issue, is there anything else to worry about on a 2013-2014?

As a casual track junkie will the improved suspension on the BRZ be noticeable over the FR-S?

Any other thoughts from this vast well of knowledge you guys can throw at me?
2017+ performance package.

Add camber modification, oil cooler, race pads, good fluids, and you're ready to go with zero other work, and relatively low maintenance.

Modify to taste later, if desired.
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Old 01-21-2021, 04:35 PM   #21
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That is a lot of information in a short time so I really appreciate it guys. This is exactly what I was looking for. It's definitely a bit of an adjustment coming from the sport bike world but I'm definitely stoked to give it a try in the coming weeks. I'm just happy to hear that it's a durable platform to work with. I can certainly go nuts once I'm in fully junkie mode but at least trying it out, I'm not worried I'm gonna blow it up the first time out (ask me about my first session at VIR on a brand new Ducati 848...)

So what I took away from this:
Basic stuff like new pads and fluid
Get a 15 if the price isn't that bad to avoid the coil pack issue
Oil cooler is a good idea
If you get a 13 check the recall (I read a lot about that on other threads and it's frightening)

Down the road at least a little bit:
Camber bolts\plates, tires, wheels, umbrella girl, etc... etc... etc...

I've bought stuff from MachV way way WAY back in the day for my 3000GT and DSM but that's a good idea on the PPI.

I might hit up @Dave-ROR or @Opie so I appreciate that as well.
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Old 01-21-2021, 06:53 PM   #22
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Mach V also has plenty of BRZ track experience and puts on a good local track day series! Good people.

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Old 01-21-2021, 11:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZDan View Post
Off-the-shelf name-brand parts-store DOT4 or DOT5.1 will be fine...
I'd worry more about getting pads more trackworthy than stockers.
I 100% disagree.
Pad fade can be felt coming on and can be managed.
I've had that many times, and it's not such a big deal.
Sure, one does need better pads, but that's not critical for track day #1

Brake fluid boil is a dramatic failure and very dangerous.
Been there, done that, thought I knew better, but I didn't...
It's a mistake you only make once, but better to avoid making it at all.
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Old 01-22-2021, 03:16 AM   #24
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I 100% disagree.
Pad fade can be felt coming on and can be managed.
I've had that many times, and it's not such a big deal.
Sure, one does need better pads, but that's not critical for track day #1

Brake fluid boil is a dramatic failure and very dangerous.
Been there, done that, thought I knew better, but I didn't...
It's a mistake you only make once, but better to avoid making it at all.
How the hell can you 100% disagree? He said DOT4 or 5.1 off the shelf brake fluid is fine! that`s 50% of your post for a start. Also if you have shit pads and you are new to a car and track you will be a brake cooker. If your pads are also thin they will fade suddenly, unless you track slowly
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Old 01-22-2021, 03:34 AM   #25
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My how we forget the knocking tune and DI seal failure on the '13 cars... But 06/13 is well past the updated tune date so, two birds.
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Old 01-22-2021, 08:08 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jstyle View Post
So what I took away from this:
Basic stuff like new pads and fluid
Get a 15 if the price isn't that bad to avoid the coil pack issue
Oil cooler is a good idea
If you get a 13 check the recall (I read a lot about that on other threads and it's frightening)

Down the road at least a little bit:
Camber bolts\plates, tires, wheels, umbrella girl, etc... etc... etc...
IMO more front camber is kind of a "must" for handling balance and tire life. Camber bolts are cheap/easy. Could also get offset strut upper mounts for a bit more, still minimal $$$. Get more serious you'll probably want more, but be aware many camber plates will lose you some bump travel, which can be a problem if lowered...

Also IMO, oil cooler for "casual" HPDE track usage not necessary. Oil temps in my case go to 272F and hold, not an issue with good 5w30 synth and frequent changes.

Enjoy
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Old 01-22-2021, 09:10 AM   #27
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Your in good hands. Be careful going down the rabbit hole to start. I would just avoid 13's. I would second if you have the cash for a PP BRZ as it's a great starting point.

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Old 01-22-2021, 09:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fish Eagle View Post
I 100% disagree.
With what? The idea that OTS name-brannd DOT4 and DOT5.1 are perfectly fine for the vast majority of those who track these cars? No benefit to getting more expensive fluids

Quote:
Pad fade can be felt coming on and can be managed.
I've had that many times, and it's not such a big deal.
Sure, one does need better pads, but that's not critical for track day #1
There are different kinds of pad fade, some of which can be, erm, surprising...
Better pads are a good idea even for a newb. Which pads work best will have to be figured out though, as it's very driver-dependent. But stockers are a known weak point, at the very least it's a lot more fun to be able to brake hard all through every session, all day long.

Quote:
Brake fluid boil is a dramatic failure and very dangerous.
Been there, done that, thought I knew better, but I didn't...
It's a mistake you only make once, but better to avoid making it at all.
And with reasonably fresh name-brand parts-store DOT4 or DOT5.1, almost all of us who track are gonna be fine. No need for $$$ 600+F fluid.
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