Wheel stud replacement

[bpracer]

Using the tool suggested by jdrxb9 post below, I was a bit overzealous removing all the studs from my rear hub to install my 10mm Ichiba spacer kit.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...58&postcount=4

In a previous email IchibaUSA told me the kit would contain 50mm studs. When the kit arrived, it had 40mm studs. I thought they were still longer than the stock studs by a good margin, but as we see in the attached photos, that is not the case.

The harbor freight tool is good for a few studs but may not work much beyond the 10 studs I need to remove. (I've only done one hub at the moment)

Tool prep-
The fork on the tool needs to be opened up slightly, a file would work but a right angle grinder with a flap wheel is much faster. Also, it would be good to shorten the forks a bit to hit the fulcrum in the sweet spot of the tool. Be sure to use a good grease on the tool threads or it will self-destruct faster.

So... I removed all the studs on one hub and then of course ran in to problems. It became obvious when I compared the stock studs and the included "40mm" studs in the Ichiba kit. They are too short.

Well, no problem, Vorshlag Motorsports is 2 miles from my house and they sell a very nice "65mm" stud for these cars.

Hmmm, there is no way to feed the longer stud in the back of the hub. Thought about drilling a hole in the backing plate to feed them through and then put a rubber plug in the hole. No joy, there doesn't seem to be a way to do that. Crap!

So in the end, I installed the "40mm" studs in the hub, they are 5mm longer than stock so they will fill up my open, light weight, Vorshlag lugnuts.

Under head length of all the studs are:

Stock (rear) stud: 43mm
40mm Ichiba: 48mm
50mm Ichiba: 58mm
Vorshlagl 65mm: 60mm but with rounded end, really 58mm of thread.

The vorshlag stud is a nice piece, it has as undercut radius btween the back of the stud head and the start of knurl area. All the aftermarket stuff had slightly smaller diameter knurl. I don't have an ARP stud to compare.

Using the stack of washer method to install was very easy, perhaps too easy given the smaller knurl diameter. We shall see. The 40mm stud without any space just about fills up the threads of my open lug nuts.

I'll see how Ichiba responds to my query.

Pictures below:
1) stock studs beside the Ichiba 40mm stud, should be taller
2) stock studs with my open lug nuts
3) using the ball joint separator with a sacrificed stock lugnut

[bpracer]

My second attempt at installing longer rear wheel studs wasn't so bad. Once I saw a picture of a replacement wheel bearing the task looked pretty simple.

First comment - Ichiba wheel studs are not good for this application, The knurl area is not big enough diameter to bite effectively. It basically just took a tap of a hammer to drive out the ones I first installed. Not good.

The Vorshlag studs are a bit larger in diameter though not quite as much as the stock studs. However their knurl area extends in to virgin territory of the hole in the flange. I assume ARP studs are good stuff, but the Vorshlag stuff works well for 10-12mm spacer.

Items needed:

Modified punch
10mm socket
14mm wrench/socket
32mm socket
Breaker bar/torque wrench
Press or Harbor Freight ball joint separator
Hammer
Floor Jack
Jack stand(s)

Jack the rear up via the differential.

Take the wheel tire off. Set the emergency brake and chock the front wheel. Use jack stands if you have them, but I didn't bother.

You need to take the "dimple" out of the 32mm axle bolt. This took a bit of work. I ground flat on a 3/16" punch to expand the crimp back to near the original diameter. You may need a very small chisel or screw driver to get under the crimp at first.

Use a breaker bar and loosen the axle nut. Just break it loose, don't remove it yet. It will take about 100-120 ft-lbs, really not that much. If the emergency brake won't hold, put a wheel back on without the center cap and lower it back on the ground and try again. I didn't have to do this.

Remove the wheel speed sensor with a 10mm socket from the top of the hub.

Remove the caliper using a 14mm wrench or socket. Support it with a jack stand so the brake lie doesn't stretch.

Release the parking brake.

Remove the rotor, it should come off easily with a few taps.

Remove the four 14mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing assembly in place. The brake backing plate is sandwiched between the rear upright and the wheel bearing assembly.

At his point, back the axle nut off. The backing plate and bearing will probably pull out together.

Wiggle the bearing passed the brake assembly.

Now remove the studs. I was going to use a vise and a socket but there is very little room between the stud head and the bearing to get a socket in there. I used the Harbor Freight ball joint separator. This tool take a bit of prep to allow it to work. the fork needs to be shortened and the the gap between the tines enlarged just a bit. (see picture)

I tapped on the stud remover with a hammer after there was some initial tension. Your not beating on the bearing so it is no big deal.

Install the new studs using a stack of washer and a flat nut, I flipped over one of my lug nuts so it had a bit of flat bearing surface. Be sure to apply some oil or anti-size on the stud thread to prevent galling the threads.

Re-assemble in the opposite order.

I re-torqued the axle nut back to its original "dimple" position and re-punched the dimple.

Go for a short drive, then re-torque the lug nuts. Mine didn't move. I don't know why the stock lug nut torque is so high. I use copper anti-seize and only torque to 65ft-lbs.

With a 10mm spacer the Vorshlag studs are flush with the end of the Vorshlag lug nuts. The nuts aren't pretty, but they are light "bulge nut" and only use a 17mm socket. (see picture)

This will take about 3-4 hours, the second side took an hour as the previously installed Ichiba studs took no effort to remove.

[King Tut]

Great write up. I didn't realize it was that easy to unbolt the rear hubs. I will probably be doing this soon with some ARP studs.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Great write up. I didn't realize it was that easy to unbolt the rear hubs. I will probably be doing this soon with some ARP studs.

Same here.

I'll have to look but usually you can just zip off those axle nuts without removing the dimple first, that's how I've always done it anyways I'm ghetto though.

[track_warrior]

Will be using this thread shortly. Thanks Dave!!

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by pcasso87

Will be using this thread shortly. Thanks Dave!!

I will finally get to the rear studs next weekend probably.. I've been slacking

[track_warrior]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I will finally get to the rear studs next weekend probably.. I've been slacking

Dave, what nuts did you use on the studs?

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by pcasso87

Dave, what nuts did you use on the studs?

I use both some cheap pep boys open ended 19mm lugnuts and some project kics R40s I got from @No Limit Motorsport.

I used a press for the install if you meant that, but if I were to use lugnuts to seat the stud they'd be the cheapest I could find.. or just stock ones with a ton of washers.

Thread pitch is normal Subaru (M12x1.25 IIRC)

[Dave-ROR]

I did the rears yesterday. BPracer's directions are spot on. I held the drum brake with one of the axle bolts while replacing the studs. Also, you don't need to remove the dimple from the axle nut, it'll remove itself and the area it rides on isn't threaded, I just impact those axle nuts off.

Also, axle nut torque is 136ft-lbs, maybe 137. I did 140 just because I like round numbers.

A buddy took some pics with his phone (forgot my camera, well i thought it was in my laptop bag, it's not.. no idea where it's at) but they suck so I didn't bother posting them. I can if people want them but it's pretty easy/obvious once you get in there.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

A buddy took some pics with his phone (forgot my camera, well i thought it was in my laptop bag, it's not.. no idea where it's at) but they suck so I didn't bother posting them. I can if people want them but it's pretty easy/obvious once you get in there.

I always like more pics.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I always like more pics.

Ugh.. fine I'll see what pics I have.

[post_break]

The ARP studs were impossible to press in (for us), and in the service manual it specifically states you should only use the washer method to put the new studs in. However, people have been using a press for ages so what do they know.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by post_break

The ARP studs were impossible to press in (for us), and in the service manual it specifically states you should only use the washer method to put the new studs in. However, people have been using a press for ages so what do they know.

I was able to easily press in the fronts, but the rears didn't have enough access so they were going in at an angle. Ended up with the ball joint tool method documented above instead.

[rice_classic]

Great thread, thank you Dave.